Dinitrol

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Stusledge

New Member
Posts
5
Location
Suffolk
Hi everyone
Can any of you guys recommend a Dinitrol centre or someone that does Dinitrol either in Suffolk or close to Suffolk please?
 
Sorry I don't know of any outlet within your geographical boundary, but be warned though there are an awful lot of cowboys in this business.
Of particular concern should be any operative that advertises a one day turn around. The usual approach is to steam clean the vehicle prior to applying the protection, but the motor MUST be completely dry first & to achieve that requires both time (usually overnight) & effective drying equipment.
I wish you luck in your search.
 
Plus 1 ^^^^^^^^^

@Stusledge , hi, have u thought about doing the work urself

I have a D3 and has had Dinitrol treatment , indeed as mentioned the chassis needs to be properly steamed cleaned, any loose bits on the chassis sanded off etc

Took me weeks to get all the little bits off, plus there’s been some terrible jobs reported here from so called experts

if u go onto the Dinitrol there should be a company , then if ur unsure post the details here as someone may have heard of them , always best for feedback etc inc checking out reviews

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few piccies and hope that helps
 
Plus, plse quickly pop over to the introduction area and tell us abit about urself

check list of questions to ask companies

Steam Cleaning

Make sure that the treatment provider will fully steam clean the underbody after removing underbody plastic protective guard covers. The provider must have a dedicated facility to thoroughly clean the underbody.


Suitable Vehicle Drying Area

Check the treatment provider has a suitable area for drying. The vehicle must be completely dry prior to commencing any treatment applications.


Will the vehicle dry over night

Ask if the car will be allowed to dry overnight before any treatment applications are applied.


Professional Equipment

Make sure that the provider is using professional application equipment. Rustproofing specialists use a spray gun feeding from a barrel rather than aerosols or 1 litre schutz cans that are mainly associated with D.I.Y. applications.


Genuine DINITROL® Products

Ask the provider to confirm that only genuine DINITROL® products will be used throughout the treatment process (This is a very important point to check make sure genuine DINITROL® products are found onsite).


Visit the Premises

Visit the premises of the treatment provider, prior to proceeding with the application and check the facilities are a professional working environment whilst also appearing clean and tidy.


Photo Documentation

Request photo documentation of the treatment process from start to finish and along with proof that all plastic underbody guards have been removed prior to cleaning. Also, ask the provider to document any significant areas that have required additional treatment for example rust being treated with a converter.


Watch the Treatment

Don’t be afraid to ask if you can visit the premises when the rustproofing treatments are being applied to your vehicle. This allows you to check the progress and professionalism of the work being conducted.


Vehicle Spray Diagrams

When speaking with the treatment provider ensure they are using spray diagrams that are specific to your vehicle manufacturer model. The treatment provider should use a spray diagram to locate the access points around the vehicle, so they can safely apply cavity wax products without damaging sensors.


10. Be suspicious of Cheap Quotes


Be suspicious of unrealistic cheap quotations, a proper treatment carried out by professionals takes time and therefore warrants a cost. Any quotes below £400 for a passenger car should be considered suspiciously low.
 
I just buy the Dinitrol products off their website and put it on myself. The advantages of doing your own are that you can allow adequate drying time between cleaning and application. It's difficult to get the insides of the box sections spotlessly clean, but applying the nozzle of a pressure washer to all the holes helps. Even in a warm climate it'll take a week to dry out inside. Fortunately the thin runny Dinitrol penetrates very well, so it'll soak through a little dust, but you won't get the benefit of it if the chassis is still wet inside. Also, if doing your own you can do a nice neat job like @gstuart above and not plaster all the electrical connectors and bits that you'll need to get off to service as might happen in a hasty garage job where time is money. Also if doing your own you can touch it up when needed. For little jobs I don't bother to get the compressor out, I just use a brush for the thick stuff and a hand spray bottle for the thin stuff. That way, when ever you take a bracket off the chassis, or take out a removable crossmember you can get some Dinitrol goodness on the mating faces before it goes back together. That'll stop water doing any damage when it hangs around in the crack between the components. The other thing you can do if you do it yourself is take care of areas where there are layers of sheet metal spot welded together, such as on the rear crossmember or parts of the bulkhead. Water gets in between the layers and rust forms and forces them apart. So after a warm dry spell of weather I get plenty of thin runny ML stuff on the edges of fabrications like that, so it soaks into the cracks, before giving it a final protective coat of their 4941. I don't suppose many garages would bother to do that. Oh, and you can spray ML up through the drain holes in the bottoms of the doors. I've managed to keep my door frames intact and they're 14 years old now. Many have rusted away by that age. Again, something that a lot of commercial providers probably wouldn't bother to do.
 
Hi @Brown

many thks for the kind words , indeed does take a lot of time preparing, plus of course , model dependent , wheel arch liners , would have driven me insane if I had sprayed over wires in the wheel-arches, inc sensors , etc

on the D3 there’s plenty of drainage holes so in that token handy places to access the inside of the chassis , inc the skin of the body

was an air gun with the 1 x litre cans for inside and outside of chassis , the rattle cans for the wheelarches

used a trigger type fun for the cans

all down to looking after ur pride of joy

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Yes, that's the sort of problem I'm talking about. Somebody's given it a quick blow over from underneath, so it's missed a lot of nooks and crannies, and achieved only very limited penetration into the box sections. Meanwhile, nuts, bolts, suspension components and brakes seem to have had a very generous dose indeed, which makes future maintenance more difficult. I've not used masking like you but I try and keep the spray off electrical connectors and nuts and bolts I may need to undo in future. I'm not blaming commercial people, but time is money to them and they've got a living to earn and this limits the amount of time they can spend on each job.
 
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