dilema

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andy 0352

New Member
Posts
507
Location
co.durham
whats the best option to renew a rear crank oil seal,on a 2000 v8 vogue.
basicly im on my own doing this so am i better of trying to remove the gearbox,or strip and lift the engine out and renew it,i would have probably put it in a garage,but im not paying £400 to fit a £5 seal,any serious suggestions other than petroland a match
cheers
andy
 
Depends on the facilities you have Andy. If you have access to a hoist, then it would be more accessible and easier, especially if a transmission jack is available, to remove the gearbox and leave the engine in. However, when you are lying on your back underneath and trying to manouver such a large lump it's a different ball game. O.K. you have gravity to help when it's coming out but lying down and trying to lift it back in is a lot harder. Personally, I would opt for the engine out with an engine crane-more controllable, plus if you decide to check the engine over, it's more accessible and you can be sure that you can replace gaskets etc. easily. You could have the engine out in a day and allow another day for refit, so that will give some idea of how long you would need the crane for. Plus of course, the length of time to do the seal and any other bits & bobs. If you find the seal journal on the crank is scored don't worry-you can fit a shaft repair sleeve easily. Google Barnwell Services in Smethwick, West Midlands for more info. It will pay you to drop the rear main bearing cap and renew the "Crucifix" rubber seals which fit in the sides of the cap. Also check the flywheel drive plate for cracks (Common). One thing is for sure, it will keep you busy!!:behindsofa:
 
hi john well i can have the use of a 1 ton engine hoist,so im now going to price up some parts,im thinking if i replace the crucifix seals,i may as well do all the bearings along with the sump gasket rear crank seal and driveplate,and maybe chuck some new tappets in,im just wondering wether to lift the block in one lump with just the intake manifolds removed,or by a head kit and strip the heads of to make it easier on myself ??? and some decent wether
 
Andy, if you have access to a crane for a few days, your halfway there. When I changed my 4.6 a couple of years ago, I thought I would strip the heads off-what a job!!-problem was removing the exhaust manifold heatshields to get at the manifold bolts-right pain for access especially on the r.h. one, plus the heatshield screws are solid and will probably have to be cut off. Undo the downpipe/manifold nuts, remove the inlet manifold etc. and lift it out with the heads on. To get access to the top bellhousing bolts, remove the coil pack, undo the front engine mountings and remove them with the engine supported on a jack you can then lower the engine for better access to the top bellhousing bolts which may well be 3/8 UNC and will need a 9/16A/F spanner. Undo the aircon compressor and tie out of the way with the hoses attached. The rocker shafts and rockers are prone to wear on the V8 and are well worth while stripping & checking-cheap enough to replace, as are the tappets, check the pattern on the tappets where they contact the camshaft. Just shout if you want more info..been there, done that, got the T shirt!!:smokin:
 
luckily i did the head gaskets in decemeber,and every thing came out ok apart from 2 exhaust manifold bolts which snapped,but as the heads were sent away for skimming they were drilled and retapped so luckily i know most of it will come apart,the only main thing im concerned about is security as i,ll be doing it on the driveway,as my mate got rid of his lockup so it might end up being a long day and night
 
I did an engine change on a Classic a few years ago, outside and in the middle of winter. Rigged up a polythene canopy on the gable end of the house back in the UK by screwing a batten to the wall and fixing the sheet to that-lot warmer than being in the open and not so windy. One thing though-at least the motor will be 100% immobilised!!
 
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