Diesel or Petrol?

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Q

Quagga.R.T.M

Guest
OK,

I'm the guy who wants to buy a Landover & I know nothing about them.

Should I buy a diesel or a petrol?

Pros & cons?

Thanks


 
Quagga.R.T.M <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> OK,
>
> I'm the guy who wants to buy a Landover & I know nothing about them.
>
> Should I buy a diesel or a petrol?
>
> Pros & cons?
>
> Thanks

Really it depends on the type of Landrover you buy and what sort of engine
it has.

;-)

Lee D


 
On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 21:02:27 GMT, "Quagga.R.T.M"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>OK,
>
>I'm the guy who wants to buy a Landover & I know nothing about them.
>
>Should I buy a diesel or a petrol?
>
>Pros & cons?
>
>Thanks
>

Not much difference in fuel consumption in reality, and as a hobby
truck you won't be doing thousands of miles. So economy is probably
neither here nor there.

I'd say petrols are easy to maintain and fiddle with (I've had both,
and kept the petrol one). Yes, there's quite a few bits in the
ignition system, but it's all easy to fix at home. The diesel fuel
system is pretty reliable, but the injector pump is not an easy thing
to maintain yourself.

My diesel was a complete slug - wouldn't top 50 mph. Sounds bearable,
but in reality it was a real pain in the neck. My petrol, when it
goes at all, will cruise the M1 behind the artics very happily.

Diesel comes into its own in deep water and in deepest Africa. With
no electrics to drown it will go much deeper. And diesel is probably
easier to find in the back of beyond.

For me, petrol every time. YMMV!

--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'03 Volvo V70
'06 Nissan Navara aka "The Truck"
 
my petrol series never did more than about 18mpg. the tdi can get up to 30mpg. and its faster than the 2.25 petrol series by miles.

the disco never fails to start, plus i can run mine on veggie oil!

ps. they must have slow artics in your area.
:)
 
On 2006-04-23, Quagga.R.T.M <[email protected]> wrote:

> Should I buy a diesel or a petrol?

Depends on the age of truck you're buying. The early diesels (pre
200TDi) were either sluggish or unreliable compared to the petrols,
but from the 200TDi onwards they had bags of torque and were very
strong. Early 300TDi engines had a few well-known and easily
rectified faults, once fixed they're very good engines. They can also
be easily upgraded with things like larger intercoolers.

So pre-200TDi, petrol is yer best bet, but from 200TDi onwards then I
reckon diesels win out. Lots of torque, they handle the damp, and you
don't end up as one of those rev-happy dorks at pay-and-play sites who
spin their wheels all over the place and shower everyone with diff
teeth.

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 
In message <[email protected]>, Ian Rawlings
<[email protected]> writes
>On 2006-04-23, Quagga.R.T.M <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Should I buy a diesel or a petrol?
>
>Depends on the age of truck you're buying. The early diesels (pre
>200TDi) were either sluggish or unreliable compared to the petrols,
>but from the 200TDi onwards they had bags of torque and were very
>strong. Early 300TDi engines had a few well-known and easily
>rectified faults, once fixed they're very good engines. They can also
>be easily upgraded with things like larger intercoolers.
>
>So pre-200TDi, petrol is yer best bet, but from 200TDi onwards then I
>reckon diesels win out. Lots of torque, they handle the damp, and you
>don't end up as one of those rev-happy dorks at pay-and-play sites who
>spin their wheels all over the place and shower everyone with diff
>teeth.
>
I'd definitely second that. Over the years I've driven a fair few
different LR products, and, pre-200tdi I'd go for petrol every time.
200tdi or later it's a closer thing, depending on product.
Defender/Disco, I'd go for diesel, RR - the biggest V8 petrol you can
get ;-)

Will
--
lancre dot net - The personal domain of Will and Cath Wilkinson.
Send e-mail to news dot will at lancre dot net
'98 300Tdi Defender 110 CSW, 1/12th NB Sometimes
PGP Fingerprint E089 1736 A023 9E5C AFA3 0B40 E5DC D80A 9E1F D521
Public key can be obtained from ldap://certserver.pgp.com
 
On 2006-04-23, Will Wilkinson <[email protected]> wrote:

> RR - the biggest V8 petrol you can get ;-)

I was out today with a V8 rangie, my petrol pinz, and a diesel disco,
rangie conked out in a ford that didn't reach up much higher than the
top third of the wheels. He got out of the ford OK but when he came
off the throttle it died and we had to spend 15 minutes or so
fiddle-arsing around with WD40 to get it to go again. It was fine
afterwards but I'd not like to get a V8 wet if I could avoid it, I've
seen too many conk out or run like dogs once you get them wet.

You can of course water-proof a petrol but what with the fuel
consumption it doesn't seem worth it. Diesel is safer too, if you get
a tank split it's not so much of a worry.

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 
Ian Rawlings wrote:

|| The early diesels (pre
|| 200TDi) were either sluggish or unreliable compared to the petrols,
|| but from the 200TDi onwards they had bags of torque and were very
|| strong.

Just a word in defence of the 2.5 n/a diesel - they are pretty reliable,
otherwise the army wouldn't have specified them for so long, and I always
found mine acceptable in traffic. No fireball, but able to keep up. The
2.5 turbo has the bad reputation.

--
Rich
==============================

I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one.


 

"Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ian Rawlings wrote:
>
> || The early diesels (pre
> || 200TDi) were either sluggish or unreliable compared to the petrols,
> || but from the 200TDi onwards they had bags of torque and were very
> || strong.
>
> Just a word in defence of the 2.5 n/a diesel - they are pretty reliable,
> otherwise the army wouldn't have specified them for so long, and I always
> found mine acceptable in traffic. No fireball, but able to keep up. The
> 2.5 turbo has the bad reputation.
>
> --
> Rich
> ==============================
>
> I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one.

I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As
and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the
woodruff key on the crankshaft, result being a mangled bottom pulley, keyway
and also if you are unlucky timing pulley and the result of valves and
pistons connecting.
Mostly seem to be on rebuilt engines anyone else?
Derek
Disco Tdi200- busy writing a parts list for the weekend.


 

"Derek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Ian Rawlings wrote:
>>
>> || The early diesels (pre
>> || 200TDi) were either sluggish or unreliable compared to the petrols,
>> || but from the 200TDi onwards they had bags of torque and were very
>> || strong.
>>
>> Just a word in defence of the 2.5 n/a diesel - they are pretty reliable,
>> otherwise the army wouldn't have specified them for so long, and I always
>> found mine acceptable in traffic. No fireball, but able to keep up. The
>> 2.5 turbo has the bad reputation.
>>
>> --
>> Rich
>> ==============================
>>
>> I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one.
>
> I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As
> and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the
> woodruff key on the crankshaft, result being a mangled bottom pulley,
> keyway and also if you are unlucky timing pulley and the result of valves
> and pistons connecting.
> Mostly seem to be on rebuilt engines anyone else?
> Derek
> Disco Tdi200- busy writing a parts list for the weekend.
>
tightened mine with an impact gun, looks ok


 
jOn <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
> "Derek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As
>> and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the
>> woodruff key on the crankshaft, result being a mangled bottom pulley,
>> keyway and also if you are unlucky timing pulley and the result of
>> valves and pistons connecting.
>> Mostly seem to be on rebuilt engines anyone else?
>> Derek
>> Disco Tdi200- busy writing a parts list for the weekend.
>>
> tightened mine with an impact gun, looks ok

Tom where are you? Tom has a rebuilt Sherpa Diesel 2.5..... If any one does
any lanes between Oswestry and Bala and sees a crank pulley bolt and
keyshaft I'm sure Tom would appreciate them back.

Lee


 
On Mon, 24 Apr 2006 21:35:54 GMT, "Derek"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As
>and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the
>woodruff key on the crankshaft, result being a mangled bottom pulley, keyway
>and also if you are unlucky timing pulley and the result of valves and
>pistons connecting.
>Mostly seem to be on rebuilt engines anyone else?

I'm glad its not just me then! (2.5 N/A)

It chewed up its first woodruff key about 18 months ago.

It then dropped off its crank pulley bolt and chewed up another key a
couple of weeks ago in wales. (probably lost this one as i hardly put
any locktite on the bolt and the lock washer was crap!).

The bottom pulley seems to be reusable (though ask Lee and Tim how
lucky I was to find it when it fell off near Nantwich!), though it and
the crank are now slightly scored and worn - and the key hole is a
little bit mauled. I am going to purchase a spare key and bolt to keep
in the back when i next visit beamends!

Despite this - with a decent fuel distributer pump and a good
battery/charging system i've no complaints about the 2.5 N/A engine. I
used to get 30+ mpg out of mine when i drove it every day too.
 
On Mon, 24 Apr 2006 23:00:25 +0100, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Tom where are you? Tom has a rebuilt Sherpa Diesel 2.5..... If any one does
>any lanes between Oswestry and Bala and sees a crank pulley bolt and
>keyshaft I'm sure Tom would appreciate them back.

I think the replacement bits came to less than a fiver! (and that
included a rear reflector and some door hinge nuts too!) - so it was
probably once of my cheapest visits to a landrover parts stockists
ever!

 
Derek wrote:

|| I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As
|| and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the
|| woodruff key on the crankshaft, result being a mangled bottom
|| pulley, keyway and also if you are unlucky timing pulley and the
|| result of valves and pistons connecting.
|| Mostly seem to be on rebuilt engines anyone else?

Happened on mine. Charge light was glowing, so tightened the alternator
belt, and found out why the PO had left it slack! Mucho clattering from the
front of the lump, crank pulley loose as a very loose thing. I got away
with just tightening it, as there was no damage to the key or keyway. I
wonder if they work slack because people take them off to do belts etc and
don't quite realise just how tight they need to be when you put it all back
together.

--
Rich
==============================

I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one.


 
On or around Tue, 25 Apr 2006 19:11:09 +0100, "Richard Brookman"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Derek wrote:
>
>|| I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As
>|| and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the
>|| woodruff key on the crankshaft, result being a mangled bottom
>|| pulley, keyway and also if you are unlucky timing pulley and the
>|| result of valves and pistons connecting.
>|| Mostly seem to be on rebuilt engines anyone else?
>
>Happened on mine. Charge light was glowing, so tightened the alternator
>belt, and found out why the PO had left it slack! Mucho clattering from the
>front of the lump, crank pulley loose as a very loose thing. I got away
>with just tightening it, as there was no damage to the key or keyway. I
>wonder if they work slack because people take them off to do belts etc and
>don't quite realise just how tight they need to be when you put it all back
>together.

300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as
they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Confidence: Before important work meetings, boost your confidence by
reading a few pages from "The Tibetan Book of the Dead"
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 
On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 20:24:46 +0100, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as
>they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove.

When i rebuilt my engine i couldnt get the crank pulley off initially
as it was tighter than a tight thing.
Had to stick the block in the back of my mates landy so he could take
it to work where i think they parked a truck on it to stop it moving
(or got lots of lads to sit on it!) and undid it with an air gun.


 
On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 20:35:37 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> scribbled the following nonsense:

>On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 20:24:46 +0100, Austin Shackles
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as
>>they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove.
>
>When i rebuilt my engine i couldnt get the crank pulley off initially
>as it was tighter than a tight thing.
>Had to stick the block in the back of my mates landy so he could take
>it to work where i think they parked a truck on it to stop it moving
>(or got lots of lads to sit on it!) and undid it with an air gun.
>

easier way, big long breaker bar and a socket, wedge the breaker bar
against the chassis and flick the ignition momentarily until the bolt
loosens. Works for me every time.
--

Simon Isaacs

Peterborough 4x4 Club Chairman, Newsletter Editor and Webmaster
Green Lane Association (GLASS) Financial Director
101 Ambi, undergoing camper conversion www.simoni.co.uk
1976 S3 LWT, Fully restored, ready for sale! Make me an offer!
Suzuki SJ410 (Wife's) 3" lift kit fitted, body shell now restored and mounted on chassis, waiting on a windscreen and MOT
Series 3 88" Rolling chassis...what to do next
1993 200 TDi Discovery
1994 200 TDi Discovery body shell, being bobbed and modded.....
 
On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 21:29:31 +0100, Simon Isaacs <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 20:35:37 +0100, Tom Woods
><[email protected]> scribbled the following nonsense:
>
>>On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 20:24:46 +0100, Austin Shackles
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as
>>>they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove.
>>
>>When i rebuilt my engine i couldnt get the crank pulley off initially
>>as it was tighter than a tight thing.
>>Had to stick the block in the back of my mates landy so he could take
>>it to work where i think they parked a truck on it to stop it moving
>>(or got lots of lads to sit on it!) and undid it with an air gun.
>>
>
>easier way, big long breaker bar and a socket, wedge the breaker bar
>against the chassis and flick the ignition momentarily until the bolt
>loosens. Works for me every time.

Might have worked if i hadnt just driven the truck a couple of miles
without any oil in and siezed the engine up! ;)
 
On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 21:42:16 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> scribbled the following nonsense:

>On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 21:29:31 +0100, Simon Isaacs <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 20:35:37 +0100, Tom Woods
>><[email protected]> scribbled the following nonsense:
>>
>>>On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 20:24:46 +0100, Austin Shackles
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as
>>>>they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove.
>>>
>>>When i rebuilt my engine i couldnt get the crank pulley off initially
>>>as it was tighter than a tight thing.
>>>Had to stick the block in the back of my mates landy so he could take
>>>it to work where i think they parked a truck on it to stop it moving
>>>(or got lots of lads to sit on it!) and undid it with an air gun.
>>>
>>
>>easier way, big long breaker bar and a socket, wedge the breaker bar
>>against the chassis and flick the ignition momentarily until the bolt
>>loosens. Works for me every time.
>
>Might have worked if i hadnt just driven the truck a couple of miles
>without any oil in and siezed the engine up! ;)

O
--

Simon Isaacs

Peterborough 4x4 Club Chairman, Newsletter Editor and Webmaster
Green Lane Association (GLASS) Financial Director
101 Ambi, undergoing camper conversion www.simoni.co.uk
1976 S3 LWT, Fully restored, ready for sale! Make me an offer!
Suzuki SJ410 (Wife's) 3" lift kit fitted, body shell now restored and mounted on chassis, waiting on a windscreen and MOT
Series 3 88" Rolling chassis...what to do next
1993 200 TDi Discovery
1994 200 TDi Discovery body shell, being bobbed and modded.....
 
On or around Tue, 25 Apr 2006 21:29:31 +0100, Simon Isaacs <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>easier way, big long breaker bar and a socket, wedge the breaker bar
>against the chassis and flick the ignition momentarily until the bolt
>loosens. Works for me every time.

that only worked in the disco 300 TDi after I a) bought a better breaker bar
(the first one broke - and that had stood up to serious abuse in the past)
and even then it required the bar to be set a couple of inches above the
chassis so that it got a bit of momentum. just wedging it against the
chassis and turning the starter did nothing.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Remember that to change your mind and follow him who sets you right
is to be none the less free than you were before."
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus (121-180), from Meditations, VIII.16
 
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