Diesel non start - suspect recode required

Hello forum members.

I have researched the forum for details relating to this topic and as a result feel that I can almost self-diagnose the fault on my diesel P38. However, confirmation from knowledgeable folk would be very gratefully received.

The vehicle failed to start one morning (out of the blue) and initial diagnosis was blamed on a leaky fuel injection pump. The pump was removed and seals renewed (metering block 'o' ring) and everything built up. The engine still refuses to start.

I have fully operational fuel supply circuit (pump, etc) and shut off solenoid is working as it should. There is no diesel from the injector feed pipes whatesoever on turning the engine over.

Two things may have happened:

1) I misdiagnosed the fault, which was loss of communication between the BECM & engine ECU from the outset.
2) On rectifying the fuel injection pump fault, having disconnected the battery I have lost communication between the BECM & fuel inj pump.

The key-fob works fine & the glow plug/ engine warning lamps operate as they should. Battery charged, and spinning over lively as it should.

Whatever the cause, it looks like I need the use of one of the Sync Mate devices I have read about on here. If this is the case, would any kind forum member living in the South Yorkshire area be willing to lend the use of their Sync Mate to get me out of trouble?

Because you jumped in and refurbed the FIP without properly diagnosing the fault the problem you now have is what is causing the problem, an inaccurately timed FIP or loss of sync? Likely to need more than a syncmate, you need also to check the FIP parameters with live data on diagnostics once you get it started IMO.

If you have had the injection pump apart and not rebuilt it correctly you will never get it to start. What exactly did you do to it?

The fip has had a new seal kit with close & proper attention to the known hazards of doing so. I'm quite sure no harm has been come to the settings (particularly the maximum fuel setting) and that it is back together okay. The pump was re-fitted and timed correctly to the engine by an associate using the appropriate special tools.

That said, I am guilty of jumping in, quite right. previous post

However, I'm thinking that should anything be slighty out, I should at least have some sort of output from the delivery valves whether it be sufficient to make it run okay or not? Or maybe running & maintaining my ancient Citroen CX diesel has left me a little out of touch with these later digital injection pumps. One wire & a throttle cable to the FIP is all I'm used to seeing!

nineteen69 said:

The fip has had a new seal kit with close & proper attention to the known hazards of doing so. I'm quite sure no harm has been come to the settings (particularly the maximum fuel setting) and that it is back together okay. The pump was re-fitted and timed correctly to the engine by an associate using the appropriate special tools.

That said, I am guilty of jumping in, quite right. previous post

However, I'm thinking that should anything be slighty out, I should at least have some sort of output from the delivery valves whether it be sufficient to make it run okay or not? Or maybe running & maintaining my ancient Citroen CX diesel has left me a little out of touch with these later digital injection pumps. One wire & a throttle cable to the FIP is all I'm used to seeing!

Click to expand...

If the top section of the FIP has been fitted incorrectly it won't go, there is a little peg that has to locate correctly, the top also has to be re-positioned accurately.
Do a site search for more info.
A re-sync would be a simple option to eliminate that possibility but you may still end up needing diagnostics. Have a look at Blackbox Solutions Ltd - Designers and manufacturers of the best vehicle diagnostic tools. Nanocom Evo.

Just realised it would probably help if I answered your question...
I fitted a new shaft seal together with 1st & 2nd tier seals (from the top) plus shut off solenoid 'o' rings and a new metering block 'o' ring (which was where the leak was atually coming from). I leapt in as I figured it had airlocked over night due to the steady leak.

Thanks for this.
I remember the little peg - you don't know it's in right as the top closes before it actually engages.
I will search the links you suggested and drop back on it once my enthusiasm levels have returned to normal.