Diesel Just won't start

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defender300td1 said:
What are you on about the banjo is the pipe that bolts onto the fip he has fuel to the fip but not after he has now said there is a buzzing if it was out of sync there would be no power to it and it would not buzz would it as I said now the fuel is not passing through a filter it could have a block in the fip read again!
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You really are a waste of space.
He has fuel at the FIP, not at the injectors. He is not precise about where the buzzing is coming from.
If the buzzing is coming from the FIP it could just as easily be the shut off vibrating due to a bad connection or burnt fuse box.
You are obsessed with the fact that he has bypassed the filter, since it has never started since before this was done I consider it unlikely to be relevant.
 
First of all the intank pump feeds the fip its a wide tube compared to the Small Internals of the pump out of sync does not caus the intank pump to stop its delivery as stated previously , but from the fip onwards is the problem weather its out if sync , if it was there would be no power to fip as that's what's shut off,but it seems that there could be a buzzing from the fip or the fuse box , yet we Are to find out! So as another suggestion being that the fuel filter has been by passed it could i do say could of been blocked is that so bad to Comprehend?
 
have not taken the pum to pieces slackened the torque screws but dont have anything to turn the v shape or what ever size it is.
 
HandyPaul said:
have not taken the pum to pieces slackened the torque screws but dont have anything to turn the v shape or what ever size it is.
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I know of a site that supplies a referb kit as well as the triangular tool , but in saying that any non hex socket , can't rermeber what they are called will fit :)
 
Ok the buzzing sound is coming from around the area of the pump. Not anywhere near the fuse box. I have not by passed the fuel filter at any time. There is fuel to the pump. There is no power to the intank fuel pump unless I hot wire it. Would the shut of solinoid click if working as aposed to buzzing. The battery has now given up the ghost. Even with jump lead not getting a good cranck speed. So before any mor investigation can go on need to sort that. Again I would like to thank you all for your comments, Never expected such a response.
 
HandyPaul said:
Ok the buzzing sound is coming from around the area of the pump. Not anywhere near the fuse box. I have not by passed the fuel filter at any time. There is fuel to the pump. There is no power to the intank fuel pump unless I hot wire it. Would the shut of solinoid click if working as aposed to buzzing. The battery has now given up the ghost. Even with jump lead not getting a good cranck speed. So before any mor investigation can go on need to sort that. Again I would like to thank you all for your comments, Never expected such a response.
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Need a fully charged battery mate,these cars do not really like low power OR jump starts. Could possibly still be the stop solenoid that is the problem.
If you need to hot wire the tank pump to get it working ,i would think the relay is f***ed, though i may be wrong
Ed
 
HandyPaul said:
Ok the buzzing sound is coming from around the area of the pump. Not anywhere near the fuse box. I have not by passed the fuel filter at any time. There is fuel to the pump. There is no power to the intank fuel pump unless I hot wire it. Would the shut of solinoid click if working as aposed to buzzing. The battery has now given up the ghost. Even with jump lead not getting a good cranck speed. So before any mor investigation can go on need to sort that. Again I would like to thank you all for your comments, Never expected such a response.
Click to expand...

There is only power to lift pump when glow lamp is lit or when engine is running. Unless your car is 99 on then there is power to pump also when cranking. If the FIP is full of air you need to get it out. Cranking the engine will not do that on pre 99 cars. That is why i said 300Tdi gave out duff info with his filter change method. Make sure your ELAB (shut off valve) is working hold it and get someone to switch ignition on and off, you should feel it click open and closed. Opening all the injectors, power your lift pump, then crank, that should eventually get the air out of the FIP. As you get fuel to injectors close them. If you have a vacuum extractor couple it to the long spill pipe and apply a vac, that will suck air out of FIP and fuel from tank. It's another way of priming FIP, only usually used when pump is totally dry.
 
HandyPaul said:
have not taken the pum to pieces slackened the torque screws but dont have anything to turn the v shape or what ever size it is.
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There lies your answer - it's moved forward. You need to loosen them off again and push it backwards while someone cranks the engine


Wear gloves ;-) ;-)
 
wammers said:
There is only power to lift pump when glow lamp is lit or when engine is running. Unless your car is 99 on then there is power to pump also when cranking. If the FIP is full of air you need to get it out. Cranking the engine will not do that on pre 99 cars. That is why i said 300Tdi gave out duff info with his filter change method. Make sure your ELAB (shut off valve) is working hold it and get someone to switch ignition on and off, you should feel it click open and closed. Opening all the injectors, power your lift pump, then crank, that should eventually get the air out of the FIP. As you get fuel to injectors close them. If you have a vacuum extractor couple it to the long spill pipe and apply a vac, that will suck air out of FIP and fuel from tank. It's another way of priming FIP, only usually used when pump is totally dry.
Click to expand...

It was not duff info I was explain what happens when you have an empty fip it buzzed I did metion this as soon as he's said there was a buzzing thank very much :):):)

I see we have moved away from synch and fuse box issues I wonder if that's somthing to do with the buzzing from the fip lmfao
 
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defender300td1 said:
It was not duff info I was explain what happens when you have an empty fip it buzzed I did metion this as soon as he's said there was a buzzing thank very much :):):)

I see we have moved away from synch and fuse box issues I wonder if that's somthing to do with the buzzing from the fip lmfao
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He now has several possibilities to investigate. Buzzing from the pump would seem to indicate that it is active. If he had mentioned that in his first post maybe the trip round the houses would not have been needed. You can only react to information received and narrow things down as a consequence. Simply saying my engine just won't to start, throws out many possibilities. The thread has progressed based on fresh information. For instance following your filter change method would cause problems on earlier vehicles but you didn't know that did you?
 
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defender300td1 said:
It was not duff info I was explain what happens when you have an empty fip it buzzed I did metion this as soon as he's said there was a buzzing thank very much :):):)

I see we have moved away from synch and fuse box issues I wonder if that's somthing to do with the buzzing from the fip lmfao
Click to expand...

If you've power to the tank pump and the FIP is in the correct position a few rotations of the engine during cranking will fill the FIP and lead to fuel ****ing out the cracked off injectors

remove the top cover off the FIP and you will see this....
fts.jpg


Now when you turn the ignition key the arm will move from green to red back to green
FIPopen_zps8f8c8501.jpg
 
wammers said:
He now has several possibilities to investigate. Buzzing from the pump would seem to indicate that it is active. If he had mentioned that in his first post maybe the trip round the houses would not have been needed. You can only react to information received and narrow things down as a consequence. Simply saying my engine just won't to start, throws out many possibilities. The thread has progressed based on fresh information. For instance following your filter change method would cause problems on earlier vehicles but you didn't know that did you?
Click to expand...

Yes I know an empty fip Buzzes, when I get the time I'm going to check feed to the wiring of the fip while its in sync and then we will almost know for sure next time to rule this out as there seems to be no warning lamp ect :)
 
JohnnyCrash said:
Doing as I've post above will show you that the FIP is in sync or not
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Sorry Johnny didn't read that that's good I like nice one , I would also like to do a test on feed wire, s as this saves stripping pump , well the top but now we have one option brilliant :)
 
defender300td1 said:
Sorry Johnny didn't read that that's good I like nice one , I would also like to do a test on feed wire, s as this saves stripping pump , well the top but now we have one option brilliant :)
Click to expand...

Hammer on a 7mm Socket and this will let you remove the security bolt

then replace it with a normal cap head, here are the dimensions for the bolts

pumpbolts.png
 
JohnnyCrash said:
mine did :p
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Sorry can't see how it could move enough to stop engine starting. Unless it was loose to start with. If all the others were undone, there maybe a slight change of position of control collar due to seals lifting unit. That would effect tick over. But enough to stop it starting never. ;)
 
and even if it hasn't moved then see above pictures carry out this test to see if FIP is in sync

if not then you have your answer
 
JohnnyCrash said:
and even if it hasn't moved then see above pictures carry out this test to see if FIP is in sync

if not then you have your answer
Click to expand...

It's a lot easier to read the EMS code from the ECM then read what the BECM has stored with Nanocom to be honest. Certainly a whole lot easier than taking the manifold off and removing top of pump. Think i'll stick with my method thanks all the same. :D:D:D
 
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