Series 3 Diesel fuel return pipes leaking, etc..

Some time back I converted my S3 1984 petrol to a 200 Di (turbo removed), following the Glencoyne method. Amazingly it works great and I've had very little trouble since. Although for the trouble I wonder if it was worth it (the petrol was just as good). Anyway now I do have some minor problems. It is smokey, leaks diesel from the lines, does not start in cold weather and overheats on long journeys. In all other respects it works great.

My primary concern is the leaks on the fuel return pipes between the injectors. I've changed these twice. The first time I popped the pipes in boiling water then put them on. Recently I replaced them with new braided 3.2 mm hose, which I just pushed on. Anyway they have all leaked diesel. Does anybody know how to attach these correctly, should they have an additional clip to tighten the fitting? It seems to me that the return fuel is under pressure, I thought they would be low pressure and not need clips.

Also, overheating. I had to remove the fan to fit the engine. Do I need an electric fan?

Smoke. It is grey / white / blueish - any ideas

Starting. What is an easy method to fit the glow plugs. Can I use the existing Petrol Starter solenoid, which is mounted on the bulkhead?

Glow plugs- you can use a simple mom on switch and a suitable relay which isn't expensive, I think but don't know for sure that the starter solenoid would be fine.
You could also fit the diesel ign switch but that's more expensive and you would still need a relay or use your solenoid to help the switch contacts.
Are you sure it's overheating?
Gauge/ sender mismatch is common on conversions.

Flossie said:

Glow plugs- you can use a simple mom on switch and a suitable relay which isn't expensive, I think but don't know for sure that the starter solenoid would be fine.
You could also fit the diesel ign switch but that's more expensive and you would still need a relay or use your solenoid to help the switch contacts.
Are you sure it's overheating?
Gauge/ sender mismatch is common on conversions.

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I think so. I used the parts listed in the conversion, for a while I assumed the problem was the thermostat as the water in the rad always looked suspiciously clean, so pulled that out but no change, still gets hot. Perhaps even in cold wales a fan is needed if the engine has to work hard.

My electric fan only comes on if I'm off road/low box or stuck in hot heavy traffic.
I'd get an aftermarket matched gauge and sender (VDO are rated) you may not have a problem.
If it was overheating it would smell hot and bothered or at least mine did when my fan fuse fell out!

Here is some helpful advice on smoke, and here are some equally helpful thoughts on glowplugs!

You can get the single copper wire out of some decent mains cable and wind this round the pipes twice and twist tight. Be gentle as it will break but you can do a bit of trial and error. Go round twice so there's a full 360 of grip.

I just used these on my pvc pipework.



Worked a treat.

did you put a good fuel return pipe to the tank? if its restricted it could force fuel out of the joints.
My 200tdi defender has a kenlow fan but its just on a switch on the dash, if it ever starts getting hot I switch it on but its very rarely used. any 12v fan from a scrap car will work just need to make mounting brackets. and wire it so it blows inwards.

daz28 said:

did you put a good fuel return pipe to the tank? if its restricted it could force fuel out of the joints.
My 200tdi defender has a kenlow fan but its just on a switch on the dash, if it ever starts getting hot I switch it on but its very rarely used. any 12v fan from a scrap car will work just need to make mounting brackets. and wire it so it blows inwards.

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Don’t let any part of the fan touch the radiator fins. Vibration can and will burst them. Use a rubber gasket between.