Diesel FIP

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Grrrrrr

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Full Member
Posts
18,965
Location
Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Hi chaps,

I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and replace my diesel fuel injection pump. A new one is silly money (looking at £1500 with the VAT) and one off Fleabay will probably be as worn as mine as it looks like low-sulphur fuel kills these pumps.

Given the pump housing is probably as worn as anything else I'm a little concerned about how thorough the reconditioning was and how long the reconditioned pump will last but others on here appear to have been OK so I'm going to give it a go, notwithstanding I could get a whole engine from a scrapper for the same price!

Anyway, has anyone had any experience of these people? I think it is the right pump even though they use the word "classic" in the Range Rover description: LAND ROVER Range Rover II 2.5 D Classic Bosch Diesel Fuel Pump 0460406994

I'm pretty sure 0460406994 is the correct pump for the P38A.
 
Yes good service. You will have to pay an exchange surcharge but it is refunded when you return your old pump. Fitted one of their exchange pumps on mine a couple of years ago.
 
biketeacherdave said:
yeah whats wrong with it iv fixed a few
Click to expand...

130K miles and it is tired, I think.

I've ordered one now. Just need to order the tools to fit it and check the timing. So, that'll be some sort of tool for number 4 injector, maybe something for the high-pressure pipes? That tool to get the pump off the timing chain and a dial gauge and adapter. Think there's links on another of my threads to most of the gear.

Should be a fun learning experience!
 
i could have resealed your old one on the car no probs also some of these pumps have a mini filter hidden inside the main fuel inlet banjo pipe hidden deep down they get blocked up causing all sorts of problems
 
Is this the tool that holds the FIP sprocket and chain in place while you extract the pump? Should be tool: LRT-12-119. Laser 4064 Diesel Injection Pump Puller for 2.5TD/TDS Eng LRT12-119 & KM825 | eBay

Also, RAVE says I need tool LRT-12-117 for the fuel feed pipes. I believe it is 17mm so would this be OK? BGS Tools 1/2" Special Wrench For BMW Opel 2.5Td Mercedes 17mm Fuel Pipe 8434 | eBay

Also, tool LRT-12-118 is requires to turn the new pump shaft to the correct position. Looks like a circle with a cut on it for the spline on the FIP shaft to slot into. £50 odd quid on Dingocroft! Island come up around £35. Comes with the timing set and you get the full set for £100. Can you get it cheaper anywhere else?
 
The tool at the bottom right of this set, next to the timing pin, is that for holding the FIP sprocket in place while removing the FIP? i.e. LRT-12-119? I think it is, isn't it?

BMW & LANDROVER 1.8 2.5 TD TDS TD5 P38 CHAIN DRIVEN ENGINE TIMING TOOL SET | eBay

So that set and the 17mm fuel pipe wrench would do the trick.

Wondering if it is worth doing a compression test while I've got all the stuff off. Presumably I'd need an adapter for the glow-plug holes and a compression guage. What's the best way to shut the fuel off when testing? Guess I could change the EMS code in the BECM using the Nanocom.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Is this the tool that holds the FIP sprocket and chain in place while you extract the pump? Should be tool: LRT-12-119. Laser 4064 Diesel Injection Pump Puller for 2.5TD/TDS Eng LRT12-119 & KM825 | eBay

Also, RAVE says I need tool LRT-12-117 for the fuel feed pipes. I believe it is 17mm so would this be OK? BGS Tools 1/2" Special Wrench For BMW Opel 2.5Td Mercedes 17mm Fuel Pipe 8434 | eBay

Also, tool LRT-12-118 is requires to turn the new pump shaft to the correct position. Looks like a circle with a cut on it for the spline on the FIP shaft to slot into. £50 odd quid on Dingocroft! Island come up around £35. Comes with the timing set and you get the full set for £100. Can you get it cheaper anywhere else?
Click to expand...

You need LRT-12-119 to hold the sprocket in place. You don't really need LRT-12-117 but they are handy. You don't need LRT-12-118, a good suitably sized flat spanner applied carefully will turn the pump. ONLY turn it clockwise. You also need an adaptor, a DTI and a timing pin. Always turn engine clockwise, apart from a slight jiggle to engage timing pin NEVER turn it anticlockwise. Pump MUST be removed with engine locked at TDC.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Wammers.

I've had enough of bodging things unless I have to. Once you've polished a nut or bolt you're in a world of pain.

Ordered the timing kit for £100. It has almost everything in it and I'll have to do the chains and sprockets one day anyway. Also bunged the 17mm 12-117 tool in there. Should make it a bit easier.

Looked at compression testers. Ideally I'd get one that I could use on the petrol as well but when you get to kits with lots of adapters you start looking at silly money. Seems silly not to check while I've got the manifold off though. Might see if I can borrow a kit off the garage up the road for the weekend.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Thanks Wammers.

I've had enough of bodging things unless I have to. Once you've polished a nut or bolt you're in a world of pain.

Ordered the timing kit for £100. It has almost everything in it and I'll have to do the chains and sprockets one day anyway. Also bunged the 17mm 12-117 tool in there. Should make it a bit easier.

Looked at compression testers. Ideally I'd get one that I could use on the petrol as well but when you get to kits with lots of adapters you start looking at silly money. Seems silly not to check while I've got the manifold off though. Might see if I can borrow a kit off the garage up the road for the weekend.
Click to expand...

Compression testers for diesels run to a lot higher pressure than petrol ones. You can get one that will do both, but they are usually silly money for a good one. As the gauge needs to be accurate across a larger range. Hold the delivery valves with a spanner when undoing or tightening the injection pipe nuts on the pump.:);)
 
Grrrrrr said:
The tool at the bottom right of this set, next to the timing pin, is that for holding the FIP sprocket in place while removing the FIP? i.e. LRT-12-119? I think it is, isn't it?

BMW & LANDROVER 1.8 2.5 TD TDS TD5 P38 CHAIN DRIVEN ENGINE TIMING TOOL SET | eBay

So that set and the 17mm fuel pipe wrench would do the trick.

Wondering if it is worth doing a compression test while I've got all the stuff off. Presumably I'd need an adapter for the glow-plug holes and a compression guage. What's the best way to shut the fuel off when testing? Guess I could change the EMS code in the BECM using the Nanocom.
Click to expand...

Just disconnect the stop valve.
 
wammers said:
Compression testers for diesels run to a lot higher pressure than petrol ones. You can get one that will do both, but they are usually silly money for a good one.
Click to expand...

No **** there. Trying to source one to borrow!

wammers said:
As the gauge needs to be accurate across a larger range. Hold the delivery valves with a spanner when undoing or tightening the injection pipe nuts on the pump.:);)
Click to expand...

Right ... OK. As soon as I work out what they are I will do! :)
 
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