Series 2 Diesel engine bay..

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Shippers

Well-Known Member
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10,693
Location
Algarve
As title says...anyone got a pic of an engine bay cant find a factory fitted diesel bay pic on net..if you have does the start key on a factory fit live on a panel below instrument panel along with stop pull...everything is bodged on this resto I'm doing...pic of whats fitted...
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Look at the wiring!...wev'e refurbed pedal boxs so we can start and stop to asses box and engine before we strip it down to bare chassis and refurb...thanks
 
Is that the mighty 2 litre diesel engine I see there?

Pic of my dash from a few years ago, two ign switches fitted as std, bottom one is lucas tractor style starter switch which also activates the glow plugs, knob to the right was the engine pull stop cable, and i have no recollection what the toggle switch to the left was for!
Top panel main swicth is for everything else ie lights, alternator circuit, oil light etc.

The green bible workshop manual should have the wiring diagram in, pretty simple on early cars as they have a total of one fuse!

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Ps if the car is an 88 the CV style master cylinder also works well on the brake system, way cheaper than the CB style, not sure on the 109 models?

PPS absolute top mod if keeping the 2 litre diesel, is a TDI starter motor, also an A127 alternator is a great mod.
 
I had a very tidy Series 2 once, wish I could have kept it but money was well tight at the time. Key was set up as in Lynall's pic.
Most of the wiring on the bulkhead looks standard. The mess looks like it is the indicator relay/flasher. Series 2 landys did not have factory fitted indicators as standard. Folk who wanted them had them fitted by the dealer or a local garage or did it themselves so there can be a variety of set ups both good and bad. Same goes for screen washers when they became a legal requirement in the 60's
 
Is that the mighty 2 litre diesel engine I see there?

Pic of my dash from a few years ago, two ign switches fitted as std, bottom one is lucas tractor style starter switch which also activates the glow plugs, knob to the right was the engine pull stop cable, and i have no recollection what the toggle switch to the left was for!
Top panel main swicth is for everything else ie lights, alternator circuit, oil light etc.

The green bible workshop manual should have the wiring diagram in, pretty simple on early cars as they have a total of one fuse!

View attachment 226985

Brill...that is exactly whats there apart from at some point a S3 speedo has been fitted as it has the H\beam light etc in it...
 
I had a very tidy Series 2 once, wish I could have kept it but money was well tight at the time. Key was set up as in Lynall's pic.
Most of the wiring on the bulkhead looks standard. The mess looks like it is the indicator relay/flasher. Series 2 landys did not have factory fitted indicators as standard. Folk who wanted them had them fitted by the dealer or a local garage or did it themselves so there can be a variety of set ups both good and bad. Same goes for screen washers when they became a legal requirement in the 60's

Thanks...part of the mess apears to be trailer cable that goes into a round box of the type used in house wiring ...
 
Ps if the car is an 88 the CV style master cylinder also works well on the brake system, way cheaper than the CB style, not sure on the 109 models?

PPS absolute top mod if keeping the 2 litre diesel, is a TDI starter motor, also an A127 alternator is a great mod.

It is an 88 of 1958 vintage number 13 chassis number...thanks for the info...
 
The cable from the round junction box is probably the main loom to the rear. Using trailer cable to replace a worn out original loom is common. Does it go down through the chassis rail as per original or has it been clipped along the outside of chassis rail or under the tub? Division to trailer socket is usually done under the cover plate in the OS rear of tub. Nice to see a 58 getting some attention. My 58 had many series one bits like gearbox with dipstick on the side.
 
Twin batteries with extra frame on the nearside?
Through floor dip switch?
Oval blank in passenger side for the LHD placement of the dip switch
Alloy seat box?
 
Twin batteries with extra frame on the nearside?
Through floor dip switch?
Oval blank in passenger side for the LHD placement of the dip switch
Alloy seat box?

Yes on first 2..will check on plate but dont think its there...looks like indicators have been retro fitted as theres an eyebrow above sidelight on front wing but not on indicators and holes on rear panels are not the same as brake light holes...no stalk on steering column and a plastic windscreen washer bag fitted as well...
 
Taking seat box out doors off tub off and truck cab off tomorrow...dropped tank today 25l of old diesel that looked and smelt of varnish inside...still cant get fuel to injectors get up to injector pump hope it's not waxed up!
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Taking seat box out doors off tub off and truck cab off tomorrow...dropped tank today 25l of old diesel that looked and smelt of varnish inside...still cant get fuel to injectors get up to injector pump hope it's not waxed up!View attachment 227063


While since I bled a cav pump, but Iirc there is a bleed screw on the pump body, there is also a filter in the main fuel feed fitting, plastic Iirc?
Donf forget the mechanical stop may be stuck in the stop position?

If you look at the back of the injector pump cyl head side, if there is a bolt on bit it is a later pump, if its bare it is a proper early 2 litre pump.

Edit forgot to say, the 2 litre diesel did not have the best rep when current, and lots were rebuilt by the factory, if you look down the side of he block there may be a brass plate, the engines were also wet linered and had small holes in the block to show when the liner seals were leaking, they always leaked!
Pic of brass plate, and the coolant weep from further up the block, there will be four of these weeps!

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While since I bled a cav pump, but Iirc there is a bleed screw on the pump body, there is also a filter in the main fuel feed fitting, plastic Iirc?
Donf forget the mechanical stop may be stuck in the stop position?

If you look at the back of the injector pump cyl head side, if there is a bolt on bit it is a later pump, if its bare it is a proper early 2 litre pump.

Many thanks for your advice...we did have a school boy error thought after flattening the battery...but pull stop has a large return spring on it...round box may be standard wow will update on that...when I pulled injectors to spin engine over the pipes leaked old fuel...but the filter had no canister in it it was lying stuck in the chassis coverd in dirt and the canister had fuel but was full of gunge dont know how long it had run like that...pump looks like its been looked at recently as twist wire is new...will look at bleeding tomorrow...thanks again Rob...
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The pump filter is in the main fitting in the head of the injector pump, I think remove banjo bolt, then pipe, then unscrew large fitting to reveal filter.

That main fuel filter looks in excellent condition!

Pic of parts book showing jct box, Item 14.

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The pump filter is in the main fitting in the head of the injector pump, I think remove banjo bolt, then pipe, then unscrew large fitting to reveal filter.

That main fuel filter looks in excellent condition!

On it tomorrow thanks again...wait till you see the state of the 62yr old chassis fixable or not?..
 
On it tomorrow thanks again...wait till you see the state of the 62yr old chassis fixable or not?..

Well mine is 61yrs old and still going, mind you the rear is a patch work quilt, also now needs a rear xmember, really wants rear 1/2 chassis.
Anything is fixable, it all depends on time and money.
 
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