Diesel 2.25 - distributor pump alignment

Hi,

i've noticed that on my series 3 the distributor pump is out of align with the point it should line up with. I've tried undoing the 3 retaining nuts and moving but it seems stuck. should this be as simple as just undoing the 3 nuts or is there more to it than that?

Also, my landie starts third time every time when cold, first time doesn't even sound like it will turn over, second time it chugs a little, third time goes... any ideas?

Cheers, and thanks to people who have helped me out with a couple of other queries i've had on this site previously, its nice to know there are helpful, none patronising people in the landie community!

Cheers,

Matt

no/1 does the engine surge on tick over,ie rev up and down on its own.no/2 as th.e 2 pointers dont meet or line up is a sign the pump is worn and who ever owed it as turned the pump slightly to compensate the wear inside the pump,and no/3 as you said about the engine only starts on the third turn of the key indicates the pump as been turned to much, the reason for turning the pump in the first place is to eliminate black smoke, to turn it back you need to slacken all the pipes connected to it then the 3 bolts

thanks for the response, the engine surges very slightly on tickover, and if the pump is worn as you suggest (the whole thing is worn so i imagine the pump is no exception!! is it a case of getting a new one and doing a straight swap out? from your note i guess it would be worth turning it back to originally placed, trying it, then moving it slowly between the original place and the new positioning and seeing if that makes a difference?

thanks for the response, it gives me a reason now to get up there to the landy this afternoon and have a crack at it!!

You should probably leave it well alone!
As all the bits and pieces wear a bit, the injection TIMING tends to hang back (retarded) and this is GOOD for cold starting. Indeed, one of the standard cold start aids in later pumps is a deliberate mechanism to do just that - retard the timing a bit. The last owner probably advanced the timing to compensate for that wear, and if so chances are he knew what he was doing.

Diesels that are dodgy to start are like that for only one reason if otherwise the engine runs OK. That reason is NOT ENOUGH HEAT OF COMPRESSION when turning on the starter.

The cures include
BIGGER BATTERY and good starter to whirl it over faster. Faster means HOTTER in the cylinders on compression. Just a little faster can make a big difference.
NEW GLOW PLUGS, and glow it longer.
Fit a flame plug! Tractor device. Awesome bit of kit.
Use a good winter grade engine oil in winter.
Keep the engine WARM - under cover is best, but there are heaps of things you can do to warm it up prior to starting.

CharlesY

The timing chain wear also contributes to timing being out . As mentioned good battery (early diesels used twin sixes for just this reason) , good earths etc . The 2.25 never was a brilliant starter in cold weather . HTSH

tacr2man said:

The timing chain wear also contributes to timing being out . As mentioned good battery (early diesels used twin sixes for just this reason) , good earths etc . The 2.25 never was a brilliant starter in cold weather . HTSH

Click to expand...

Yup .... EVERYTHING wears a little as time passes and the engine runs, and all the wear means the ignition / injection timing slowly but surely happens a tad later, retarded.

Retarded - it's what slitty owners are ......... slow and late ....

CharlesY

Hi

What's a flame plug ?

Cheers

I think it is summat that Drew carries with him

Sri lankan said:

Hi

What's a flame plug ?

Cheers

Click to expand...

A flame plug fits into the inlet manifold.

It is connected to a fuel supply (often the fuel return pipe) and electricity through a button on the dash.

Key on. Press button .... big wire coil in flame plug goes red bloody hot, and as it does it opens a needle valve that lets in some diesel and then you operate the starter, and some fuel sprays onto the hot wire in the manifold and goes on fire. the smoke and flames and stuff gets sucked into the cylinders .....

You can get these from tractor dealers, and they are pretty much guaranteed to start any sluggish engine even on a cold day.

Even better is a KiGass pump .... and a hot wire.

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

A flame plug fits into the inlet manifold.

It is connected to a fuel supply (often the fuel return pipe) and electricity through a button on the dash.

Key on. Press button .... big wire coil in flame plug goes red bloody hot, and as it does it opens a needle valve that lets in some diesel and then you operate the starter, and some fuel sprays onto the hot wire in the manifold and goes on fire. the smoke and flames and stuff gets sucked into the cylinders .....

You can get these from tractor dealers, and they are pretty much guaranteed to start any sluggish engine even on a cold day.

Even better is a KiGass pump .... and a hot wire.

CharlesY

Click to expand...

mine werked well on my old perkins engined lwb never failed to start even on the coldest of days