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Disco 1 Definitive way to remove heater matrix on discovery 1 ..300tdi

Discussion in 'Technical Archive' started by birty1, Nov 22, 2013.

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  1. birty1

    birty1 New Member

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    Definitive way to remove heater matrix on discovery 1 ..300tdi#

    Hi guys I had the same problem as most of you …no heat and water in the foot well. After looking for the cause it was decided that the matrix had to be changed but no one could tell me the best way with everybody saying it was a dash out. According to the book it said it came out from the side? …so puzzled was I. Finally after 2 Landrover dealers said they were NOT prepared to undertake the job I tackled it myself.Firstly: YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THE DASHBOARD OUT so stop saying you do! This would be a major undertaking, and I imagine many cars have been scrapped afterward. You do not even take the centre control console out either.#
    Tools
    Hand grinder with guard removed
    A new metal cutting blade (thinnest possible fitted to the grinder)
    1 tube of metal epoxy glue for aluminium
    30cm of heating hose same diameter as the heater hose in the engine
    4 jubilee clips to suit the hose#
    Method#
    Remove centre console (4 screws, 2 in the box and 2 under the matt)

    Push seat back and look at the floor heat outlet …to the right you will see the matrix hidden behind the bottom of the dash and a metal structure. The metal structure holds the fuse box lid. Remove the fuse box lid and the floor heat vent. With the grinder cut level with the metal structure toward the heater matrix making sure there are no wires in the way …(basically the bottom of the dash is in the way, it needs cutting to allow the radiator the space to be removed) If you are undertaking this job …you will see where needs cutting. Later the cut is hardly visible when refitted.Remove metal structure in front of matrix by un-bolting at both ends (moving any other bolts near the fuse box hinge, you can now see the pipes holding the radiator in …cut the pipes with the grinder 50mm in (2”) …now remove the radiator (it slides out after you have taken the clip off)Take to the bench and remove pipe fittings, remove rubber seal. DO NOT TRY TO REFIT SEALS ON NEW RADIATOR the reason is they won’t seal again and will leak …trust me! …trim ends to 20mm …mix epoxy metal filler and set into new matrix. Wait 30min (have a brew)Clean ends of all pipes, pre cut hoses, slide on with washing up liquid, replace new matrix and connect up linking hoses. Run water in to the new radiator via the engine pipe to check for leaks, once happy, connect to the engine, and run to temp ..Check for leaks and refill to level.#If no leaks replace fuse box holding bar and reverse the procedure. The cut dash can be filled with coloured corking from BQ but it’s hardly noticeable.#Total time 4 hours#I now have blissful heat and can defrost my windows again#Pictures attached
     
    Biggus007 likes this.
  2. Tore LR

    Tore LR New Member

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    I'm right in the middle of this and really appreciate your post. But I can't find the pictures? I'm new here, so maybe I'm not looking in the right place.
     
  3. threaders 1

    threaders 1 Member

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  4. threaders 1

    threaders 1 Member

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    Hi Guys, can anyone tell me where the photos are of this operation by birty1 as I need to be operating myself asap. cheers David
     
  5. Chris Chit

    Chris Chit New Member

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    There’s no need to cut the dashboard, put a ratchet strap around the drivers seat base and the dashboard and tighten. It pulls the dash forward out of the way
    38B70932-0568-4528-B744-A187B3E71600.jpeg AF1F72DB-09FF-40C2-BE0C-CED8D7049A3B.jpeg
     
  6. towsey956

    towsey956 Well-Known Member

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    Here we go again...

    I’m now also needing to do this, so with metal work removed etc and dash pulled back are the heather controls in the way or does the matrix miss all that lot

    Cheers

    Towsey
     
  7. towsey956

    towsey956 Well-Known Member

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    Anyone any more info here, I’m hoping to do it tomorrow

    Cheers

    Towsey
     
  8. codfather79

    codfather79 Member

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    I opted for the dash removal.
    Its a doddle to do. 2 hrs for the strip out and about an hr and a half to re fit.
    Makes access so easy to get to the heater matrix, then you can replace it properly.
    The leak on mine was a bodged repair by a previous owner (so the OP's suggestion would not have worked)
    Honestly, a dash out and in is really simple and nothing to be scared of doing.
     
  9. towsey956

    towsey956 Well-Known Member

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    Hi, sorry I forgot to put up here how it went, I usually like to put results up to help people

    So...I went for the leaving the dash in method, and refit using coolant hose, and it just about went as follows

    -Removed centre console, floor heat vent, fuse box cover, black trim under fuse box, little metal strip that the fuse box cover screws to, bracket from dash to tunnel. Apart from centre console all other parts are fastened together and take no getting out at all

    -Unclip the heat control cable and turn the control so it’s up out of the way

    -Fasten some baler band from the bar under the middle of the drivers seat to the dash where basically the bottom left corner of the fuse box cover would be, then pull it back (the dashboard that is ;)) until the matrix has a clear path

    -cut a couple of cable ties and pushed the wires up a bit

    -now the worst bit, decide where your going to put your hose and dive in with a grinder with guard off and part worn slitting disc (new disc more likely to catch stuff and too small and it won’t be big enough to get thru the pipe)
    *****GOGGLES PEOPLE*****
    My first cuts were where I was going to fasten the pipe on the bulkhead side, then remove the screw holding the pipe clamp to the heater box and slide the matrix out, they are a snug fit, and once the matrix was out I cut the pipes that came out with it back a bit further to allow room for manoeuvring the hose into place on refit

    I think the pipe I got was a gates 5/8” 90 degree bend and it came with enough to use the bend for the top pipe and a straight tail for the bottom pipe. I also got 2 new o rings for the matrix unions and put a bit of rubber grease on them, also use fairy liquid on the hose to help to slip and slide them into place, and don’t forget 4 jubilee clips!

    As we’ve all heard before refit is reversal of removal

    *****WARNING*****
    I’m not going to mention names but the matrix I got doesn’t have as many cores as the original and now the heaters don’t get quite as hot as before, still ok just not as hot

    -When you clip the heat control cable back into place be sure to try the knob because you might end up not getting all the way round to hot or cold of it’s not set right

    Don’t take any of this as gospel I’m just trying to remember what I did to help others but I hope it helps others in the future

    Towsey
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2020
  10. towsey956

    towsey956 Well-Known Member

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    IMG_20200911_120637.jpg IMG_20200911_120703.jpg IMG_20200911_160742.jpg IMG_20200911_160725.jpg IMG_20200911_121900.jpg IMG_20200911_120235.jpg
    Not the best pics but all I have, just to show some bits you'll come across

    If I was to do it again I'd do it the same way, it's easy apart from deciding where to cut the pipes but this worked for me, I drew lines to show where they were not that it matters

    Hth

    Towsey
     
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