Defender Front Brake Disc Replacement

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OwenP02

Member
Posts
25
Location
Kent
Hi there, I am going to be undertaking the job of replacing all the brake discs on my mothers Defender 90, however, I was wondering if I actually have to remove the front brake hose to do so, is it not possible to just hang the caliper from the suspension spring whilst I work instead? I am worried if I disconnect the hose I will need to bleed the brakes afterward.
Additionally, is there any tips for doing this job people can offer before I start? I have my new drive member gaskets ordered already as well as grease for the wheel bearing and oil for the rear diffs.
 
OwenP02 said:
Hi there, I am going to be undertaking the job of replacing all the brake discs on my mothers Defender 90, however, I was wondering if I actually have to remove the front brake hose to do so, is it not possible to just hang the caliper from the suspension spring whilst I work instead? I am worried if I disconnect the hose I will need to bleed the brakes afterward.
Additionally, is there any tips for doing this job people can offer before I start? I have my new drive member gaskets ordered already as well as grease for the wheel bearing and oil for the rear diffs.
Click to expand...

The brake pipe is held on with a small bracket into the housing just remove the bolt & the
flexi & pipe will come away & just hang the caliper up on the spring as youve said.
I normally chuck new bearings & a hub seal in when I do mine.
 
Get a copy of the rave workshop manual.
Make sure you have the correct sockets, 12 points for the brake caliper..

use the wheel to undo the disc from the hub.

Cheers
 
kevstar said:
The brake pipe is held on with a small bracket into the housing just remove the bolt & the
flexi & pipe will come away & just hang the caliper up on the spring as youve said.
I normally chuck new bearings & a hub seal in when I do mine.
Click to expand...
Do you mean that the brake line is held onto the knuckle or something with a bracket? Can I hang the caliper without disconnecting the brake pipe / flexi from the caliper? I just don't want to disconnect the caliper if I don't have to.
 
neilly said:
Get a copy of the rave workshop manual.
Make sure you have the correct sockets, 12 points for the brake caliper..

use the wheel to undo the disc from the hub.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Is there a specific socket I will need for removing the brake caliper then? I didn't know about this, also, where can I find a copy of the workshop manual?
 
OwenP02 said:
Do you mean that the brake line is held onto the knuckle or something with a bracket? Can I hang the caliper without disconnecting the brake pipe / flexi from the caliper? I just don't want to disconnect the caliper if I don't have to.
Click to expand...

Yes it will come away no need to split the brake line. 17mm iirc
 
OwenP02 said:
Is there a specific socket I will need for removing the brake caliper then? I didn't know about this, also, where can I find a copy of the workshop manual?
Click to expand...

iirc, it is 1/2" or 13mm, I have its a lottery to which one fits best on certain caliper bolts.

WSM wise, do a search for rave manual download, but you can always use the good old haynes manual.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
iirc, it is 1/2" or 13mm, I have its a lottery to which one fits best on certain caliper bolts.

WSM wise, do a search for rave manual download, but you can always use the good old haynes manual.

Cheers
Click to expand...

I thought it was a 14mm multi hex socket.
 
kevstar said:
Yes it will come away no need to split the brake line. 17mm iirc
Click to expand...

I have seen some that have the bracket that holds the brake pipe held across both the top 17mm bolts on top of the swivel housing, Just be careful to undo one at a time to avoid losing the swivel oil.
None of it is rocket science, just take minute to think about it.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
I have seen some that have the bracket that holds the brake pipe held across both the top 17mm bolts on top of the swivel housing, Just be careful to undo one at a time to avoid losing the swivel oil.
None of it is rocket science, just take minute to think about it.

Cheers
Click to expand...

If im in about the hubs they will get new oils & seals/bearings no point fannying about
but then I go a bit ott with my maintenance.

Cheers
 
kevstar said:
If im in about the hubs they will get new oils & seals/bearings no point fannying about
but then I go a bit ott with my maintenance.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Why not go all in and change the bearings as well?, I would at least check them . Check the surfaces of the bearing races, Plus I would check the stub axles to make sure they have a good running surface for bearings and the seals.

Depends on how the motor is used .

Cheers
 
kevstar said:
If im in about the hubs they will get new oils & seals/bearings no point fannying about
but then I go a bit ott with my maintenance.

Cheers
Click to expand...

This Defender is fairly low mileage, the brake discs aren't at a stage where they need, doing, more a case that it would be more convenient to do them now whilst I have the time than in a month or two when it needs doing, so really I am in to just get the discs done and as little mess as possible, I have new gaskets for the drive members, I didn't get any new seals for the hubs, do they absolutely need replacing? Or should they be okay?
 
neilly said:
Why not go all in and change the bearings as well?, I would at least check them . Check the surfaces of the bearing races, Plus I would check the stub axles to make sure they have a good running surface for bearings and the seals.

Depends on how the motor is used .

Cheers
Click to expand...

I did say I do the bearings as well, I done the full bhuna on my D1 recently & my fender front
end is stripped atm as its getting a refurb drive train. Just rebuilt the transfer box feckn pain
putting it in lying on yer back on your own with a 4 inch lift & jacked up.
Ive only got short arms lol
 
OwenP02 said:
This Defender is fairly low mileage, the brake discs aren't at a stage where they need, doing, more a case that it would be more convenient to do them now whilst I have the time than in a month or two when it needs doing, so really I am in to just get the discs done and as little mess as possible, I have new gaskets for the drive members, I didn't get any new seals for the hubs, do they absolutely need replacing? Or should they be okay?
Click to expand...

Waht sort of driving does your Mum do? How long since they were last changed.

As you can imagine there are lots of questions, for example, my 90 spends a lot of time knee deep in mud and water. So I tend to have to change bearings and seals more than most.

If it is a road car, then you can probably go a lot further without changing bearings and seals.

Cheerrs
 
kevstar said:
I did say I do the bearings as well, I done the full bhuna on my D1 recently & my fender front
end is stripped atm as its getting a refurb drive train. Just rebuilt the transfer box feckn pain
putting it in lying on yer back on your own with a 4 inch lift & jacked up.
Ive only got short arms lol
Click to expand...

I was agreeing with you....

Cheers
 
OwenP02 said:
This Defender is fairly low mileage, the brake discs aren't at a stage where they need, doing, more a case that it would be more convenient to do them now whilst I have the time than in a month or two when it needs doing, so really I am in to just get the discs done and as little mess as possible, I have new gaskets for the drive members, I didn't get any new seals for the hubs, do they absolutely need replacing? Or should they be okay?
Click to expand...

As a defender owner, you should always have a bearing kit available.

FYI. I never use the paper drivemember gasket, I use RTV.

Cheers
 
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