Defender Clutch, Master or Slave?!

Hi All,

I've got a '92 90, and about 2 months ago I was driving back from work and the clutch just didn't work. Managed to get home using the starter to get me moving!

Then it started to work fine again, and then trhis morning it wouldn't go easily into reverse (loud grinding but finally went in) and whilst going through the gears is OK (ish), when stationary, it's become pretty tricky to get into gear. So, it's not fully 'not working' but there's definitely an issue.

Any ideas what this could be? Got to use the bus for an airport trip in a few weeks and don't want to get stranded!

Thanks in advance!
Charlie.

Have you checked the fluid level ?

Beat me to it..... always the first thing to check.

Yes, fluid looks fine, if a little brown! About 1cm down from the top.

Discolouring of fluid is a sign that seals are on the way out. I would change master ,slave and flex brake pipe. In the short term a fluid change may help. What happens is bits of seal/pipe rubber clogs fluid pathways. The fact that it has not worked and worked again points to the hydraulic system not the classic clutch release arm fail but all needs a check.

Thanks tottot, that makes some sense.

There is also a metal rattling/tinking underneath - could this be the release arm? I tend to ignore rattles on a defender!

The clutch master/slave/flexi parts are pretty cheap, although the slave is awkward to get at. Time to give the old girl some attention before you get stuck somewhere.

Thanks zeaphod, I think you're right.

Is it a pig of a job?

If my clutch fluid dips down a bit the 'bite' of the clutch / pedal sits lower I find. I top her up and it generally returns to normal after a bit.

How was the clutch before this happened? Is it easy to select gears when the engine is off? The clutch system is easy to replace. Is the grinding is the same as when you accidentally don’t push the clutch down enough? Or different?