Defender 90 advice

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grandy21

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11
Hello, after a long time admiring Defender’s, moving from the city to just outside of the Peak District has become the right time for myself and my boyfriend to buy a Defender 90. Predominant use will be for weekend adventures, and the occasional trip into Europe (spent the summer in Norway where our Honda Civic couldn’t handle the terrain we were driving on!).

We are trying our best not to jump at the ones we have been to view, notably so far a 20 yr old TDI 5 (£13.5k) and a 30 yr old ex MOD 300 TDI (£8k). Well aware that obviously age comes with rust, and that the rust works its way inside to out, but how much rust is too much rust? In particular the underside. Especially finding it hard when the underside is covered in oil and gunk when viewing. We are prepared to replace the chassis for the right price vehicle but is this a ridiculous outlook on buying a first defender? I’ve inserted some pictures of the two vehicles mentioned, if anyone is so kind to have a look!

Asking purely for thoughts having picked up many pearls of wisdom reading the other forums on this sight. I’d appreciate anyone’s comments, I’m not prepared to buy a vehicle without knowing where the wool might be pulled over my eyes!!

Many Thanks in advance :)
 

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First question I have would be is a 90 the right vehicle? They are very small (about the same external dimensions as a golf And do not have a lot of space inside, you can carry people, the dog, and things, but only one at a time. A 110 however has much more ability to mix and match. Even a hardtop with side facing. Seats can carry all of the above at the same time.

On the pictures you have uploaded. The first one looks like light surface rust that just needs a good pressure wash and new coating of chassis wax to keep it good for a while yet.

The second photo looks like it has possibly been under sealed (not ideal, much better to use wax) at some point which has then gotten liquid behind it and is starting to flake off. I would want to be giving that a more thorough inspection with a little tapping implement to see how much is surface and how much is deeper more concerning. Assume that is the 300tdi, also be aware that military will have a premium price for a very basic model that has been thrashed by a different squaddie every day.
 
Both of them look rusty to me.
1st photo looks to be bubbling up all along the bottom edge of the chassis.
2nd one I wouldn't bother.
If you can't weld it might be best to look for one with a galv chassis already.
In reality a new chassis is going to be getting on for £10k I should think with all the added extras.
Chassis can rust anywhere but rear 3rd does seem more vulnerable.
Happy hunting and post up any other adverts you are considering.
 
I prefer a 90, but they are v-small. You can't lie down in the back and they fill up quite quickly.

At approaching or past 20 years old the chassis do get corroded, from the inside as well as out.
You will either need a complete strip down and rebuild - which needs space and takes a lot of time or to find one that has already been done,
These pre-loved versions are out there.
Keep looking ....
We've all got landrovers so don't be shy too post adverts of ones you find - registration numbers are good too as this allows you to see it's history and if it's been looked after or not.
 
I too prefer 90's, and with a good galvanised roof rack like a brown church item, lots can be stored up top, including a tent if that takes your fancy!

Have a good look at the rear of the chassis (rear crossmember), they get crusty quickly, and if this has been replaced make sure you give all the outriggers a vigorous poke with a screwdriver. Bulkheads rust (at the bottom corners of the windscreen).

A well looked after, enthusiast owned vehicle would usually be the way to go , even higher mileage examples can be very good and sometimes will have recon gearboxes fitted etc. Galvanised chassis are expensive , but if one has been done that is a lot of time and money and hassle saved!
My preference would be for a td5, as they have proved very reliable (the most reliable landrover engine actually) over the fullness of time, fairly refined easy to tune and still very easy for the home mechanic, I've owned mine for over 9 years and it's only broken down on me once went the original alternator let go at 160k on it.

Preventative maintenance is a must on these vehicles, but they are perfectly capable of taking you around the world, many times over. Good luck!
 
dag019 said:
First question I have would be is a 90 the right vehicle? They are very small (about the same external dimensions as a golf And do not have a lot of space inside, you can carry people, the dog, and things, but only one at a time. A 110 however has much more ability to mix and match. Even a hardtop with side facing. Seats can carry all of the above at the same time.

On the pictures you have uploaded. The first one looks like light surface rust that just needs a good pressure wash and new coating of chassis wax to keep it good for a while yet.

The second photo looks like it has possibly been under sealed (not ideal, much better to use wax) at some point which has then gotten liquid behind it and is starting to flake off. I would want to be giving that a more thorough inspection with a little tapping implement to see how much is surface and how much is deeper more concerning. Assume that is the 300tdi, also be aware that military will have a premium price for a very basic model that has been thrashed by a different squaddie every day.
Click to expand...
You pose a very good question, the 90 v 110 debate is an often spiralling conversation in our house. Currently leaning more towards a 90 due to the space needed to store it and practicalities for more day-to-day use. Especially as we are not after a 110 to become a camper or ‘van life’ type vehicle. If anything, further down the line we might put a roof tent on, but that won’t be where we are prioritising our money just at the moment. However, a couple more forward facing seats in a 110 particularly appeals, especially to our friends- ha. I think either way though, for the right underside and paint job, realistically we’d consider either 90 or 110.

Thank you for taking the time to look at the rusty pics- it is extremely useful to hear a second opinion and also validating to have similar thoughts to why we’ve decided those vehicles are not for us - especially the ex MOD one.

Meanwhile, the search continues! Thank you :)
 
Anaconda said:
Both of them look rusty to me.
1st photo looks to be bubbling up all along the bottom edge of the chassis.
2nd one I wouldn't bother.
If you can't weld it might be best to look for one with a galv chassis already.
In reality a new chassis is going to be getting on for £10k I should think with all the added extras.
Chassis can rust anywhere but rear 3rd does seem more vulnerable.
Happy hunting and post up any other adverts you are considering.
Click to expand...
Hi, thank you for your thoughts! Extremely useful to have an another opinion. I’ll keep posting anything noteworthy on our hunt. Thank you :)
 
miktdish said:
I prefer a 90, but they are v-small. You can't lie down in the back and they fill up quite quickly.

At approaching or past 20 years old the chassis do get corroded, from the inside as well as out.
You will either need a complete strip down and rebuild - which needs space and takes a lot of time or to find one that has already been done,
These pre-loved versions are out there.
Keep looking ....
We've all got landrovers so don't be shy too post adverts of ones you find - registration numbers are good too as this allows you to see it's history and if it's been looked after or not.
Click to expand...
Thank you! Good to hear from a 90 lover. We are not after it to be a camper - much more likely to chuck a tent in or eventually a tent on top but that’s good to get perspective.
Will defo keep posting notable finds as we continue hunting- thank you 👍🏻
 
grandy21 said:
Hi, thank you for your thoughts! Extremely useful to have an another opinion. I’ll keep posting anything noteworthy on our hunt. Thank you :)
Click to expand...
We are all happy to help.
We will even try not to put you off. Most mechanical parts are straightforward to swap and relatively cheap. Lots of good YouTube videos, and poor ones of course.
Being in the Peaks you can also enjoy a few green lanes aswell.
 
Chalky. said:
I too prefer 90's, and with a good galvanised roof rack like a brown church item, lots can be stored up top, including a tent if that takes your fancy!

Have a good look at the rear of the chassis (rear crossmember), they get crusty quickly, and if this has been replaced make sure you give all the outriggers a vigorous poke with a screwdriver. Bulkheads rust (at the bottom corners of the windscreen).

A well looked after, enthusiast owned vehicle would usually be the way to go , even higher mileage examples can be very good and sometimes will have recon gearboxes fitted etc. Galvanised chassis are expensive , but if one has been done that is a lot of time and money and hassle saved!
My preference would be for a td5, as they have proved very reliable (the most reliable landrover engine actually) over the fullness of time, fairly refined easy to tune and still very easy for the home mechanic, I've owned mine for over 9 years and it's only broken down on me once went the original alternator let go at 160k on it.

Preventative maintenance is a must on these vehicles, but they are perfectly capable of taking you around the world, many times over. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Thanks Chalky, great advice thank you, especially good to know it wouldn’t be ridiculous buying a 90 to put a rack on soon after.
Thank you for the tips on what to look for and poke at when viewing. Also great to hear how your TD5 has serviced you so well! Absolutely agree with you that preventative maintenance is the way to future proof any road trip worth doing! Thank you :)
 
grandy21 said:
You pose a very good question, the 90 v 110 debate is an often spiralling conversation in our house. Currently leaning more towards a 90 due to the space needed to store it and practicalities for more day-to-day use. Especially as we are not after a 110 to become a camper or ‘van life’ type vehicle. If anything, further down the line we might put a roof tent on, but that won’t be where we are prioritising our money just at the moment. However, a couple more forward facing seats in a 110 particularly appeals, especially to our friends- ha. I think either way though, for the right underside and paint job, realistically we’d consider either 90 or 110.

Thank you for taking the time to look at the rusty pics- it is extremely useful to hear a second opinion and also validating to have similar thoughts to why we’ve decided those vehicles are not for us - especially the ex MOD one.

Meanwhile, the search continues! Thank you :)
Click to expand...
One of the reasons the 90 vs 110 is a serious question is a 110 hardtop is one of the cheapest versions of a defender you can buy. With a 110 station wagon being the most expensive. I do not think a 110 is that big when compared with other modern vehicles, it is on the larger side but is not the giant it once was. Similar to a 90 it feels a lot bigger than it is because of the height. The actual footprint is comparable to most modern SUV’s.

I have had a 110 hardtop since I was 18 (spent my student loan on it) so I may be biased. But it is only now I have a child I am converting it to a station wagon. Until now it has done everything I have needed. It is large enough to put bikes in the back of for adventure, you can fit 16 people in the back (legally 8), and once you are used to always taking a shunt to reverse park the size is no more inconvenient than any other vehicle.
 
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What you need is someone with you who knows Defenders well. Checking out the Chassis and bulkhead is not just a look and see job, a lot can be learned from tapping and listening just like an MOT person would/should do.
Check MOT history and if the same corrosion issue comes up year on year forget it.
 
Chalky. said:
well looked after, enthusiast owned vehicle would usually be the way to go , even higher mileage examples can be very good and sometimes will have recon gearboxes fitted etc. Galvanised chassis are expensive , but if one has been done that is a lot of time and money and hassle saved!
Click to expand...
This is a very important point to note. Mileage is not as relevant with a defender as it is with other vehicles. It’s the condition that is important. My 110 has 410k miles on it. But it is like the Ship of Theseus and very little of it has actually done that mileage. I am on my third recondition of the gear box for example. Last year after a fire it has all new wiring looms and a galv bulkhead. Compare this to the station wagon I bought when my son was born that has 115k miles on it. But has nothing left of anything made of steel.
 
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Hey there, lot of good point made about the different advantages between the 90’s/110’s.
If you’re going to do a bit of travel and need room hows about a Sankey size trailer for your camping kit. Free up loads of room too. I’ve used mine to camp too but as the lads on this have said you fill them pretty quick. If I take my missus camping I need an hgv for her gear🤷‍♂️. Hope. You fine what you want and enjoy it.
 
Forrest Gump said:
Hey there, lot of good point made about the different advantages between the 90’s/110’s.
If you’re going to do a bit of travel and need room hows about a Sankey size trailer for your camping kit. Free up loads of room too. I’ve used mine to camp too but as the lads on this have said you fill them pretty quick. If I take my missus camping I need an hgv for her gear🤷‍♂️. Hope. You fine what you want and enjoy it.
Click to expand...
Best way to camp is to camp light and wild then the kit required is minimal

40337bb8-a004-41cd-b0fa-f45d0e4bceb7.jpeg
 
Just brought a 90 Defender 300tdi, I have had a few landrovers over the years and have found this Engine to be the best, it probably took me about 3 months to find a nice one with a Galvanised chassis, I would advise you to look for the same with a galvanised chassis all ready on the vehicle and do an mot check, this can show you all sorts of useful info over the years.
Good luck.
 
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