Defender 300tdi Clutch - Help!

T'was the week before Christmas and all started grinding in the bl**dy gearbox...

We have had a slight issue with getting into reverse for a few weeks - you often had to stop the engine, select reverse and then start the engine again. Then first started to be a bit stiff, it didn't grind (neither did reverse) but you couldn't get it in. Now it has gone full apocalyptic, with fourth being hard (and starting to grind a touch if you get it wrong) and first being pretty impossible and all others tricky. When you are at traffic lights the car wants to creep forward. Trying to match the revs to make changing gear is hard, as the revs seem to stay up and slightly match the speed of car. However, there is none of the tell tale over-reving when accelerating, that I associate with a clutch going.

The clutch isn't all that old, 3 years maybe, as the clutch fork went (the old weak style) and was replaced with a HD fork and they put the new clutch in at the time. I have checked the clutch fluid and even though it wasn't low topped it up to be sure, but no luck. It feels as if only the pedal would go another inch all would be well... but maybe I am being optimistic.

It's our only vehicle and cannot put it into a garage at the moment. Any suggestions, even if they are only tied overs.

James

A good bleed of the system may do it, other choices is slave out and put a small distance piece
The pushrod, But it’s probably the clutch cover assembly springs starting to fail or oil on the clutch plate
Making it stick,

Could be slave cyl leaking into the bellhousing, either that or release bearing/pressure plate worn. I have seen a cheap release bearing last less than a week with a driver that ("I'm not touching it just holding my foot above it") was a serial clutch-rider

So just to check you can select gears no bother when the engine is off?

Can’t hurt to change gearbox oil and change clutch fluid.

Could well be something as simple as too much free play at the master cylinder pushrod.
Whip the tin cover off the top and you're looking to have some free play (2or 3 mm) before the pedal /pushrod moves the piston in the master. Any excess free play will give your symptoms.
Some models have a stop bolt on the front of the pedal box (mine snapped off) and I don't recall if that is used for pedal adjustment "down" or "up". If down- it might be stopping full movement of the pedal.