Defender 200 quick heater box question

fancy having a clean out of the heater to try coax a little bit of heat out.
I have read busters how to remove the box guide, seems fairly straight forward, however my question is.
If I get the box off this morning to clean but then run out of time to finish the job, can I still use it tomorrow without reassembly? I would like to replace seals etc.. But want to check what I need before I order parts.

Join the matrix pipes together by clamping onto a piece of copper pipe or similar

Good thinking just realised I'm off tomorrow as well so should be alright but if not will do that.
Thanks

Good luck with your heater challenge. I have tried everything to get more heat out of my 200 tdi Defender without much luck. Tried three different thermostats, Rad muff, Replaced the Visco's fan for a Kenlowe electric one, flushed out the coolant system, stripped the heater box. Renewed the Radiator and heater matrix. I have gone back and reinstalled the visco's fan and removed the Kenlowe, I'm waiting for the temperature to drop to see if the new heater matrix has made any difference. I don't think it has as even full on the heat coming out of the vents is only just warm.
Good luck.

It might be worth buying one of those infra red thermometers - I discovered my top hose was only at 60 degrees after a good run. As long as you can de-mist the windscreen, I'd just get used to it. I recommend a good insulated jacket for winter!

I have one of these which does help:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Volt-1...152028?hash=item1c5b60c1dc:g:p1YAAOxy4t1SjOKH
Plus a good warm coat, scarf and gloves.

If the Avatar is the beastie in question, the best heater mod I did to my 110 was to partition off the van body it made a huge difference keeping the heat? In the front.

That was my intention for the winter, to be honest in doesn't get too cold through our winters so I'm not overly bothered about getting it really hot.
I have never looked at the heater system up till now so just fancied giving it a flush and clean out to see if it makes much difference. If not I will but a nice new hat some gloves and a blanket for my legs!!!
Didn't get chance today so I will have a look tomorrow at some point

TheQ said:

If the Avatar is the beastie in question, the best heater mod I did to my 110 was to partition off the van body it made a huge difference keeping the heat? In the front.

Click to expand...

Out of interest what did you use to partition yours? Was thinking of a sheet of ply fixed behind the bulkhead

Buy some self adhesive foam sheet and aluminium self adhesive tape (the stuff sold to seal air conditioning pipes). I went around the entire heater box sealing every joint then stuck the foam around it (inside and out where you can) making sure the flap sealed when the lever came back. You also need to make sure that the lever inside is set correct so that full hot is actually making it full hot in the box. Also make sure there is no air escaping out of the exit of the heater into the engine bay rather than going into the in car heater pipes. My heater now works! There are other things that can be done e.g. increasing the air being pushed through but anything more and it'll get very expensive.

Thanks for that, cables should be easy to work on as they are not connected in the cab so just got to ensure they are set right on the box.

Tonym3 said:

Thanks for that, cables should be easy to work on as they are not connected in the cab so just got to ensure they are set right on the box.

Click to expand...

You can get all the stuff dirt cheap on ebay

Aluminium tape - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium...843029?hash=item3ab4592055:g:NHYAAOSw7NNUBtIu

Self adhesive foam - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-...241113?hash=item3ab34c8ad9:g:t4EAAOxy7odRzYrJ

Thanks for that will get some ordered up just going to do some measuring of my hole!!

Tonym3 said:

Out of interest what did you use to partition yours? Was thinking of a sheet of ply fixed behind the bulkhead

Click to expand...

I used 5 inch wide pine plank screwed to the top of the bulk head to push the partition back by that amount and another screwed onto the Cab side/ roof joins directly above it across the body.

Then I screwed 1x2 batons at the cab sides and just to each side of where the cubby box sits, between the top and bottom Planks forming 3 areas. The area Behind the driver was clad vertically on the rear side onto the 5 inch planks, using..... Wooden cladding .

The centre area a piece of clear perspex was fitted so I could still use the rear view mirror.

For the area behind the passenger I made a frame which is removable to fit in the space which was then clad with the cladding. The area above the horizontal plank attached the the roof side join was also clad with wood.
I'm now in the process of making a centre roof console to join the top plank to the roof above the visors.

I removed the headrests, and fitted 5 inch thick foam , between the top and bottom Planks behind the driver and passenger to act as new head rests which is better than the old neck breakers, and much more comfortable.

The top 5 inch plank forms a shelf in the cab which will hold speakers.
I used cladding because its a lot easier to measure and cut short lengths and fit them, rather than measuring up and wrestling in a large sheet of ply.
I'll add I'm diabetic and feel the cold badly these days, so i still wear hat and gloves!!!
Must fit the radiator muff soon to get it all to heat up quicker.