Other Decisions, decisions. What RR to buy, not to buy?

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Major Tom

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My 95 rover 4.0 died a quick and quiet death by smoke failure. Many miles - some health issues but overall it did well for 25 years. Then the wiring harness burned out and ALL the smoke leaked and we all know British cars need pressured smoke to run. So sad! I miss it.

I am looking for a more recent Range Rover, but there are various models and sub models. I am thinking Range Rover to haul a boat and give me a nice ride, not the smaller versions.

The questions are generally what models are better?

I am State Side and looking to spend up to $30,000 for a fairly recent model less for one in the pre 2010.

Are the Ford or TATA years better?

Are the Supercharged models better than not supercharged?

What general issues are to be expected from all models?

The air bags. How do you test for shock pillows failure? (the 95 cane used with shock over replacement)

What other questions should I be asking?​

Other than the standard inspections: fluids, rust, leaks, body work are things I should be aware? Note: I am mechanically competent and have many British sports cars over the years even to frame off complete rebuild, engine / wiring harness, shocks, transmissions, differentials etc.

Thanks for your advice.
M T
 
Best advice re buying a Range Rover is Don't, the newer ones are an electronic nightmare.
If you are a masochist and really want one, reputedly the later ones with the Jaguar engine are better.
 
I would go for a low mile 2012 or 2011 5.0 supercharged which should give you a good $10k contingency for a warranty or just funding anything that goes wrong yourself. My understanding is that the timing chain guides can go bad on these engines, so get one that has already been done. The gearboxes can throw up a lot of problems if the oil cooler isn't working properly too. I think fixing these later models without some expensive diagnostic kit is pretty much impossible.

You could stretch your budget and go for a high mile 2013 L405 with a warranty? You could also spend $10-15k on a show quality P38?
 
P38Tom said:
I would go for a low mile 2012 or 2011 5.0 supercharged which should give you a good $10k contingency for a warranty or just funding anything that goes wrong yourself. My understanding is that the timing chain guides can go bad on these engines, so get one that has already been done. The gearboxes can throw up a lot of problems if the oil cooler isn't working properly too. I think fixing these later models without some expensive diagnostic kit is pretty much impossible.

You could stretch your budget and go for a high mile 2013 L405 with a warranty? You could also spend $10-15k on a show quality P38?
Click to expand...
P38Tom.
I am familiar with the engine. It came as a 3.5 in my TR8 and has been swapped to a 4.6L and modified. Runs like an booster rocket. Easy to work on.

I was just wanting something with a bit more creature comfort and HP than the 95 4.0.. The 95 4.0 had issues with degradation of the vinyl trim, after 15 years it would just crack and occasionally disintegrate upon touch. the locks, the AC, largely electrical, the air shocks. Nothing Major just degradation till the smoke got out.
 
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I’d go for the 4.4Ltr TDV8 - the Ford engine. And look for a 2012 Autobiography or later - I have no idea what they cost your side of the pond - or the 5L petrol or supercharged.

I know fuel is cheap in your neck of the woods - but I get more than 30mpg from mine on average combined cycle - and my typical drive is short local town journeys, medium journeys on what you would call a lane, but we call A roads and B roads - and some motorway miles - a real mix.
 
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