Series 2 De-rusting series safari roof vents

honolulujoe said:

galvafroid has had good things said about it on here, looks shiny to start with but ages nicely and quickly

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I've been toying with the idea of Zinga.

Sold as "the best of the best" - spray can will cost me about 15 euros over here so not too expensive (7 euros in shipping though)

I've got a can of Zinga here, ready to do my axles (after the bolts etc. have pickled long enough in the molasses). I have history in the yachtbuilding business, and MGDuff who make it are the most respected name in cathodic protection - probably worldwide. I've been helped by their support team on several occasions and they've always been superb, and that's enough to convince me to use it.

I was talking to my father in law about de-rusting and I mentioned that I had tried vinegar. He said it will work but it does not stop at the rust and will attack the good metal as well, unlike the other stuff that just strips off the rust.

What I have noticed is that sometimes an object will fizz away in the solution and other times a different object wont but they do eventually clean up quite well.

boguing said:

I've got a can of Zinga here, ready to do my axles (after the bolts etc. have pickled long enough in the molasses). I have history in the yachtbuilding business, and MGDuff who make it are the most respected name in cathodic protection - probably worldwide. I've been helped by their support team on several occasions and they've always been superb, and that's enough to convince me to use it.

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Right - I'm definitely ordering some then.

Have they given you any surface preparation tips?

Datasheet is on their website, but the relevant bit for my major parts is to get the first coat on within 3 hours of blasting. I'll use it on minor bits that are very clean, but not blasted too, but they're of less concern. (Swivel housings and brake parts type bits). I recall that it isn't too picky, but the gold standard is blast finish.

boguing said:

Datasheet is on their website, but the relevant bit for my major parts is to get the first coat on within 3 hours of blasting. I'll use it on minor bits that are very clean, but not blasted too, but they're of less concern. (Swivel housings and brake parts type bits). I recall that it isn't too picky, but the gold standard is blast finish.

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Thanks I did find the website information

http://www.zinga-uk.com/product-range/zingaspray/surface-preparation

Goes on about S12.5 cleanliness

I wondered what the heck that was and found this =>

http://www.bcc-blasting.com/docs/Standard_for_Blasting_ISO_8501_1.pdf

SA2.5 is very clean with "slight stains spots or stripes" - one step lower than perfectly clean eat your dinner off that...

Because I'm not blasting as the roof vents are too thin I'm going to get things as clean as I can with the rust remover and then sand it all down with coarse sand paper (probably about 40 - 60 grit if I can find it in the bottom of the drawer) - degrease with U-POL - then wipe off the last bits with Eastwoods pre-paint stuff so I give the Zinga the best chance possible.

I think that the finish that chemically removed rust leaves behind is actually quite good for paint to cling to, so I wouldn't worry too much about lack of blasting.

OK I'll see how it goes thanks for the advice

Well nothing much has happened with this recently 'cos I've been off doing other stuff. The vents have been taken to bits - hinge pins removed and the last of the rubber seals removed. But since then they've just been sitting in the solution covered with a layer of sediment. I don't think there's much de-rusting going on now ('cos of the sediment) but it at least stops any more rust from forming.

I've got the Zinga in house so I'm ready to spray

I've just got to clean the parts before I get to that stage. Rubbing down with wire wool at the moment =>



If I wasn't going for the Zinga spray I wouldn't necessarily be using abrasives on the last of the galvanising coating...

Well I broke out the Zinga today.

I have a few bits that don't need any welding or remedial metal working - and I've been itching to see if this Zinga is going to be any good or if I would indeed have to go and get someone to hot dip the parts for me.

Pictures are not too great today but they give a bit of an impression of how it is all going.



The pictures above show (well are meant to show) that I've got the parts pretty clean after they've been sat in the Rustyco stuff.

I whizzed over with a bit of wire wool - sprayed off all the debris with brake cleaner - dried in the sun (which is confusing the auto-focus on the mobile phone camera today)




The Zinga goes on nicely from the spray can.

Weird stuff though - the instructions are to spray - wait until touch dry - then spray again.

Fine. But the entire underlay comes loose / goes wet for a second time so the drying times for the subsequent coats get longer and longer.

So far I've not applied enough coats to get the Zinga to sag! I've done four thin coats.

I'll take some better pictures later on to show the finished surface. I think it looks "quite believable" - quite like a new hot dipped galvanised surface.

G'day Folks,

I'm looking for advice and opinions of the Zinga results please. What do you think?

Here's a comparison of the colour of the Zinga with bright zinc plated washers that have gone a little bit manky.







It looks much more like spray paint than bright zinc plating. That's not such a surprise. I reckon the best comparison is going to be with the surface of something like zincor (zinc plated sheet steel). I'm just off to the Land Rover to see if I can find a bit - and perhaps get a bit of old galvanised something or other to do another colour comparison.

I didn't realise that you were hoping for a 'galvanised' appearance - I'm using it as a primer.

You'll probably need to use one of the paints that does that, but at least you'll have the comfort of knowing that it'll actually work because of the Zinga. I used some on a few new hooks etc. that I needed on my SIII and it looked OK for a few months before the rust came through

boguing said:

I didn't realise that you were hoping for a 'galvanised' appearance - I'm using it as a primer.

You'll probably need to use one of the paints that does that, but at least you'll have the comfort of knowing that it'll actually work because of the Zinga. I used some on a few new hooks etc. that I needed on my SIII and it looked OK for a few months before the rust came through

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Oh right - I was hoping with (what is it 98% zinc?) Zinga was going to be pretty close.

To be fair it isn't too far out.

Here's a comparison with the bright zinc washers again and a bit of Zincor on the Zinga surface =>



Well I'm off to the Eastwoods paint page to see if they have fake galvanised finish in a can...

I couldn't find an Eastwoods product but I did get hold of a paintman "Silver Galv" paint that seems to be a great improvement





The zinga finish is in the back ground

Zinga is not a cosmetic product and was never meant to look like galvanising. It's an alternative ZInc treatment that should last as long as hot dip. The odd thing is that mine is drying grey - no hint of blue - but I'm spraying from a gun, not rattle cans.

That is odd, I'm spraying it (Zinga) from a gun and it's definitely grey, no hint of blue.

You could try soda blasting fr delicate parts, it not as harsh as shot blasting

boguing said:

That is odd, I'm spraying it (Zinga) from a gun and it's definitely grey, no hint of blue.

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Well its a light grey in direct sun light

samc88 said:

You could try soda blasting fr delicate parts, it not as harsh as shot blasting

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I haven't tried soda blasting - seems incredibly messy and expensive to me. Shot blasting something like these roof vents would distort them.