De-cokeing

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B

Bob Hobden

Guest
So I now have the head off my 2.5 petrol (cast iron head) to replace the
valve stem seals, everything else seems in good order, but naturally I want
to de-coke the head/pistons while it's in bits. It's so long since I did
such a thing how do you do it? Chisel and great care, brass wire brush and
electric drill? Dremel?
Don't want to damage the pistons.
What is the best and/or easiest method to clean it all up ready for
re-assembly?

--
Regards
Bob


 
Bob Hobden wrote:

|| So I now have the head off my 2.5 petrol (cast iron head) to replace
|| the valve stem seals, everything else seems in good order, but
|| naturally I want to de-coke the head/pistons while it's in bits.
|| It's so long since I did such a thing how do you do it? Chisel and
|| great care, brass wire brush and electric drill? Dremel?
|| Don't want to damage the pistons.
|| What is the best and/or easiest method to clean it all up ready for
|| re-assembly?
||
|| --
|| Regards
|| Bob

Bring each piston to TDC in turn. Smear a ring of grease round the edge of
the piston (to stop any crud going down into the bore) and then scrape off
the carbon. Don't use anything metallic, as a scratch on the piston crown
could create a hot spot. I use a set of hard plastic scrapers meant for
delicate wood applications - a strip of hardwood sharpened to a chisel edge
would do. Finish off with fine wire wool to a nice shine. Light oil seems
to help the process. Don't do anything where the grease is, as you need to
leave a thin ring of carbon round the edge of the piston to help the seal
with the bore (at least, that's the accepted wisdom and I've always followed
it). Bring the piston back to TDC if it has moved, and carefully wipe away
the grease and crap. If there's a lot of carbon round the top of the bore,
you can use similar methods on that (while your grease seal is still there),
but again leaving a bit is supposed to help the piston/bore seal.

I would advise against using power tools, and leave things like chisels and
wallpaper scrapers back in the shed - you could easily do more harm than
good. The important thing is to leave a smooth regular surface on whatever
is left, as any "peaks" can start to glow when the engine heats up, causing
pre-ignition (pinking) or running-on after you switch off..

HTH

--
Rich
==============================

Take out the obvious to email me.


 

"Richard Brookman" wrote
> Bob Hobden wrote:
>
> || So I now have the head off my 2.5 petrol (cast iron head) to replace
> || the valve stem seals, everything else seems in good order, but
> || naturally I want to de-coke the head/pistons while it's in bits.
> || It's so long since I did such a thing how do you do it? Chisel and
> || great care, brass wire brush and electric drill? Dremel?
> || Don't want to damage the pistons.
> || What is the best and/or easiest method to clean it all up ready for
> || re-assembly?
> ||
>
> Bring each piston to TDC in turn. Smear a ring of grease round the edge
> of the piston (to stop any crud going down into the bore) and then scrape
> off the carbon. Don't use anything metallic, as a scratch on the piston
> crown could create a hot spot. I use a set of hard plastic scrapers meant
> for delicate wood applications - a strip of hardwood sharpened to a chisel
> edge would do. Finish off with fine wire wool to a nice shine. Light oil
> seems to help the process. Don't do anything where the grease is, as you
> need to leave a thin ring of carbon round the edge of the piston to help
> the seal with the bore (at least, that's the accepted wisdom and I've
> always followed it). Bring the piston back to TDC if it has moved, and
> carefully wipe away the grease and crap. If there's a lot of carbon round
> the top of the bore, you can use similar methods on that (while your
> grease seal is still there), but again leaving a bit is supposed to help
> the piston/bore seal.
>
> I would advise against using power tools, and leave things like chisels
> and wallpaper scrapers back in the shed - you could easily do more harm
> than good. The important thing is to leave a smooth regular surface on
> whatever is left, as any "peaks" can start to glow when the engine heats
> up, causing pre-ignition (pinking) or running-on after you switch off..
>

That's what I used to do, so nothing has changed then. :)

Only one of the valves needed gringing in because of a few marks the rest
were perfect which was rather lucky.
Done the head today, decoke, new stem seals, so it's the pistons tomorrow
then rebuild.

--
Regards
Bob H



 
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