P38A Cycling EAS

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awkwardbob said:
And j may be seeking your advice shortly too @kurtjohnson10 !
Have similar issues but way behind @Bertie Wooster on the diagnostics. Just swapping out a burst air spring and will go from there but have suspicions over the block as the PO said he’d rebuilt it but some of the other things they’d ‘rebuilt’ were a little suspect !

will work through the steps and revisit !
Click to expand...
No Problem mate, just let me know ;);)
 
Saw my name mentioned earlier in this thread. In this case, the single corner rising is almost definitely due to the 4" drop on the opposite corner.

As far as the Valve Block leak is concerned, I would suspect either the valve base o-rings, or the thin o-ring around the plunger sleeve. Either of these will allow air from the bags to leak.

The plunger end rubbers do tend to go hard over time, but generally seal quite well. I have tried sanding the Inlet & Exhaust plunger faces with noticeable improvement. The corner valves are different matter. There was somebody on RR.Net that replaced these with sections cut from a large 50x5mm o-ring but not sure how he fixed these into the plunger body.

I'm doing a long term test to re-soften the plungers using Wintergreen Oil & IPA. They are definitely softer after 24 hours, so will be trying them in a valve block this weekend.
 
I had some rubber components (the red square seals in the top of the eas compressor) when I sprayed them quite liberally with light silicon spray. When I took them out they were pretty hard and looked.... well... rigid so I figured a little spray of silicon spray would help me re-seat them when the overhaul was done.... and boy did it ever work. I had to wait 2 days for the seals to shrink back to a size where they would even fit back into their grooves.

Might be an avenue worth exploring with the plunger ends?
 
DarthDude said:
I had some rubber components (the red square seals in the top of the eas compressor) when I sprayed them quite liberally with light silicon spray. When I took them out they were pretty hard and looked.... well... rigid so I figured a little spray of silicon spray would help me re-seat them when the overhaul was done.... and boy did it ever work. I had to wait 2 days for the seals to shrink back to a size where they would even fit back into their grooves.

Might be an avenue worth exploring with the plunger ends?
Click to expand...
I would be wary of introducing any substances into the eas system. New non return valves the way to go.
 
This is for the plunger ends which you can't buy. The NRV orings are included in any kit so those are easy.

I'm pretty sure silicon spray or grease is fine for the viton orings. The valve block I just replaced from my car was rebuilt in 2012 and lasted up until last year so the silicon grease and spray I used during that rebuild obviously didn't damage the orings I fitted back then too badly. Besides, scuba guys use silicon grease and spray all the time on their equipment.

Petroleum based vaseline might be a different story, but I've only ever used silicon.
 
DarthDude said:
This is for the plunger ends which you can't buy. The NRV orings are included in any kit so those are easy.

I'm pretty sure silicon spray or grease is fine for the viton orings. The valve block I just replaced from my car was rebuilt in 2012 and lasted up until last year so the silicon grease and spray I used during that rebuild obviously didn't damage the orings I fitted back then too badly. Besides, scuba guys use silicon grease and spray all the time on their equipment.
@kurtjohnson10 can supply new nrv's,don't know if he will send them to KL.
Petroleum based vaseline might be a different story, but I've only ever used silicon.
Click to expand...
 
Good to know. I'm really glad I found this place. Lots of knowledgeable enthusiastic owners willing to share and help out.

I might even hold on to The Solihull Horror a few more years at this rate!
 
If you pulled the relay delay timer ;) and it went down, you are sure there are no leaks in the lines/bags, then most likely NRVs are shot Kurt will sort you out.
You can test your diaphragm as in wammers tech section thread wouldn’t hurt while you are in there
 

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Thanks Rangeroller dt. No leaks on bags or airlines because I've blown the bags up with Schrader vavles on the valve block end of the lines and all was good. I haven't changed the NRVs so that will be next, hoping to get a kit from Kurt. I have changed the diaphragm but not tested it. I'll take your advice and see if I can find where wammes is writing about it. Cheers.
 
Morning all,
No luck yet but am still working on the EAS problem. I'm waiting to hear back from kurtjohnson10 so no new nrvs yet but I have had the valve block apart once again and can see no problems. Last night, with the relay under the seat removed, the rear bags both fell around 3.5in while the front two pretty much retained their height. No leaks in the air bags, air lines or connectors so I'm sure the valve block is the problem.
Does a 3.5 inch drop for both rear wheels suggest any particular valve or solenoid in the valve block I should look at even more closely?
Soapy water round the solenoids I can get access to (the upper ones) also shows no leaks ad I haven't detected a leak from the exhaust port although a I may not have found it if it was very slow.

Thanks.
 
P
Bertie Wooster said:
Morning all,
No luck yet but am still working on the EAS problem. I'm waiting to hear back from kurtjohnson10 so no new nrvs yet but I have had the valve block apart once again and can see no problems. Last night, with the relay under the seat removed, the rear bags both fell around 3.5in while the front two pretty much retained their height. No leaks in the air bags, air lines or connectors so I'm sure the valve block is the problem.
Does a 3.5 inch drop for both rear wheels suggest any particular valve or solenoid in the valve block I should look at even more closely?
Soapy water round the solenoids I can get access to (the upper ones) also shows no leaks ad I haven't detected a leak from the exhaust port although a I may not have found it if it was very slow.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Have you got Schrader valves on straight connectors so you can pump up each rear bag separately and leave overnight?
 
Hi Grrrr, thanks for the idea. And yes, I have got some and have done that. Connected them to the airlines at the valve block, pumped the bags up and they held the air overnight. So I'm fairly certain that there are no leaks in airlines or bags, hence thinking the valve block is the problem.
 
To get to the lower solenoids take the whole lot out of the box and mount temp (bits of string and gaffa tape) so you can then get to the lower ones to test:)

J
 
Bertie Wooster said:
Hi Grrrr, thanks for the idea. And yes, I have got some and have done that. Connected them to the airlines at the valve block, pumped the bags up and they held the air overnight. So I'm fairly certain that there are no leaks in airlines or bags, hence thinking the valve block is the problem.
Click to expand...

I'd be tempted to ask @kurtjohnson10 if he has a spare valve block for sale. He had a new one in the sale section not long ago.
 
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