CV joints or driveshaft replacement ?

Well that didn't take long for you to find that

Anyhoo, continuing on again...

Eventually the thing moved but I reckon over an hour a side for me but more heat is the key I reckon. Copper slip in the bore and must use new torx bolts and torqued them up. Had to drop the steering arm back in to stop the hub spinning while tightening the bolts.
Edit - something that i thought of after doing the first side but then forgot to try when doing the second side bottom ball joint was to cut off the two lugs on the old bottom ball joint while it is still in place and then using a large socket or some sort of spacer to go over the tapered threaded part and then wind out the ball joint using the nut, just an idea...





Clean up the spline and fit a new snap ring and boot (I turned mine inside out and pushed as far up the shaft as possible to give more room to see the circlip) and load up the grease into the new joint by moving the inner race to its max travel in lots of different directions while forcing grease into the ball races and balls etc. wipe a clear area where the spline goes in so you can see the circlip to start it, sorry didn't get a phot.

Push the CV joint up until it touches the circlip where it will stop.
Get a flat screw driver and while putting the joint under a bit if pressure inwards, push the circlip into the groove to give it a start as although it says to give it a tap, that won’t work with the driveshaft in place as the inner joint just compresses. Once the clip is seated, the CV joint will then tap home until it clicks into place and cannot be pulled back off again.

I used the old hub nut to pull the spline all the way through the hub and then replaced the hub nut just hand ratchet tight as I had to torque this up with a small amount of weight on the wheel to stop it turning
Fix the CV boot clips in place using old style pinchers or CV pliers.



Cleaned up the taper faces in the hub for the ball joints, loosely fitted the bolts in the subframe for the suspension arms, put the ball joints in place and torqued them up leaving the subframe bolts just nipped up. the arms and ball joint came with new nuts and i also replaced the nut on the steering ball joint.



I replaced my brake pads, wear sensor and ABS sensors; purchased a large g clamp form B&Q to push back the caliper after removing a little brake fluid from the reservoir to stop it over flowing when returning the piston. i also ordered as a backup a 34 piece brake caliper piston rewind set off ebay for about £15 which you can see in the pic but the g clamp worked just as well.



I also fitted new anti roll bar drop links, and take care when undoing the top bolt as there is a washer that stays with the ball joint on the old drop link which needs to be transferred onto the new one and the same way around for some reason that i couldn't see.



Disc back on, back plate and dinner plate washers back on and caliper, wheel back on.

Lowered the car on to the wheel to stop it turning and then ‘torqued ‘ up the hub nut. Now my torque wrench only goes up to 250 nm and rave states 420Nm, so I calculated using my weight (mass) of 88 Kg multiplied by acceleration due to gravity which is 9.8 m/s2 to give 862 N. The required torque is 420 Nm. So if I am correct in my thinking I should position myself just under 0.5 metres from the pivot point, I actually calculated 487 mm) along my breaker bar and stood on it with all my weight to torque it up. Now it’s a while since I drank my way through college so that could be total bollox but the wheels are still on for now.

I dove the car up onto my two stage sleeper system to give me some clearance, lowered the car to normal height and torqued up the inner suspension arm bolts to 165 nm I think but check rave and then gave them another ¼ turn after marking the nuts / bolts. Now that sounds easy and I do have a pretty long torque wrench but that extra quarter turn is a lot when you are lying under a car with a breaker bar that is just too long in every position but I managed it using my torque wrench that has a ratchet.



Now I am bound to have missed something and this is my first attempt at writing something up and generally I was smothered in grease so picking up my camera was tricky at times and I do get a bit stressed when things are proving very very awkward .
Hope this is of use to somebody and feel free to point out anything that requires editing.

This is by no way a full and accurate account of how to do the job so if you are unsure, get some help or take it to a garage that knows as these are fairly critical parts to change.

The Rave manual is by far the best set of instructions to follow and also has all the correct torque settings.

In other words, if you follow this and your wheels fall off don’t blame me, I am just must telling a story…………

Nice write up HC, Im still weighing up wether to wait for my boy next week or tackle my outer CV joint my self. Worth noting my boy has full garage facilities and I have the roadside. Question....pushing the driveshaft through the hub, Would a standard hub puller work or do I need a proper LR tool ?

I have managed to duplicate some of the post there, must have been having a turn!
I have to say, I am not sure how much was actually wrong with my outer CV joints and if you have the option of a garage with a ramp then take it for sure, especially this time of year although not far from when i did mine, the days are short though without proper lighting,
i think there is a proper landrover tool to push the driveshaft through the hub that i was tempted to make that fits into the wheel bolt holes and has a central pusher, even hydraulic ones are available but from reading my own post i cracked the nut with the wheel on the ground and then removed the wheel. i then backed the hub nut of maybe 1/2 to 1 turn and put the hub nut socket back on the main driveshaft / hub nut and gave it a good wack with my lump hammer and then tried to wind the nut back on, if it wont go then the driveshaft has started to move. i then repeated undoing the nut 1 turn and giving it a good whack again with my lump hammer and tried again to wind the nut back on and it wouldn't move so the driveshaft was moving. i kept doing this until i ran out of thread. i then took a piece of wood and hammered the wood end on against the end of the driveshaft until it was flush with the hub and then a smaller piece of wood that would fit through the spline and carried on. i squirted my wd40 specialist release spray up the spline for general encouragement and by now it was moving quite freely so just tapped it the rest of the way through.
be prepared for a bit of a scrap!!

Thanks Hc. I managed to get some credit last night by running to the rescue of the boy who was struggling to remove the fan on a E46 330 He was doing a private job on. Good old dad still has in his possession the water pump locking spanner fabricated from Saints drawing from his water pump photo story - so technically, Range Rover to the rescue ! So long and the short of it, I'm going for the path of least resistance. Also give me a chance to play with the big new £8000 snap on diagnostics centre- it looks the tits !

Definitely a good idea as we are looking at rain all next week from sunday and dark by 4, you would need to be as mad as me to start that job in the street at this time of year
Let us know how you get on

The thing is, I still think I'm that 18 year old that changed the gearbox on my mk1 Capri laying on my back in
The snow. But now I think about it, that was 30 years ago. The mind is willing if nothing else

Yep, i remember snow, just, test driving my MK3 Escort (I had just progressed from my mk1 that i still have most of), in about a foot of it having fitted a new Kent CVH22 high lift camshaft, and the excitement certainly kept out the cold but again that was probably 25 years ago when i was 20 with a good heart and antifreeze for blood
As with most things, it is starting the job now that is the hardest part

In a leaky shed with my mates, lapping in valves on a Marina week before Christmas 85 with a decent carpet on snow. Only the front 2 feet of car in the shed. Trying to get collets back on the valves when you can't feel anything from the elbow down.
Would have felt colder if I'd been sober. The joys of being 17.

It doesn't get much better than that, I wouldn't mind being 17 again though.

I remember lifting the engine and gearbox out of my mk 1 as a complete unit to change the clutch with an A frame as it was easier than trying to take the gearbox out on its own on a sloping driveway.
We put it all back together and then looked down and saw 2 clutch release bearings on the floor
All out and back in complete with the clutch bearing the second time in about 30 minutes as we hadn't connected fuel and electrics and there are only 2 bolts for the engine mount and about 4 for the gearbox I think.

The Escort mk3 engine swap to a 1600 we dropped the complete engine and box onto the floor and jacked the body of over the top and dragged the engine out, took no time at all.

Not quite so simple on an L322 but i actually don't mind working on mine, even the M62 engine was quite simple to get apart thanks to the amount of instructions available and stripping down the transmission was relatively simple again with the right advice but i am not sure I would like to get my spanners out on anything newer though..
The L322 is nice and big with big spanners and breaker bars but everything is so bloody tight and heavy

Agree. Look at most cars now and they might as well say "No user serviceable parts within".
I'm no spanner-magician but I like to have the option.

i think it comes down to parts availability as well, a lot of the newer cars are made so cheap that it isn't even worth a dealer repairing an engine just throw it away and put in a new one

Well dragged the old girl down to the boys garage last night to swap out the CV joint. What an eye opener ! all this about Land rover tool Lrt this and Lrt that yadda yadda, what a load of tosh. I have severve mis-givings about Rave to.
Hub nut was off in a jiffy with the Snap on battery impact driver, front lower arm off (nut off and clout with hammer ) steering link off (see front lower arm) drive end of cv joint through hub with air hammer, gaitor cut off and two good wacks and the joint is off.
I was expecting all kinds of trouble but I just stood back and had one of those "thats my boy" moments. All in just over an hour old one off, new one on. Boys a legend.

Eagle eyed will note the missing strap holding the gaitor onto the joint - probably what aided to its demise.

Good news, about the same as when I did mine,hang on, did you say 1 hour or 1 day??

Reading with great interest here as I am replacing the ABS rings , Did I miss the answer to the question of , how do I pull the driveshaft through the hub , to finish the job please.

I just made sure the internal and external splines were very clean and greased and pushed it through enough to see the threads and then carefully wound the old hub but on while make sure there was not any significant resistance. I tughtened up using the old nut and then removed it and torqued up to the 1 million Nm with the new one and then knocked the tabs down

holidaychicken said:

Putting the Cv joint back on, it wouldn't pop over the circlip and i hammered away until i decided to turn the cv boot inside out, wipe away some of the grease i had just applied so i could actually see the clip and then i could actually give the clip a start in the spline and then it popped on really easily, but the manual says to just give it a tap !!

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IrishRover did a good piece on CV joints that I shamelessly plaguerised for my P38 CV boot replacement write up.

You've done a lot of work. I didn't see it before. It's great for you to share your experience! It's very helpful to me. Thanks!

No bother, message me if you are stuck, I struggled a lot and both sides were different in how the CV joint came off but the difference between impossible and easily popping off was minimal !

holidaychicken said:

No bother, message me if you are stuck, I struggled a lot and both sides were different in how the CV joint came off but the difference between impossible and easily popping off was minimal !

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Yes, i will get back. You are right. that between impossible and easily. i will try. Thanks again!

That write up is good news for me I'm doing my cv joints on my p38 and your write up and pic will help a lot I'm in no hurry for the car so can take my time for parts I replace when I got the funds thanks again