Cut and Shut chassis

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frostythor

frostythor

Well-Known Member
Posts
611
Location
NEW FOREST
HI all have a busy few day, my disco failed it test, rust hole in the chassis at the back, so ordered a new section. several choices, I decides to replace the back section
so I have to drain the tank, yes it was full , but by jacking up on the filler cap side as high as I could I syphoned it all out , possible the worse bit to do
I first chopped off the rear cross section, to reduce the weight , when the new chassis arrived measure up the chopped the two sid legs to length


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well all finished now had a few extra bits to do but the fit of the new section was very good

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the new bit fitted well, did a trail fit, removed it cleaned up the original sections were it will weld on the refitted it and bolted it up in place


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All ready for welding now
 
Nice Job Maestro ;)

I hope you blasted inside all your box sections, I use clear waxoyl mixed 25% with engine oil like a gallon per side, I like to put rubber bungs in the low down holes, fill 'em up and drive some, up and down real steep hills braking and so forth so it gets everywhere inside all the box sections, then can remove the bungs to let the excess drain out :)

I drill a 12 mm hole in the bottom of the " U's " too

Where I live, stuff rusts over night, honestly no exaggeration, I waxoyl the arse outta everything, sill cavities, chassis, pipes etc, do all my cars when I first get 'em then they get re done every 2 - 3 years ................

Always best to leave them in a dry warm garage before waxoyling if poss, or do it after a warm weather spell so there is no trapped moisture ;)

It really does work very well ;)

Of course if you live in middle England you'll likely not have such issues as we do, my current D2 purchase aside, all my Cars have been bought from the central belt, Heilan cars are buggered after a few years unless treated ;)
 
Dave2302 said:
Nice Job Maestro ;)

I hope you blasted inside all your box sections, I use clear waxoyl mixed 25% with engine oil like a gallon per side, I like to put rubber bungs in the low down holes, fill 'em up and drive some, up and down real steep hills braking and so forth so it gets everywhere inside all the box sections, then can remove the bungs to let the excess drain out :)

I drill a 12 mm hole in the bottom of the " U's " too

Where I live, stuff rusts over night, honestly no exaggeration, I waxoyl the arse outta everything, sill cavities, chassis, pipes etc, do all my cars when I first get 'em then they get re done every 2 - 3 years ................

Always best to leave them in a dry warm garage before waxoyling if poss, or do it after a warm weather spell so there is no trapped moisture ;)

It really does work very well ;)

Of course if you live in middle England you'll likely not have such issues as we do, my current D2 purchase aside, all my Cars have been bought from the central belt, Heilan cars are buggered after a few years unless treated ;)
Click to expand...

I didn't think people used Waxoyl any more! I have a can here of black, never opened it as I heard it either doesn't work, or can actually make matters worse. Interested in your thoughts? (PS I also bought some Bilt Hamber Dynax UB
 
john snoo said:
as I heard it either doesn't work, or can actually make matters worse.
Click to expand...

That's because folks use it when the Vehicle is still wet / damp inside all the boxes and seams etc, then it traps the moisture..................
Hence I said must be done after a good spell of hot weather unless you are lucky like me, my Double garage is insulated and heated and my workshop is also heated, yeah it costs me, but is great, I am in NW Highlands where everything rusts and serious water falls outta the sky ;)

I have mostly all Snap On gear plus tons of electronics, (Dealer Level Diag Machines) and Programming kits in my workshop, heating that is tax deductible, I can't have the weather / climate destroying that lot ...............
The bonus is if I leave a vehicle on the lift for 2 nights with Cars windows open it is completely dry, like bone dry ;) It is very hot up in my roof apex where a lifted Car goes ;)

The other thing is by thinning Waxoyl with cheapo Supermarket Engine Oil it runs right into all the welded seams etc ;) Don't be tempted to use old used Engine Oil that is corrosive from the combustion by products.

I don't use the Black Waxoyl so can't comment really.

I use Clear which remains sticky like runny grease when mixed with 25% Engine Oil ;)
It definitely works in our area, many guys do it, our area is surrounded by seawater and our roads are seriously salted 24 / 7 in winter, we are in Inverinate, back onto Loch Duich, (IV40 Postcode), and many friends on Skye and in Kyle of Lochalsh, Plockton, Glenelg etc ;)

Those that haven't had their Cars etc treated, they really do fall to bits, I don't even like working on 'em, Bolts always have the heads rusted off or seized solid etc etc ;) I'm talking 4 to 10 year old cars here ;)
Some old folks who don't use their Cars often actually have 2 to 3 sets of brakes per year, and I only fit decent parts, Mintex, Delphi or Factory if the customers Car is less than 5 years old, I don't want all the hassle if parts go wrong ;)

I don't mind using cheaper stuff like Britpart on my Disco 2, but even that has got Mintex Discs etc going on it ;) Things like the Bump stops etc well they are just consumables lol ;)

HTH

Cheers Dave
 
well Dave sound like you has it all in hand, I have had mine going on 15 years now and that was the first major job I did on it so cant complain
 
Dave2302 said:
That's because folks use it when the Vehicle is still wet / damp inside all the boxes and seams etc, then it traps the moisture..................
Hence I said must be done after a good spell of hot weather unless you are lucky like me, my Double garage is insulated and heated and my workshop is also heated, yeah it costs me, but is great, I am in NW Highlands where everything rusts and serious water falls outta the sky ;)

I have mostly all Snap On gear plus tons of electronics, (Dealer Level Diag Machines) and Programming kits in my workshop, heating that is tax deductible, I can't have the weather / climate destroying that lot ...............
The bonus is if I leave a vehicle on the lift for 2 nights with Cars windows open it is completely dry, like bone dry ;) It is very hot up in my roof apex where a lifted Car goes ;)

The other thing is by thinning Waxoyl with cheapo Supermarket Engine Oil it runs right into all the welded seams etc ;) Don't be tempted to use old used Engine Oil that is corrosive from the combustion by products.

I don't use the Black Waxoyl so can't comment really.

I use Clear which remains sticky like runny grease when mixed with 25% Engine Oil ;)
It definitely works in our area, many guys do it, our area is surrounded by seawater and our roads are seriously salted 24 / 7 in winter, we are in Inverinate, back onto Loch Duich, (IV40 Postcode), and many friends on Skye and in Kyle of Lochalsh, Plockton, Glenelg etc ;)

Those that haven't had their Cars etc treated, they really do fall to bits, I don't even like working on 'em, Bolts always have the heads rusted off or seized solid etc etc ;) I'm talking 4 to 10 year old cars here ;)
Some old folks who don't use their Cars often actually have 2 to 3 sets of brakes per year, and I only fit decent parts, Mintex, Delphi or Factory if the customers Car is less than 5 years old, I don't want all the hassle if parts go wrong ;)

I don't mind using cheaper stuff like Britpart on my Disco 2, but even that has got Mintex Discs etc going on it ;) Things like the Bump stops etc well they are just consumables lol ;)

HTH

Cheers Dave
Click to expand...

Dave, I know EXACTLY what you mean! I am in bottom tip of Cornwall and I think here, and where you are, are probably the worst places on earth to run a car unless you're fond of rust! We have salt blowing across daily. Sea spray goes up and the prevailing (strong) SW winds bring it right over us. Most mornings you can wipe the moisture off a car windscreen and feel the salt, and taste it if you fancy a try! I was welding the other day, in SUMMER of course, lovely and warm outside. I welded a piece onto my trailer in the yard, wife said dinner's ready. I buggered off for no more than 15 minutes, came back and it was bright orange with rust. All my tools rust out in no time, I don't have heating but I built a workshop inside a workshop inside a barn, which seems to keep most salt away, but still it rusts badly in winter. I Have pots of grease everywhere, paint brush in, and top half of a coke bottle on top to keep dust out. I pull the brush out constantly to keep stuff smeared with grease. I also use 50% Vaseline mixed (warm) with 50% olive oil, and lightly smear some tools, guns and stuff with that, works quite well.

I may give waxoyl another go, certainly on mowers and stuff as they rot out for fun too!
 
My D2 Project thread is now lifted off ;)

Steering box is out and drop arm off plus Drag Link, Damper etc, track rod is loose but left on atm to take a measurement before swapping for new and tracking it all ;)

I'm hoping to have the entire front end done including all Brakes and CV boot right side and Axle seal the left side plus perhaps the rear Brakes too by Monday eve ;)
 
Dave2302 said:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/daves-d2-td5-project.372156/#post-5185408

Waxoyl I spray it into cavities and onto underside, brake pipes, etc, just about anthing metal except Exhaust System ;)

I use a Schutz Gun, and have made up a tube with a nozzle that sprays it out in all directios so you can really douse inside those box sections, inner sills etc etc :)
Click to expand...
Thanks Dave. If you have a pic handy I'd love to see one. I need to make something similar and never done it. /
PS how long do you make your hose to get down inside chassis members?
 
Last edited:
It's just a regular Schutz Gun which I made up a tube to fit it. I kept a used 1 litre Schutz Cartridge, washed it out thoroughly with thinners and fill that with Waxoyl / Oil mixture

Tube is 22", I just blast it in at around 90 psi through any available holes in the chassis, drill a few if needs be, with 22" tube you'd only need an M9 hole every 3 ft or so ....



Nozzle detail, it fires the fluid in all directions ...



There is a tip shown here so you can unscrew the tube and screw the tip in and spray external chassis, axles etc etc as well ....

 
Oh BTW John .............

I meant to say, regarding your signature ................

The secret to every good welder is a good selection of Grinders and Grinding Wheels :D :D :D
 
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