Crunchy Reverse ...

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Gofish

Gofish

New Member
Posts
172
Location
Cornwall, near Padstow
My reverse gear has all of a sudden has gone crunchy, when trying to select.

( 1986 2.5N/A )

All my forward gears are fine.


I've tried putting it in 1st, and 2nd before selecting, but doesn't make much difference.

If the trucks pointing forward uphill, then it appears to select a lot easier:confused:.

Sometimes it selects OK, but mostly not:(.

There has been a hell of a lot of water around here recently, and one flooded bit of road, that I enjoy blasting through:eek:

I was wondering if water has dryed up the linkage?

I'm going to do a oil change on both boxes, as soon as the bloody rain stops!

I have auto gear oil for the mail box, and manual gear oil for the transfer box.

What is the capacity for the transfer box? As I've only got 1 litre of manual gear oil

I would appreciate any help.... as I HATE crunchy gears:mad::mad:

Thanks

Marc
 
fairly normal. your going to need more than 1 litre mate. and your trany box takes EP90. i think main box (not mail box) is a little over 3 litres and trany box a little under 2litres.

change the oils and see how it goes...

sounds like your Reverse cog may be worn or your just being a new landy owner and not used to it!

G
 
Could you please tell where the drain, and top up bolts are on my gearbox?

I had a very quick look today... but couldn't see anything obvious.

What are folks using as a repair manual?

I'm not too keen on getting Haynes, as I've found then pretty useless in the past.:(

Got the oil changed though.:) but with the gale force winds bloody oil has gone everywhere, including covering my face:mad:.

But hay... with some lovely 20w/50 the Landy is running a lot sweeter.

Also, how do you get oil in the diffs?

There's no room to pour the lube in!:confused:

I wondered about rigging a funnel with a hose pipe extension:rolleyes:

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
This is what happened to mine, then it completly gave up the ghost and no gears could be selected, then my gearbox got taken out at the weekend. However don't worry about this yet!

If everything is in order, putting it into 1st or 2nd before putting it into reverse will stop it, if not then the clutch is dragging it round again.

It happened to me about a year ago as well and the cause was the master cylinder failing, it could also be yours slave these leak INTO the bellhousing so its not easy to see if its leaking. Basicly your clutch is NOT releasing properly, and causing drag on the gearbox thus reverse (no syncro) is crunching, I would start by bleeding the hydraulic system it could be air, then if it still happens I would check your push rod adjustment, if there is a lot of play before anything happens it could be you need to essentialy change the point at which the rod is engaged on by the pedal.

Next thing would be seal kits from paddocks/craddocks and rebuild your master and slave £1.95 each so not a big spend, put it all back together and try again, if its still like this then your going to have to drop the box, and just replace everything in there, its worth it!
 
ATF goes in on the right hand side of the gearbox, and there is a 1/2inch square plug sticking out the side of the main gearbox casing, it sticks out a good 3/4 of an inch so you cant miss it. As for the drain points, there is a BIG nut on the box, that is your filter and some will drain from there, there is another one along a bit that drains the main case.

The transfer case takes EP90, this goes in the back of the unit, up beside the brake drum, the drain is on the bottom and is quite obvious.

Funnel and tube is a good idea with an assistant to pour a measured volume of oil in, or one of these big 750ml suction tube things with a flexi pipe on them.

Diffs take EP90 also, and are filled from the 1/2 square drive socket on the front of the front diff, back of the back diff and the drain is on the bottom. Carefull when removing the filler as its set on a piece of thin tin and can break if its in bad condition. Gently tighten it if you can't get it to loosen first, this will help break the rust seal and let you take it out. ALWAYS remove the filler first, this way if you can't get it off you havn't already lost all your oil.
 
Thanks Discomaina.

Thats really helpfull, and usefull advice.

I'll start doing some checks this weekend.

How do I check the pushrod adjustment?

There's a fair amount of play on the gearstick, would this be causing a problem?

I'll taken the gaiters off, and noticed there's a lot of wear on the aluminium housing, where the two big springs are ( that hold the gear shift ball)

It's a bit fustrating because sometimes, mainly when the truck is just
started, it just slips into reverse no problem - but most of the time it's an effort to get to engage, and crunches on doing so.

The other gears are fine - if a bit vague:rolleyes:

Thanks again for your help.
 
Funnily enough , just by changing the position of the gearstick has made a difference.

There's an occasional crunch, rather that a permanent crunch.

Still got my oil change to do.

And I may change the seals on the clutch Slave.

Disco mentioned checking the adjustment on the push rod.

How do I do that?

Thanks

Marc
 
Discomania fixed his crunching gears eventually ... it was traced to a very unsual failure in the diaphragm spring clutch cover, but we didn't find that out till we took it all to bits.

The fulcrum ring (a 10" circle of bent fence wire) had come clean out of place, meaning that one full stroke of the clutch pedal would not quite release the clutch.

We took the engine out on Friday and replaced the clutch cover and fitted a heavy duty centre plate while we were about it.

Works great now, and that is one tough son-of-a-clutch he's got now.

CharlesY
 
Well... finally replaced my master cylinder, and slave cylnder, with new units.

This has made a difference to my 'crunchy' reverse problem. Initally it was just about cured...

It over the last couple of weeks I have noticed when the engine is fully warmed up, It still sounds like it's grinding the hell out of reverse, and you have to really jam it in to make it select.

I've taken to turning the engine off, selecting, and turning the engine on again.

I try to select 1st and 2nd before trying to select reverse, but still no good.

Actually , I notice that 1st and second become awkward when the engine is warm:confused:

When the engine is cold, no problem.

I would appreciate any more thoughts on this.

Thanks.
 
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