Crank no start

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T

Thill

New Member
Posts
2
Location
West Virginia
i have a 2009 Range Rover HSE
While coming to a stop it died. Now cranks but no start. It has fuel pressure. It gave me a fault code of U0167. The light on top of the dash never lights. I am thinking immobilizer . I am wondering what is the most likely component I have tried another key that did work before.
 
As much as your model is later than mine I had the same issue on my P38 it turned out to be the crank/cam sensor, all was good came to a junction and died. Would crank but not start. after about 30 mins fired up fine drove another few mins did the same. Got the beast home on the back of a low loader fitted a crank/cam sensor and all good.
Hope that helps but as said a different model but the symptoms sound the same.
 
On your diagnostics, you should have a reading on the live data when you turn the engine over.
It should read a sub idle engine speed while cranking.
Most vehicles use the crank sensor to provide the rev counter a signal.
 
Mark Piercy said:
True, that doesn't make sense to me as a belt can slip?? A flywheel can't.
Click to expand...
Belt slip is a possibility but producing an accurate low end rev reading at 1 pulse per rev is actually not that easy, for a while I did make simple digital rev counters for F750 club racing cars so have some experience. The alternator produces a much easier to handle higher frequency.
 
Datatek said:
Belt slip is a possibility but producing an accurate low end rev reading at 1 pulse per rev is actually not that easy, for a while I did make simple digital rev counters for F750 club racing cars so have some experience. The alternator produces a much easier to handle higher frequency.
Click to expand...
Spoken like a true electronic wizard and very impressive.:cool:
 
Gunnerhavesome said:
As much as your model is later than mine I had the same issue on my P38 it turned out to be the crank/cam sensor, all was good came to a junction and died. Would crank but not start. after about 30 mins fired up fine drove another few mins did the same. Got the beast home on the back of a low loader fitted a crank/cam sensor and all good.
Hope that helps but as said a different model but the symptoms sound the same.
Click to expand...


that makes sense after I started thinking about it the code and some other codes about no commutation between modules were most likely from low voltage when I cranked until battery was low. when I charge battery cleared codes they never came back.I don't have a scanner just a code reader that will read very limited live data. more investigation tomorrow. I just retired so plenty of time no hurry.thanks again
 
Mark Piercy said:
Spoken like a true electronic wizard and very impressive.:cool:
Click to expand...
Actually not so clever, the rough one I made for my car worked a treat, trouble is other club members wanted one and I find it hard to say no, so I made a small batch. Others did not want to use my trigger system of a perforated alloy disc on the crank so it had to be triggered from the ignition, so only one pulse ever other rev off the HT or one per rev on the LT, it worked on some ignition systems but I never managed to make it idiot proof for all the different ignition systems, so some were happy and some were not.
 
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