Cracked pipes 300tdi were should they go?

I have a P reg Disco 300TDI which starts, sounds and runs like a bute..
However, it has alway been underpowered up hills and in high gears (its an Auto too)
I have done the following....

Full serivice, oils and all filters etc...
Turbo is creating boost...picking up boost gauge in 15 mins.


My bigest issue is this..

I've read a few posts about the pipe from the pump that has boost pressure on it so it knows when to thro in more fuel (and to me it seems like a not enough fuel issue at high end or under boost) but when I follow this pipe it goes all the way arounf the back of the engine under the air box and to something under the jack..can see it but feels like a motor???

This had cracks and splits etc which i've gone thro and replaced or cut ends off to get rid of the splits.
Then there is another pipe which cames off the brake servo..that joins it..this must be vancume then??
Then there is another that comes off the crouse control "widget" (sorry not sure what it is called) this too had splits and goes around the back of the engine with a little thin pipe going to a small motor thing with another pipe comming off it going to the EGR and another to the side of the air box...

Then, yet again, there is the wastegate...
Small pipe from the wastegate itself to a tee piece on the turbo outlet where the other off the tee goes up to yet another small motor looking thing on the bulkhead with nothing else in...

Some of the above maybe wrong as not sat in front of the engine the computer...but basicaly you see my issue...

I realy need to know exactly what pipes go where and from what to what...

I'm convinced its just plummed up wrong because a previous owner has been fiddling...

But so many other threads have sead follow the pipe from the back of the turbo to the fual pump...and I do not have a pipe from the back of the turbo to the fual pump..so summats wrong...

Help with Pictures would be a real help or if anyone is in the BOLTON manchester area and has the same disco so we could compare that would be great???

Its that or a Haynes manual...which I may just invest in anyway...

Thanks

29 views and not one reply....

Bugger.

Forgot to mension its a fly by wire with Air flow meter and ecu etc..

Help please....

Just came in to work via motorway and it will do 70 but realy lacking power up hills etc...

Also done the Sediment filter under rear of chassis had a bit of sludge but wasn't bad and made no differance.

Picked up the Boost gauge so will fit that "loosly" so I can monitor boost but think thats ok and the pipes expand when revved.

Gotta be summat simple me thinks...

Nothing??

Can you take a pic or few and post em up so we can see ?


.

Rossy said:

I have a P reg Disco 300TDI which starts, sounds and runs like a bute..


My bigest issue is this..

...the pipe from the pump ....when I follow this pipe it goes all the way arounf the back of the engine under the air box and to something under the jack..can see it but feels like a motor???

.....

Click to expand...

I'm sorry, but I couldn't plough all the way through your post. However, you are getting your pipe tracing muddled up behind the engine.
The pipe from the fip goes to the turbo charger, when the turbo blows more it applies pressure to the diaphragm in the top of the fip to allow more fuel in.
The pipe that goes

under the air box and to something under the jack..can see it but feels like a motor???

Click to expand...

is from the t piece in the pipe that goes from the brake vacuum pump to the brake servo and is something to do with the egr system...which has probably been ripped out.

You started by saying

I have a P reg Disco 300TDI which starts, sounds and runs like a bute..
However, it has alway been underpowered up hills and in high gears (its an Auto too)

Click to expand...

Well, compared to a manual Disco and many other cars auto discos do feel underpowered, there could be nothing wrong with it, you may just have to learn to live with it

.

I'll get pictures later.

Right, there is a pipe (which I renewed) from the wastegate (about 2" long) direct to the turbo on the outlet side i.e. boost side. There is then another 1" inch rubber pipe right next to it that then goes into a very thin plastic one that goes upwards to a motor or sensor on the bulkhead that has an electrical socket on it.
As for the others I am probably a bit mixed up as was going off memory so will double check when I take the photos.

I apprecate its an Auto but its deffo under powered...off the mark its not to bad but some hills 30mph is your top speed unless you've managed to build up speed beforehand. I plummed the boost gauge on under the engine bay and there is deffo boost so I'm convinced its a fueling issue.
Maybe the Lift Pump? I've seen a few posts sugesting this but none that actualy say that they changed it and it cured the issue.

It could be the lift pump...could also be the fuel sedimenter (do a search on here), could also be turbo hoses delaminating and collapsing internally, could be the little pipe for the turbo to the fip leaking, so when the turbo boosts it isn't telling the fip to deliver more fuel....no doubt other people will have suggestions...

Richard Martin said:

It could be the lift pump...could also be the fuel sedimenter (do a search on here), could also be turbo hoses delaminating and collapsing internally, could be the little pipe for the turbo to the fip leaking, so when the turbo boosts it isn't telling the fip to deliver more fuel....no doubt other people will have suggestions...

Click to expand...

Done the Sedimeter (see 2nd post) Turbo hoses checked and ok...as for the pipe you're on about whats the FIP because as I explained mine the one with a air flow meter and there is no pipe from the waste gate to fuel pump...which I think you are on about.

FIP = Fuel Injection Pump

OK all pipes plumed up right as Bought a Haynes Manual..
So whats favourite Lift pump or the "Turbo Charger boost pressure sensor".
Being a air flow and ecu Diesel this sensor must be what controls fuel? i.e. in place of the pipe that goes from turbo to fuel pump on the none ecu diesels, which would be why I did not have one hense the confusion.
I have also removed the intercooler (quite an easy job bar being a bit fiddly getting the bottom pipe from around the fan case) but I've cleaned it out and replaced the bottom hose as was a little weak and thus suspect.
But its still the same.
Engine light did come when I got it, but because the cruise control is faulty. But with it disconnected (fuse pulled) engine light goes out so I'm "guessing" its not detecting any other issues. Also an Indy LR garage stuck there computer on and it only showed an error on Cuise control..
They also said they are just underpowered...but I'm still convinced there is summat wrong...30mph flat out up hill near me is wrong it not even that steap!....thats with foot to just before kick down, if you floor it all the way it jumps to I guess 2nd from 3rd and just revs more but still 30MPH.
Yet it will do 70mph on motorway all be it takes 3 days to get there!!

HELP>>>>PLEASE>>>>>

I wish I knew someone local who had the same so I could test drive and compare or the other way around...

I just hate not knowing if there is something wrong or not...

Rossy said:

HELP>>>>PLEASE>>>>>

I wish I knew someone local who had the same so I could test drive and compare or the other way around...

I just hate not knowing if there is something wrong or not...

Click to expand...

Well maybe, if you put your location in your profile someone local would volunteer

Update...I've updated my profile I live in Sharples Bolton nr manchester.
I'm thinking I may as well change the lift pump now as the continuing process of ilimination.

Ordered a new lift pump....fingers x'd!

OK fitted new lift pump...not had chance to test drive as got blocked in on the drive by Wife with our two kids and could not be bothered swapping them all around, so well see how it is in the morning..however...

I'm 98% sure I fitted the new one as the old one re the two pipes yet they were obviously the wrong way around as when I tried to bleed it, it seemed to be sucking in air from the bleed screw hole on top of the filter housing.
I swaped them around and it bled up no problem..started ok after a few spins..and does seem to rev quicker...maybe just wishful thinking tho.. :~)

So if the old one was plumbed up the wrong way could it have still run?? I.e. is there enough flow from the other pump for me to have been driving it like this? I maybe wrong tho..

Anyway, as long as its cured I'm not bothered...will let you all know tomorrow!

Fingers x'd yet again...

BTW was realy easy changing the lift pump..for those that are thinking of doing it DIY.
Also mine came with two collors and two new threaded ends..so did not have to cut the old collors off the old pump to get the old threaded ends off!

Boo hoo...still the same realy slight improvment..
Do they have a sensor that detects when the engine is warm as realy underpowered when cold then improves when warm..maybe to protect the turbo?

What else could it be? Begining to think I'll have to live with it as said...

May change the "turbo boost pressure sensor" if I can get one from a breakers to rule that out?

What about throttle sensor?

id look at the air flow meter or even the boost pressure sensor

if the ecu is getting the wrong reading from one of them, like think its got less air goin in it will put less fuel in, giving a lack of power

WOW update...and you wont believe it....
There was a fuse blown...which I knew about..however someone has been messing because I thought it was just for the crouse control and with the fuse in the engine would not stop with the key out of the ignition so I took the fuse out again.
This morning I thought I'd try driving it with the fuse in and OMG its so fast!!
So I'm going to have to sort out why the engine still runs after the ignitions off...but at least I'm on the right track!!
Thanks for all your help...