Corrosion...

Ok Guys, before you say it, I know there is no stopping it.

I have a 98 Series I Discovery 300Tdi. It's doing surprisingly well for a modern Landrover, it's only had 2 new back doors a new set of front wings and a paint job. After all it is only 9 years old... Ahem!

However, I am caught in an awkward corner. The vehicle is tidy and runs well, it's just done a round trip of Europe and the only problem I had was a wheel a certain garage didn't put on properly. Good state structurally and drive chain. The corrosion is starting to show through the paint again though, blistering above the rear wheel arches, along the edges of the panels, etc. Sacrificial corrosion in most cases I think, or cheap nasty build quality... I have it on my 24 Year old SIII, it has an excuse, but it's not as vigorous as on my Discovery!

Does anyone have a way of slowing it down? The Rear wheel arches were patched up only 6 months ago and already the paint is blistering again. The only suggestion I have had so far was to replace the entire rear wing, this is at a cost of £400+ per corner for the wing alone. So I am basically looking at 1K+ by the time it's sprayed, etc. I might pay significant money if I thought I could get a few years out of the investment, but as it stands I spend money and in 6 months it's back. Any tried and tested methods of dealing? (Apart from buy a Mitsubishi! )

Cheers,

Rob

afew year back thur wur a thing that put a small leecy current thur yer steel car body and it wur supposed to slow down rust by making the electrodes fitted rust instead. its selling point was that it was used on oil rigs and other aquatic things(not snorkels) that are subjected to lots of salt water.
dunno if it wur any good nor if its still available.
but thats wot the internet is for. to find these thing sout!!

i found this site; i know its in NZ but its gives you an idea wot am is on abart

How does RustStop work?

Sacrificial anodes are commonly used in boats, usually steel built ones but they are usually fitted to the cast aluminium leg of outboard motors too. Never heard of one being fitted to a car but I suppose it might work.

Thass juss like the anodes i had on the bottom of my boat. It stopped the metal pitting. Wuss sum sort of chemical reaction wiff the water or summink. Ahm juss a meek wummun, so i dus'nt unnerstand such 'tecknicol' fings. I'll go back to scrubbin the floor...

hammerite's about best. but as y landy body panels are aluminium (ALLOOMINUM) if y a yank...y need to clean the white powder off (aluminium oxide) back to clean metal...hammerite em then spray y colour on top.. also y need to cover any steel parts that touche the aluminium with a ruddy good coat of hammerite too..as steel causes a reaction with aluminium..go figure LANDROVER metalurgists..this has only been know bout two hundred years since we started mass producing STEEL..
this will slow it down somewhat but will never stop it for good its sadly not possible. a lot of the problems are down to design, water etc n **** get to places on a disco where they dont on other cars..inside rear door arches etc..
gives me somat to do on a sunday tin of smoothrite brew n some fags..

fook if the things dint rust or corrode they'd nevva sell replacments as we all know dented landy panels dint get replaced

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info, I had come across the sacrificial anodes and wondered if anyone would have tried them. I dunno if I fancy a lump of Magnesium in my car if it catches fire, but then if it's on fire I have other problems and the games over anyway! lol

I do wonder why the new landies corrode so much faster than the old ones, one can only guess the panels are thinner and not so well made...

If anyone finds a manufacturer of steel wings, or fiberglass ones please gimme a yell!

Rob