Correcting the steering wheel

Well, as some of you may of read previously. My landies tracking right, but the steering wheel isn't on straight!

To sort this out, I removed the cover, and the bolt from the centre, and started tugging, to try and put it back on the splines straight!

It wouldn't budge!

II thought that I put a piece of thin (but strong) metal over the main bolt and two 10mm bolts through this metal and into the two small holes either side of the main bolt. As I tighten, it should come off.

Anybody reckon it won't work, or have some reason why I shouldn't do this?

I'm trying not to trash my landy

just loosen the main bolt (so you dont hit yourself in the nose when it comes!) put your knees under the wheel and pull like ****...if that doesnt work get a mate to hit it with a hammer whilst you pull.

mmm, first count the turns of the wheel then find the true mid point. is it straight now? if yes, then you need to adjust the front tie rod to get the wheels straight. if no, get the wheel off as previous post... but leave the nut on unless you want a good bruise or bloody nose..

Bloody nose, here I come!

The only problem is, my left hand isn't as strong as it used to be. So the knees idea sounds good.

Get a strong piece of flat bar about 3 or 4 inches long. Drill two holes in it the same distance apart as the holes in the steering wheel and get 2 short m6 bolts and screw them into the wheel. The wheel will slide off the column with no problems and no brute force needed.

What i think you are saying should work, ive seen these on ebay a while back.

there basically a flat piece of 3/4mm plate with m6 bolts going through which screw into the wheel. There is then a bolt that threads through the plates centre and when turned clockwise gently pulls the wheel off the splines.

Ollie

olmasters said:

What i think you are saying should work, ive seen these on ebay a while back.

there basically a flat piece of 3/4mm plate with m6 bolts going through which screw into the wheel. There is then a bolt that threads through the plates centre and when turned clockwise gently pulls the wheel off the splines.

Ollie

Click to expand...

Don't even need the extra bolt as the plate sits on top of the column. (I leave the nut on to avoid damage to the threads.) as you alternately tighten up the bolts they pull the wheel up and it off the column.

Dont use a hammer!

There is even a message in the middle of the steering wheel that says this! It damages the collapsible joint in the middle of the steering column.

Take out the tie rod ball joint from the wheel and screw it in some more.

Counting the turns won't tell you the true mid point, cos that is limited by the stops on the swivel housings.

The steering wheel is on the shaft in that position, which is dead ahead for the BOX. why else does the drop arm have locator splines on it...

Screw the ball joint in or out a bit of the tie rod, to compensate as required.

Have ye tried takin' the top uj off the collapsable steerin' shaft (with the wheels straight ahead) and then turnin' the wheel straight and stickin' it back together yet?

buckshot said this the other day. When i changed mine, the shaft had flats in it so it would only go on one way, or the bolt wudn go through!

If you drive with your hands off the wheel does the landy drive in a straight line?

NO: You need to make adjustments to your steering system as Boydy said, OR your steering box has been adjusted so that it won't self centre - fix this, your tracking could be way out or a brake could be badly binding.

YES: Take the steering wheel off and set it straight.

I had the same issue wih trying to get wheel off . . used wheel puller, hammer (only lightly though - honest!!) and in the end, a little wd40, leave the nut on and pull like fook!!!!! comes off eventually - well, mine did

Drives in a straight line with hands off wheel, yes, but don't tell the cops!

Right, undo the big but a few threads, with your hand tap the wheel from behind firmly at the 12,3,6,9 o'clock positions, then pull it like fook, do it again and after about 5/6times it should come off, if it doesn't then use a small hammer or rubber mallet. (they say no to because you can A crack the wheel, its a cast sort of thing, OR you can cause the collapsable joint to collapse, but small blows will not cause either.

If all else fails, use a puller (after spending a long time without a puller on a pulley once, I realise it's sometimes quicker just to go and one in the first place!).

I made me a puller to try to remove mine, as described above. Piece of quarter inch steel, two bolts in the holes, i then used a big bolt with a nut on it to push on the steering column.

Bent both the thinner bolts (8.8 hardened) to about 45 degrees, steering wheel still didn' come off!

Poor sod has got a fooked hand and ya'r all telling him to get a grip of the wheel and pull it orf.

Al he needs to do is get a bit of flat bar drill 2 6mm holes in it, that line up with the holes on the wheel. put 2 bolts thru the bar and screw em down in to the wheel when the bolt heads are tight against the bar and the bar is tight against the steering column. then tighten the bolts alternately and the wheel will come off.

Well, I'm off to give it one more go with the hand and a rope between my teeth! heehee jokes

10 minutes and I'll tell you how its gone. If not, its drill and bolt time tommorrow!

lil-landy got distracted, and came upstairs just to tell you that on the garage floor is the steering column in pieces. steering wheel still attached. Might just put it back together and make a wheel puller...

Steering column back together. I'm a bit all over tonight. I took it apart, forgot what I did it for. And started on the wheel puller but got bored. Lots going on atm. Might play with it in some down time tommorrow at work.