Correcting my mistakes.. steering questions!

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ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90

Active Member
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953
Over the last couple of years, I've worked on the steering on my 1995 90, and now I think problems are arising from my mistakes. The problems of late are:
-Wheel wobble at speed
-Vague steering
-Pulling to either side when braking hard
-indicator not canceling correctly
-steering lock doesn't work as it should

Mistake 1: When I first got the vehicle, the drop arm was scrap, so i removed the old and refitted, and just shoved it on, totally unaware of centralising the steering
Mistake 2: Once the new drop arm was on, I noticed the steering wheel was off centre, so I removed the wheel and repositioned it on the spline
Mistake 3: Since doing the above, I replaced the lower steering column UJ's because they were worn and Knocking badly, with the box not centred.

So basically, before throwing anymore money on potential causes for my issues, I want to make sure the steering is set up as it should me.

So where should I start? How does this sound...

Remove the drop arm again, turn the steering to right lock, back 2 turns and refit the drop arm.
Adjust the drag link so the wheels are in the straight ahead position?

Then how do I go about getting the top half correct?

Many thanks guys, another case of little knowledge and learning from my mistakes again.
 
Just did this. Undo the clips on the steering bar, if it isn't seized you can twist it in the same manner as the tracking rods to centre it. Be mindful if you need to unseize it that the drop arm end has a left hand thread. Get it off by using a hammer as an anvil with another banging it it then copper grease it and re-attach. The vibration at speed is tracking and wheel balancing so get to a garage and get it done there.
 
From memory I think the drop arm has a master spline, Im sure I can remember it when replacing mine.
I reckon the way to see how far out it is, is to jack the front end up and count steering wheel from lock to lock.

Have you checked the callipers arent partially seizing or the pads in the carrier? also worth checking wheel bearings for play, excessive play knocks the pads away from the disc.
 
centre steering box first. there is a hole under it that when centred a drill bit can be passed through, then set steering wheel to straight
 
The drop arm can only be fitted on way, it has a double spline bit.

There is a hole a 9.5mm drill bit (IIRC) will fit in at the back of the drop arm, use this to c stealing your steering then adjust the drag link to get the steering wheel straight (or move the steering wheel).
 
Thanks for the replies chaps .

I had the tracking done a few weeks back, it seemed better for a couple of days and then back to wheel wobble again. 55mph is quite bad.

Calipers are only a couple of years old at the most, so is the rest of the brake system.

You may have seen my other thread, but my steering box is weeping now too.
I'm still a little confused, the pegs on the back of the drop arm are there to lock the steering in the central position, and if I can get a 9.5mm but in there it means the box is centered? If it was that easy why doesn't it say that in the workshop manual? The manual (which I've now read when it's too late) also states to mark the drop arm on the splines to ensure it goes back in the exact same position, so I've always thought I've put it on 90 degrees out or something. Same applies with marking the lower UJ 'S on the splines. I didn't do either.
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Thanks for the replies chaps .

I had the tracking done a few weeks back, it seemed better for a couple of days and then back to wheel wobble again. 55mph is quite bad.

Calipers are only a couple of years old at the most, so is the rest of the brake system.

You may have seen my other thread, but my steering box is weeping now too.
I'm still a little confused, the pegs on the back of the drop arm are there to lock the steering in the central position, and if I can get a 9.5mm but in there it means the box is centered? If it was that easy why doesn't it say that in the workshop manual? The manual (which I've now read when it's too late) also states to mark the drop arm on the splines to ensure it goes back in the exact same position, so I've always thought I've put it on 90 degrees out or something. Same applies with marking the lower UJ 'S on the splines. I didn't do either.
Click to expand...

Proper size for pin is 3/8" . ;)
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Thanks for the replies chaps .

I had the tracking done a few weeks back, it seemed better for a couple of days and then back to wheel wobble again. 55mph is quite bad.

Calipers are only a couple of years old at the most, so is the rest of the brake system.

You may have seen my other thread, but my steering box is weeping now too.
I'm still a little confused, the pegs on the back of the drop arm are there to lock the steering in the central position, and if I can get a 9.5mm but in there it means the box is centered? If it was that easy why doesn't it say that in the workshop manual? The manual (which I've now read when it's too late) also states to mark the drop arm on the splines to ensure it goes back in the exact same position, so I've always thought I've put it on 90 degrees out or something. Same applies with marking the lower UJ 'S on the splines. I didn't do either.
Click to expand...

What manual you reading?

Mine doesn't say that, and the drop arm deffo has a master spline I changed mine a few weeks ago. I 'think' the ujs on the column do aswell, but that was a couple of years ago I did those
 
flat said:
What manual you reading?

Mine doesn't say that, and the drop arm deffo has a master spline I changed mine a few weeks ago. I 'think' the ujs on the column do aswell, but that was a couple of years ago I did those
Click to expand...

The manual I'm reading now is the Rave workshop manual. Shame I'm now reading it after I've done the job haha.
 
johnlad said:
centre steering box first. there is a hole under it that when centred a drill bit can be passed through, then set steering wheel to straight
Click to expand...

Thanks John. I've just removed the drag link, the rave manual then says, turn the steering to full LH lock, then back 2 turns. I've done that, but the notch on the drop arm doesn't line up to put the pin through to the box. Why?
 
because full lock to lock is 3 and 3/4 turns, with notch and hole lined up box is central you then set steering wheel at center,either at 1 of the ujs (usually 3 of the uj ends have a flat and so can only fit on in one position the other has a groove running right around the shaft enabling adjustment) or removing steering wheel and resetting,if you go for a drive you will see how road wheels are by the steering wheel if it isnt center you note were wheel is park up with steering wheel in that place ad adjust drag link to put steering wheel at center,then another test drive it might take a few to get spot on
 
jamesmartin said:
because full lock to lock is 3 and 3/4 turns, with notch and hole lined up box is central you then set steering wheel at center,either at 1 of the ujs (usually 3 of the uj ends have a flat and so can only fit on in one position the other has a groove running right around the shaft enabling adjustment) or removing steering wheel and resetting,if you go for a drive you will see how road wheels are by the steering wheel if it isnt center you note were wheel is park up with steering wheel in that place ad adjust drag link to put steering wheel at center,then another test drive it might take a few to get spot on
Click to expand...

Right I get you thanks for that James. So following the rave manual turning it to LH lock then back two turns with the drag link removed isn't as good as putting a pin through the drop arm?
 
jamesmartin said:
pin is more accurate or going from lock to center half of 3 a 3/4 turns which is 1 and 7/8ths
Click to expand...

Ok. So why when I turn to LH lock and back two turns then fit the drag link which is 926mm as per rave. The wheels aren't pointing anywhere near straight, they are turning right.
I then straighten the road wheels, the notch lines up through drop arm.

I don't get the rave, if I've done what I said my wheels should be pointing straight.

So basically ditch the workshop manual, it's contradicting, use the notch in the drop arm and go from there?
 
ditch rave,align box with pin or 1 and 7/8ths turns from either lock, set steering wheel then set road wheels as i previously stated
the preset measurement can only be a rough guide with the great variances of tolerances etc between different vehicles,which is why track rod ends have so much adjustment
 
jamesmartin said:
ditch rave,align box with pin or 1 and 7/8ths turns from either lock, set steering wheel then set road wheels as i previously stated
the preset measurement can only be a rough guide with the great variances of tolerances etc between different vehicles,which is why track rod ends have so much adjustment
Click to expand...

Perfect thank you James and everyone who helped. Bl**dy rave manual didn't half confuse me.

Let's home getting it centered will improve the faults I have.
 
flat said:
When you have the pin in the drop arm so it's centred it will 'look' off, that's how it's meant to be so don't worry
Click to expand...

The road wheels point straight ahead when the pin is in. It's when I follow rave and turn the steering wheel 2 full turns from LH lock that if looks way off.
 
No I mean the drop arm itself will look a few degrees off dead ahead towards the nearside but that's how it's meant to be with the pin in.

I made he mistake when I had mine totally in bits of setting the drop arm perfectly dead ahead and setting everything off that, I ended up with uneven turns locks to centre each side.
 
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