coolant level

hello gents;
coolant level while the engine is at normal running operation must always be on the mark?how come over pressurizing will push the coolant down to the bottom of the tank instead of up and ejecting it from the tank?
i know i need a new engine but i am trying to understand something in the process.

The coolant level must be on the mark when engine is COLD. It may well be above mark when hot.

and when it is way under it, it means what dear friend?,and when i open the cap to release the pressure it will go way up when engine is hot (i know i shouldn't do that) but it likes it lol.so the opposite is happening while hot it is way down under the level,how pressure is pushing it down instead of up?

jorjio_k said:

and when it is way under it, it means what dear friend?,and when i open the cap to release the pressure it will go way up when engine is hot (i know i shouldn't do that) but it likes it lol.so the opposite is happening while hot it is way down under the level,how pressure is pushing it down instead of up?

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Is your car overheating, is it blowing water out of vent.

wammers said:

Is your car overheating, is it blowing water out of vent.

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the temp gauge is always at center or 2 mm above it,i know the liners have slipped,i am waiting for an engine to replace it,hoses are pressurizing and rock hard,it is driving me mad,the cooling system has been overhauled entirely,and the heads skimmed and gaskets changed,i am just trying to understand how pressure isn't making the coolant overflow from the tank instead it is pushing it down way down,and i top it up with a liter of water every 2 days,unless coolant is getting into the cylinders that is way the level gets low coz the coolant is consumed,but y as soon as i release some of the pressure the coolant will go up to the mark and hear the water burbling in the radiator?

jorjio_k said:

the temp gauge is always at center or 2 mm above it,i know the liners have slipped,i am waiting for an engine to replace it,hoses are pressurizing and rock hard,it is driving me mad,the cooling system has been overhauled entirely,and the heads skimmed and gaskets changed,i am just trying to understand how pressure isn't making the coolant overflow from the tank instead it is pushing it down way down,and i top it up with a liter of water every 2 days,unless coolant is getting into the cylinders that is way the level gets low coz the coolant is consumed,but y as soon as i release some of the pressure the coolant will go up to the mark and hear the water burbling in the radiator?

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The pressure in the header tank is pushing the coolant down and expanding the hoses. The pressure prevents the coolant from boiling, if you release the pressure the coolant will boil internally in the hot block. You will then get your burbling as steam makes it's way around the system. Maybe there is not a lot wrong and you just have a knackered expansion tank cap that is not venting properly. You should be able to get the system static tested to see what pressure builds up when engine is hot. That would comfirm your slipped liners leaking. Also test the cap which should vent at just over 15 psi. If the cap is not venting that would give you your hard hoses. If you had leaking liners i would expect coolant to be expelled pretty soon after warm up. If you have it must be very minimal.

wammers said:

The pressure in the header tank is pushing the coolant down and expanding the hoses. The pressure prevents the coolant from boiling, if you release the pressure the coolant will boil internally in the hot block. You will then get your burbling as steam makes it's way around the system. Maybe there is not a lot wrong and you just have a knackered expansion tank cap that is not venting properly. You should be able to get the system static tested to see what pressure builds up when engine is hot. That would comfirm your slipped liners leaking. Also test the cap which should vent at just over 15 psi. If the cap is not venting that would give you your hard hoses. If you had leaking liners i would expect coolant to be expelled pretty soon after warm up. If you have it must be very minimal.

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cheers my friend,i have replaced the cap with a new one with 140 written on it from the bottom,with this cap coolant was being venting while the hoses were barely under pressure,thought it was a duff one,i replaced with another one (current),and like my old one, hoses were pressurizing,but i am adding coolant and for sure there is no leaks it was tested for that,the mecanic said that liners have droped just a little tiny bit,but the engine is smooth no tapping at all,please help me figure out what is happening,a tiny slipp in the liners is enough to change the block right or wrong?

jorjio_k said:

cheers my friend,i have replaced the cap with a new one with 140 written on it from the bottom,with this cap coolant was being venting while the hoses were barely under pressure,thought it was a duff one,i replaced with another one (current),and like my old one, hoses were pressurizing,but i am adding coolant and for sure there is no leaks it was tested for that,the mecanic said that liners have droped just a little tiny bit,but the engine is smooth no tapping at all,please help me figure out what is happening,a tiny slipp in the liners is enough to change the block right or wrong?

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If they are not leaking. No not a good enough reason. If it goes properly knackered change it, if not. Leave it alone. Get the proper cap. See what happens. Suppose if you want to spend your money you can do.

wammers said:

If they are not leaking. No not a good enough reason. If it goes properly knackered change it, if not. Leave it alone. Get the proper cap. See what happens. Suppose if you want to spend your money you can do.

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thanks wammers,of course no one will spend his money just to spend it,but there is defo a problem,coolant is getting lost and it isn't from the cap,i am surprised how the o rings of the heater are not leaking yet with all that pressure (wish i didn't say that).so no leaks at all,heads skimmed,gaskets replaced all over,coolant is going somewhere right?

the air at the top of the system when heated will expand more that the water thus pushing it down in the header tank

checked the coolant now to find out that there isn't any.great it is getting worse now,it is a matter of days i guess.

jorjio_k said:

checked the coolant now to find out that there isn't any.great it is getting worse now,it is a matter of days i guess.

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Do what has to be done then. Is it insured for fire?

wammers said:

Do what has to be done then. Is it insured for fire?

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it is a waste of fuel,i'll wait to dry the tank first of it,then i will torch it,it isn;t giving me a chance,i am trying to save the fekker and she is giving up on me,ferk it i will replace the engine and get done with it,then after it the air compressor it is starting to clatter now after replacing it a year ago with a second hand one and there is no air leaking,it is coz the damn roads on my country need active suspension all the times,now the inhibit switch is on for eternity

jorjio_k said:

it is a waste of fuel,i'll wait to dry the tank first of it,then i will torch it,it isn;t giving me a chance,i am trying to save the fekker and she is giving up on me,ferk it i will replace the engine and get done with it,then after it the air compressor it is starting to clatter now after replacing it a year ago with a second hand one and there is no air leaking,it is coz the damn roads on my country need active suspension all the times,now the inhibit switch is on for eternity

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Doesn't sound like your having a good time at the moment. Is it worth saving?

wammers said:

Doesn't sound like your having a good time at the moment. Is it worth saving?

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You tell me wammers,this is the list of what i have replaced since owning it:
Brake modulator
air compressor
2front aitbags
hg+skimming
all hoses
tstat
rad
vc fan
heater matrix
hevac unit
sunroof tracks
radio
fuel regulator
fuse box
tires
front wheel bearing and hub
steering damper
alternator regulator
battery
filters and oils all over
brakes discs and pads
4 shocks
ball joints
windshield
wipers
becm minor repair
plus alot more of minor things
the problem is that i love driving her and i got used on driving a rr so driving back a car is akward for me unless it is a.bmw a e39 maybe!!!

jorjio_k said:

You tell me wammers,this is the list of what i have replaced since owning it:
Brake modulator
air compressor
2front aitbags
hg+skimming
all hoses
tstat
rad
vc fan
heater matrix
hevac unit
sunroof tracks
radio
fuel regulator
fuse box
tires
front wheel bearing and hub
steering damper
alternator regulator
battery
filters and oils all over
brakes discs and pads
4 shocks
ball joints
windshield
wipers
becm minor repair
plus alot more of minor things
the problem is that i love driving her and i got used on driving a rr so driving back a car is akward for me unless it is a.bmw a e39 maybe!!!

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Only you can decide mate. Sometimes it is better to say enough is enough. If you lived over here would be able to get a decent short motor, if you did the work yourself, get it sorted for £500.00-£600.00 using your ancilleries. If you have to get a garage to do it, then it would not be worth doing in my book. Specially on a 95 which won't be worth a lot other than to you.

wammers said:

Only you can decide mate. Sometimes it is better to say enough is enough. If you lived over here would be able to get a decent short motor, if you did the work yourself, get it sorted for £500.00-£600.00 using your ancilleries. If you have to get a garage to do it, then it would not be worth doing in my book. Specially on a 95 which won't be worth a lot other than to you.

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You are right pal,
today in the morning i went to check the level it was on the mark,felt happy after that i saw it empty yesterday night,i turned the engine on and the coolant disappeared again,toped it up with a liter.what in the hell's name is going on,i could swear that this car is posessed damn it,damn the fecker i was so ****ed of from it that i stepped on the gaz in nutral to just blow this engine off and it didn't blew off,i am gonna burn it i swear i will.

jorjio_k said:

You are right pal,
today in the morning i went to check the level it was on the mark,felt happy after that i saw it empty yesterday night,i turned the engine on and the coolant disappeared again,toped it up with a liter.what in the hell's name is going on,i could swear that this car is posessed damn it,damn the fecker i was so ****ed of from it that i stepped on the gaz in nutral to just blow this engine off and it didn't blew off,i am gonna burn it i swear i will.

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You need it static testing as i said earlier that will tell you a lot. Can't help you from here though.

I'm happy to leave the coolant side of your problem to those on here that have the knowledge(!) but I'm puzzled by the liner movement angle. You say your mechanic states that 'the liners have dropped slightly' but you say that there is no tapping. (a) liners tend to slip individually rather than collectively & (b) you would be aware of a metallic tapping at piston speed as the engine starts to warm up, or when it reaches running temp. depending on how long since the problem started. As far as I am aware a liner doesn't move & then remain in one place(!) once it's loose it's carried up & down the bore by the piston hence the tapping sound.

Ok let me rephrase what he said upon removing the heads and skimming them and replacing all the the gaskets along with it:
the po previously had placed new liners on the same block,he said that all the liners were slipped barely but after the.job done on the heads he assured me that the block is good to go for at least a couple of years.
The system was leaking from almost every hose including the o rings of the matrix.after that the heads were done and hoses replaced pressure has increased and it is normal (as he said) due of shortening the compression chamber by skimming the heads.i changed the cap today and it isn't venting the pressure coz i believe it isn't passing 14 psi (how can i know)?wammers suggested a static test and i don't know what that is,but it was pumped while warm till 17 psi and the needle didn't drop after it.now it is consuming coolant but nothing is getting thrown of the tailpipe
I do have a slight missfire though in the morning and after starting it when left after a drive for 2hours.