Confusing EAS faults

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Nipper4761

Member
Posts
34
Some months ago, possibly more than a year, I got the dreaded EAS hard fault and was dumped on to the bump stops. Since then, I have replaced 3 air bags, I have refurbished the compressor 3 times (second time because I wasn't confident I got it right the first time and third time because the bits I received for the second job were crap) and I have just replaced the valve block and driver pack having already refurbished the original. In between all these jobs, I had it on shrader valves so I could at least use it. I thought I had it sorted when I changed the valve block because although it was very slow to lift, it did at least lift. Yesterday, I drove 40 miles from home and 35 miles out, it dumped me on the bump stops again so is back on shrader valves...again. I have been all over the system looking for leaks...nothing. The compressor appears to provide a good output pressure. The system has no white powder or water in it (dryer refurbished). I downloaded the diagnostic programme, bought the cable and plugged my laptop into the OBD socket and can reset the EAS. When I ask for faults I get a mass of confusing contradictions such as all the valves are stuck open and stuck closed at the same time. I am now seriously considering putting it on normal springs but the (lapsed) mechanic in me wants to find and fix the problem. Can anyone out there help me...please. Thanks, John
 
Some months ago, possibly more than a year, I got the dreaded EAS hard fault and was dumped on to the bump stops. Since then, I have replaced 3 air bags, I have refurbished the compressor 3 times (second time because I wasn't confident I got it right the first time and third time because the bits I received for the second job were crap) and I have just replaced the valve block and driver pack having already refurbished the original. In between all these jobs, I had it on shrader valves so I could at least use it. I thought I had it sorted when I changed the valve block because although it was very slow to lift, it did at least lift. Yesterday, I drove 40 miles from home and 35 miles out, it dumped me on the bump stops again so is back on shrader valves...again. I have been all over the system looking for leaks...nothing. The compressor appears to provide a good output pressure. The system has no white powder or water in it (dryer refurbished). I downloaded the diagnostic programme, bought the cable and plugged my laptop into the OBD socket and can reset the EAS. When I ask for faults I get a mass of confusing contradictions such as all the valves are stuck open and stuck closed at the same time. I am now seriously considering putting it on normal springs but the (lapsed) mechanic in me wants to find and fix the problem. Can anyone out there help me...please. Thanks, John
Sorry, forgot to say its a 1999 2.5DSE P38.
 
Sorry, forgot to say its a 1999 2.5DSE P38.

Bad comms with ECU if you are using a serial to USB adaptor you MUST load the adaptor driver BEFORE you plug the EASunlock in. Or windows will load a generic driver that does not work. Try a different comms port. You MUST have a solid green Good idle lamp on at all times, apart from a little flickering whilst working.
 
Bad comms with ECU if you are using a serial to USB adaptor you MUST load the adaptor driver BEFORE you plug the EASunlock in. Or windows will load a generic driver that does not work. Try a different comms port. You MUST have a solid green Good idle lamp on at all times, apart from a little flickering whilst working.
Hi Wammers, I am fairly certain that the connection is fine, I do have a good idle indicated. I don't think the problem lies there, I am pretty sure it is within the EAS itself. I am wondering if it might be the computer module given the symptoms and the fact that that is about the only thing I haven't changed or refurbished yet.
 
Hi Wammers, I am fairly certain that the connection is fine, I do have a good idle indicated. I don't think the problem lies there, I am pretty sure it is within the EAS itself. I am wondering if it might be the computer module given the symptoms and the fact that that is about the only thing I haven't changed or refurbished yet.

The only reason i know of for multiple contradictory readout is bad comms. It is basically listing all the available fault codes. Down load the instruction sheet for EASunlock from the site. If you don't already have it.
 
Hi Wammers, I am fairly certain that the connection is fine, I do have a good idle indicated. I don't think the problem lies there, I am pretty sure it is within the EAS itself. I am wondering if it might be the computer module given the symptoms and the fact that that is about the only thing I haven't changed or refurbished yet.

Did the check the connector behind the passenger A post? Also the ODB connector itself. Also check the pins on the plug where the driver pack connects is clean and the pins are good and tight.
 
Did the check the connector behind the passenger A post? Also the ODB connector itself. Also check the pins on the plug where the driver pack connects is clean and the pins are good and tight.
Today I have re-stripped the compressor, checked the system for leaks again and cleaned the pins on the connector to the driver pack. Once I had finished, I started the system and waited (with the door open) once I shut the door, nothing happened for some time, then it raised a bit, then nothing, then it raised a bit and then nothing. It seems like every time I do something to it I get a different set of symptoms. When I switched it off today, it started clicking and venting pressure out (it comes out through the compressor, I only know this because it did it when I had the blue pipe disconnected to check compressor output pressure), sometimes it does this and sometimes it doesn't. Today it vented pressure more from the right front and rear than the left front and rear so (for the first time), my car is now leaning down to the right. I reckon it's got a demon in it! Could you be a bit more specific ref the location of the white connector behind the passenger A post as I couldn't find it. Cheers John
 
Air will go out through the exhaust port when blue pipe is connected. Self levelling on switch off is quite normal. Connector is interface selector switch to ECU. Behind lower trim panel at base of passenger A post.
 
The ONLY way you will get the list of faults you describe is because of bad communications.
why did you only replace 3 airsprings? They should always be replaced in pairs.
I assume it doesn't drop at all when on Schrader valves?
There is a non return valve in the compressor that stops the air in the blue pipe.
 
The ONLY way you will get the list of faults you describe is because of bad communications.
why did you only replace 3 airsprings? They should always be replaced in pairs.
I assume it doesn't drop at all when on Schrader valves?
There is a non return valve in the compressor that stops the air in the blue pipe.
Hi, thanks for your response. When I connect my laptop, there is only one port that will work. When using that port I can initialise and get a good idle indicator with the right figures. I can, as far as I am aware, do everything I need to do such as unlocking the EAS, switch the compressor on and off, calibrate the heights for each stance and get sensor heights etc. However, when I read faults, I get a variety (never the same) of contradictory faults. Does this mean the comms are bad?

I had my local garage replace 1 front airbag a while back (they did not mention the pairs thing) and I replaced the 2 rear airbags myself a couple of months ago. I have to admit I have done much reading on the EAS and have never seen it written down that they must be replaced in pairs, I guess I missed it, thanks for telling me.

When it is on the schrader valves, I have to top it up every couple of days. I did the soapy water thing and there are very tiny leaks at the valves but I can find no leaks at the bags.

I had the blue pipe disconnected to test the compressor outlet pressure. When I finished, I switched the engine off before I reconnected the pipe. There was a quite loud clicking from the valve block (I think) and at each click, which were about 1-2 a second, puffs of air were expelled from the blue pipe. One of the other guys said this was probably self levelling, but when it happened earlier today it left the vehicle leaning to one side.

I would love to get it working correctly, but it seems to produce different symptoms every time I look at it. When I changed the valve block, it set the front at high and the rear at normal. The next time I used it, it dumped me on the bump stops 35 miles from home and I had to be recovered. Bloody thing is driving me mad!
 
Hi, thanks for your response. When I connect my laptop, there is only one port that will work. When using that port I can initialise and get a good idle indicator with the right figures. I can, as far as I am aware, do everything I need to do such as unlocking the EAS, switch the compressor on and off, calibrate the heights for each stance and get sensor heights etc. However, when I read faults, I get a variety (never the same) of contradictory faults. Does this mean the comms are bad?
You can change the port in the drop down menu at the top left hand corner of the EAS screen.
As far as I'm aware, the only way to get conflicting faults is due to comms problems. What version of Windows are you using? Did you load the driver for the USB to serial adaptor before you plugged the device in?


I had my local garage replace 1 front airbag a while back (they did not mention the pairs thing) and I replaced the 2 rear airbags myself a couple of months ago. I have to admit I have done much reading on the EAS and have never seen it written down that they must be replaced in pairs, I guess I missed it, thanks for telling me.

When it is on the schrader valves, I have to top it up every couple of days. I did the soapy water thing and there are very tiny leaks at the valves but I can find no leaks at the bags.
Leaks often occur where the pip enters the airbag and can be difficult to spot, I had a good deal of trouble when I fitted new Dunlop airsprings to my project car.

I had the blue pipe disconnected to test the compressor outlet pressure. When I finished, I switched the engine off before I reconnected the pipe. There was a quite loud clicking from the valve block (I think) and at each click, which were about 1-2 a second, puffs of air were expelled from the blue pipe. One of the other guys said this was probably self levelling, but when it happened earlier today it left the vehicle leaning to one side.
The clicking is normal as the car attempts to level after switch off. With the blue pipe disconnected, air will exhaust from there rather than via the exhaust port. Sounds like you may have a height sensor problem if it ended up leaning. The connectors are prone to corrosion.

I would love to get it working correctly, but it seems to produce different symptoms every time I look at it. When I changed the valve block, it set the front at high and the rear at normal. The next time I used it, it dumped me on the bump stops 35 miles from home and I had to be recovered. Bloody thing is driving me mad!
It's not comfortable, but you can drive 35 miles on the bump stops, I had to do more than that once when I first got my P38. It's never happened again in over 8 years.
It will not operate correctly is the front is high and the rear is at normal height, there are fixed limits for each height. changing the valve block should not affect the heights, the only things that control the height are the sensors and the control switch on the dash.
Some of the symptoms could also suggest a faulty driver pack.
Apart from my comments about Win, is the EAS cable you are using OK? Check that the contact pins are free of corrosion on the OBD port, on all the height sensors, all the connectors in the EAS box and the white connector base of the A post behind the kick panel on the passenger side. Also, there are 2 earthing points on the inner wing under/close to the EAS box.
 
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