Combi boiler problem- advice please.

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Also just remembered , when I done further training with bosch they had incorporated an anti spike protection as in the past when there had been lightening etc it would destroy the circuit boards

just wondering if that’s the reason as many boilers now Incorporate protection against lightening as in power surges, therefore maybe the inverter isn’t providing a steady 240v supply ??
 
gstuart said:
Plus 1 with regards to power , what pure sine wave inverter are u using plse, trying to think why it would lock out, maybe the power is fluctuating or bad earth , or maybe the wattage is too low ??
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Or maybe a faulty inverter ?

All our UPS' are "smart" ( marketing sh*t :rolleyes: :D ) - but they only re-convert the drawn power ... so, they can run for roughly double the time at half their rated output (etc ...)

gstuart said:
of course there’s claims magnets etc work but are rubbish
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Agreed - but b*sch specify them as a condition of the warranty, so ...... :confused:

gstuart said:
hiya
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Hi !! :):):)
 
Disco1BFG said:
Or maybe a faulty inverter ?

All our UPS' are "smart" ( marketing sh*t :rolleyes: :D ) - but they only re-convert the drawn power ... so, they can run for roughly double the time at half their rated output (etc ...)



Agreed - but b*sch specify them as a condition of the warranty, so ...... :confused:



Hi !! :):):)
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indeed, alas I’m not 100% up on inverters , just thought if the electricity wasn’t constant and if the boiler picked that up but as u say ref being faulty

apologises , didn’t mean the magnacleans but those other yellow magnets that were sold claiming it straightened particles on the incoming water mains , they also claimed it would work on the gas mains as well , lol
 
Disco1BFG said:
:confused: o_O ... :D



As it "straightening" particles in water isn't hilarious enough ..... o_Oo_O




more like ROFLMAO ;) :D ..... AKA "snake oil" :rolleyes:
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they can even help with fuel economy u know, ROFLMAO ;);)

4A71938B-DA67-4951-895D-0B621B616246.jpeg
 
Is there any topic not covered in this forum? Problems with P38? advice offered, decisions taken, ditto David brown tractor…and ongoing Kubota issues, many disparate issues all covered, political, mechanical, practical, all covered.
Pity the younger generation rely on FB and Twitter, I would be embarrassed to receive a ‘tweet’ sounds harmless, but we have all seen the immense damage being a slave of social media can cause.
Forums, such as this, are much more answerable and comfortable, though some can get a bit ‘progressive’
Anyway, going to get an oil boiler (HVO) fitted for the hot water supply while retaining the log burner for radiators and some cooking.
 
gstuart said:
Plus 1 with regards to power , what pure sine wave inverter are u using plse, trying to think why it would lock out, maybe the power is fluctuating or bad earth , or maybe the wattage is too low ??
don’t inverters have a power saving mode , wonder if the boiler isn’t pulling enough wattage for it to come out of that mode , best to see what wattage the boiler is pulling , particularly when the central heating pump comes on May i also ask what inhibitors do u use please , assume u drain it out and renew it,
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Thanks for your interest. Inverter is a Mercury IPS 600-12 which has a continuous output of 600W & is capable of twice that for a short period (2 secs) which should take care of any start-up surge from the pump. The Inverter has a system of warning lights & buzzer to warn of any wrong connection/ overload etc. & none of these have been activated during the aforementioned test runs. The handbook refers to 'earthing the inverter to the a vehicle's chassis' but no mention of such a connection in a domestic situation. I did run a wire from the inverter casing earth stud to the earth on a nearby wall socket, but this didn't make any noticeable difference :(

The inhibitor is drained & replaced by my heating engineer, so I can't recall the product details ... sorry.
 
Disco1BFG said:
Or maybe a faulty inverter ?
All our UPS' are "smart" ( marketing sh*t :rolleyes: :D ) - but they only re-convert the drawn power ... so, they can run for roughly double the time at half their rated output .

It seems to be happy running plug-in appliances, I tried asking the suppliers for advice on the problem but (predictably) never received any feedback.
To recap, the pump runs & the boiler makes all the usual noises prior to firing up, but then throws an E133 code.
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hi @norseman

What boiler do u have please and type of fuel as can look at some wiring diagrams for u and the E133 error code to see if I can see why it’s doing it

if I remember if that’s a baxi / potterton that’s an ign lockout but of course depends on the boiler
 
Just left my sis's place, bit of a mare trying to drain down the system, drain cock spindle snapped off when the engineer turned it. Shot off to fetch a new one whilst he did other stuff.
He struggled fitting the new diverter core clip but mirrors and a torch sorted that. New diverter valve, motor and ev hose plus magna filter fitted and inhibitor added and she now has hot water again...but...no heating.
Combined room stat/ programmer has gone duff. It's wired not wireless and
my sis has always hated it, too small and fiddly to set so I said I would fit her something hopefully better/larger display.
It's only got 2 wires, recommendations?
Pics of front and inside, bloody thing is only 3" something square.
IMG_20210710_121845_553.jpg
IMG_20210710_122716_400.jpg
 
Our old room 'stat was wired, although still on the wall it's disconnected from the boiler since the new one was fitted in conjunction with a wireless 'stat.
I'll see if I can get the redundant one apart tomorrow, check the wiring & post my findings.
 
Have a look at the Honeywell t4 programable stats they take there power from battery's and just switch the two wires you all ready have, a lot of stats need more wires than you have.
 
brianp38dse said:
Have a look at the Honeywell t4 programable stats they take there power from battery's and just switch the two wires you all ready have, a lot of stats need more wires than you have.
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plus 1, also useto fit many honeywell CM67 , also found many wired stats didn’t have a neutral wire which I’ll then normally fit a wireless one and the control box next to the motorised valve or where ever the wiring centre was

indeed ref the number of wires, not enough there for a diverter valve , unless there tucked inside the wall, lol
 
It's definitely just the two wires Gary.
I've found the boiler ends and tugged them and I can see them move at the stat in the pic. Batterys in it too which I forgot to mention.
 
Flossie said:
It's definitely just the two wires Gary.
I've found the boiler ends and tugged them and I can see them move at the stat in the pic. Batterys in it too which I forgot to mention.
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apologises mate forgot it was a combi , those wires are just a make and break circuit , on the circuit board theres normally a link when there’s no thermostat fitted , so when one is fitted the link is removed and it’s wire in and wire out, so indeed the 2 x wires is correct , need to make sure what the voltage is, some are 240 or voltage free

plus here’s a Honeywell wiring book

https://heatingcontrols.honeywellho...df/Heating-Controls-Wiring-Guide-Issue-18.pdf

hope that makes sense , this was the one I was thinking about, alas they’ve updated since I was fitting thermostats

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17451455...7779&msclkid=74a675433be21165db0915a9834f4caa

or the T4 , can get it wired or wireless

hope that helps
 
Further information , it’s 240 v but can be changed to a wireless one

Remove the link between terminals 1 & 2. The 230V supply at terminal 2 must be connected to the thermostat. The switched output from the thermostat must be connected to terminal 1. (Figs. 35 & 36). If the room thermostat being used incorporates an anticipator it MUST be wired as shown in Figs. 35 & 36.

if there isn’t a neutral , ( plse never trust a colour of the wire , need to test with a multimeter to prove the neutral , live and earth ) fit a wireless stat, control wiring box will be fitted near the boiler and stat anywhere u like, just of course away from rads and if the stat is going to be kept in a room where there are trvs fitted to the rads they should be removed

plus full manual for u

https://www.heatingspareparts.com/c...n-instructions-1-31.pdf?v=1604021132114247642

hope that also helps u
 
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