Clutch replacement first timer!
- Thread starter L4ndyTom
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
yes tilting makes it so much easier but you dont have to worry about doing anything at front end or with cooling system ,just put a jack under rear or engine to support it ,but you can tilt engine a long way back without issue
GRATCH
HUGE MEMBER
- Posts
- 15,806
- Location
- North Cheshire
The only limit to how far you can tilt is the back of the head touching the bulkhead,worth checking that stray wires/pipes don't get crushed.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
no dont loosen mounts ,not really
Jason2
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,001
- Location
- Poitou Charentes-France
Got to tilt so that you can get the top bell houseing bolts/nuts off.
I always do it with rachet straps onto the chassis to support, pull box from engine, lower to ground. Do it right with new spigot bearing, strenghened clutch fork, Borg & Beck clutch kit.
Can also be done without dropping gearbox/transfer box by pulling the whole lot backwards giving you just enough space to get in there and do what you've got to do !
Jason2
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,001
- Location
- Poitou Charentes-France
Oh and if you make 4 studs up out of threaded bar about 5cms long (with a screw driver slot on outside end so you can get them out afterwards) that you screw into bellhousing bolt holes in engine block it makes life a lot easier when you come to put the gearbox back on.
Also if box won't nip up to the engine (splines on gearbox shaft not lined up with splines in clutch plate), don't force it, put a spanner on the crank pulley and turn engine over a quarter turn and try again.
Also if box won't nip up to the engine (splines on gearbox shaft not lined up with splines in clutch plate), don't force it, put a spanner on the crank pulley and turn engine over a quarter turn and try again.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
not much but depends on what you use, an engine crane is easier t drop it out completely ,ratchet strap maybe not
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
- Posts
- 64,350
- Location
- Gloucestercotshirewolds
Worth getting it right out the way, especially the 1st time so you can see what you're doing
Jason2
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,001
- Location
- Poitou Charentes-France
Maybe 15 to 20 cm Max.
I find engine cranes a pain for the whole unit (gearbox/transferbox) as the un balanced unit jolts all over the place, and then you can't get the bloody thing out once on the deck but everyone to their own !
I find engine cranes a pain for the whole unit (gearbox/transferbox) as the un balanced unit jolts all over the place, and then you can't get the bloody thing out once on the deck but everyone to their own !
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
chain on top drivers side stud securing t/box to gear box balances well with engine crane , a little front heavy but nothing you cant push up back into place
currymunster
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 803
- Location
- Folkestone, Kent.
James Martin knows his stuff - He helped me do a gearbox removal via email.
Great help!! You have to tilt engine, else transfer box will foul back of seatbox.
Tilting engine up at the front using sump mount points lowers back so gearbox is pulled of crank shaft downwards and clears seat box.
I took my box out with a trolley jack, two axle stands and a Ford Transit
jack for front of engine.
There was no way I could get it back in so bought a engine crane cheap off Ebay. I used a strap as James Martin says above (and taught me) on the ONE
stud on transfer box - Works a treat!!!
Great help!! You have to tilt engine, else transfer box will foul back of seatbox.
Tilting engine up at the front using sump mount points lowers back so gearbox is pulled of crank shaft downwards and clears seat box.
I took my box out with a trolley jack, two axle stands and a Ford Transit
jack for front of engine.
There was no way I could get it back in so bought a engine crane cheap off Ebay. I used a strap as James Martin says above (and taught me) on the ONE
stud on transfer box - Works a treat!!!
Last edited:
L4ndyTom
Active Member
- Posts
- 217
Good to know you guys are on hand! Something will go wrong. It always happens halfway through a job!! Lol! Anybody know of any photo guides on the intermaweb that I could print off? Sorry for the delay, on holiday in the arse end of Devon so very sketchy signal!!!
currymunster
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 803
- Location
- Folkestone, Kent.
Try Land Rover, Landroverweb.com Linking your Landy to the World! The Land Rover Directory - You'll find a huge array of workshop manuals in PDF format for you to download - Happy downloading
Also try Clutch Change - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
But you will need to open an account and log in to see
James
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/defender-clutch-change-174080.html
I was on my own, first clutch change and it really is much easier with the engine crane.
A tip for you if you do chose to use one and your on your own, have a couple of small ratchet straps handy to tie from the crane to the other side of the gear box to hold it level when it comes to re fitting. any problems or you want any help/questions feel free to pm me and i will help guide you through
I was on my own, first clutch change and it really is much easier with the engine crane.
A tip for you if you do chose to use one and your on your own, have a couple of small ratchet straps handy to tie from the crane to the other side of the gear box to hold it level when it comes to re fitting. any problems or you want any help/questions feel free to pm me and i will help guide you through
currymunster
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 803
- Location
- Folkestone, Kent.
Let us know how you get on!!
Similar threads
