clutch problems :(

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adrianscarff

Member
Posts
44
Location
Wiltshire
Ok so here i am again with yet another problem, i have searched this and other forum's before posting. There are similar problems but not the same so here it is! my clutch when car is cold is fine no problems at all but after driving for a while it becomes difficult but not impossible to select any gear:mad: its not always a struggle but sometimes i really have to shove it into any gear anybody had the same issues???? i am fully aware of the usual problems regarding sticking and the slave bracket, have checked both already, really beginning to wish my badge said discovery instead of freelander:boxing: any help would possibly save my suicide:rolly:
 
Ok so here i am again with yet another problem, i have searched this and other forum's before posting. There are similar problems but not the same so here it is! my clutch when car is cold is fine no problems at all but after driving for a while it becomes difficult but not impossible to select any gear:mad: its not always a struggle but sometimes i really have to shove it into any gear anybody had the same issues???? i am fully aware of the usual problems regarding sticking and the slave bracket, have checked both already, really beginning to wish my badge said discovery instead of freelander:boxing: any help would possibly save my suicide:rolly:

What does the pedal feel like when it becomes difficult to engage? Could it be a gearbox problem, checked oil in gearbox?

No matter if it's a disco or freelander, clutches still go, just done mine (disco):(
 
Noticed as I drove mine that a similar thing happens, I was in traffic a lot more today than usual..

When I work it out I will post an answer!
 
Ok so here i am again with yet another problem, i have searched this and other forum's before posting. There are similar problems but not the same so here it is! my clutch when car is cold is fine no problems at all but after driving for a while it becomes difficult but not impossible to select any gear:mad: its not always a struggle but sometimes i really have to shove it into any gear anybody had the same issues???? i am fully aware of the usual problems regarding sticking and the slave bracket, have checked both already, really beginning to wish my badge said discovery instead of freelander:boxing: any help would possibly save my suicide:rolly:

Your release arm bearings are siezing up or the slave cylinder bracket or the slave cylinder is goong to EXPIRE. IMMINENTLY!

Just come on to rant about mine failing on the way from work.

If you use heat and plus gas on the release arm and burn the seal out you'll get a couple of hundred miles out of it.

Take good breakdown cover out or AFAIK you know Ratty, plenty of 12" tie wraps and a piece of wood about 1" x 1/2" x 4" and the sockets to take your sump plate off.

Long term solution is to seperate engine and geatbox and free/replace the release arm bearings.
 
pedal feels a little stiff but not overly so imo. i haven't checked oil level as yet so will do that in daylight :)

You will not see any drop in oil level.

You will press the clutch, there will be a thump/loss of drive and the pedal will not rise.

Mine has done it three times in five weeks.

:(
 
Looks like the bush.., I freed mine off when I swapped the gearbox but I think I should have done a better job of it! 3in1 going on it in the morning!
 
Looks like the bush.., I freed mine off when I swapped the gearbox but I think I should have done a better job of it! 3in1 going on it in the morning!

And lots of heat.

It'll only get you so far though.

There is a greasable arm for mg's but it's a clevis pin not a ball and socket to the slave. I've looked at em and freelaner put a lonk up the other bay.

Fat fumb and hoegarden = dodgy spelling.

I'm gonna have to see to my bearing tomorroe.
 
thanks for all responses guys been out checked all of the above, cable ties a plenty and more lube than a prostitutes hand bag and its working [for now] as the car is a 1998 hippo in dire need of petrol and a match i will prob just leave it as is until that day it fails then look in mirror laugh at myself and get another land rover with an auto box. :)
 
thanks for all responses guys been out checked all of the above, cable ties a plenty and more lube than a prostitutes hand bag and its working [for now] as the car is a 1998 hippo in dire need of petrol and a match i will prob just leave it as is until that day it fails then look in mirror laugh at myself and get another land rover with an auto box. :)

I've just been to a couple of the local scrappers for a mooch, there were only two freelanders in but I reckon a mgf slave and bracket with a rover 45 coupling with some rigid, bleed-able plumbing would make a good mod.

Unfortunately finances and time preclude working it out at the mo.

Stick with the gaylander if you can, a bit of knowledge and lateral thinking go a long way...

:)

Been looking at seperating the gearbox and engine this morning and it looks a pregnant fish but do-able and the release arm looks* straight forrard to change/clean up.
 
i am deffo not work shy or akin to using the odd spanner so as my love for the green oval grows i am sure i will stick with this bloody thing lol, your little mod seems like it will work so as i have access to a rover i will dig out the parts mentioned and give that a go, if it works ill put it on here with pictures if anyone is keen for me to do that?
 
Always change master and slave when doing freelander clutches. I have seen loads where only one has been done, and a matter of months later the other will go too. It's to do with the small volume of fluid involved causing cross contamination and destroying the seals. Early ones are a sealed system with no way of bleeding, later ones (especially the diesels) are separate.
And in case anyones is wondering, I work for one of the biggest clutch manufacturers in the world.
Be careful too if using a slave off a different rover model, as the throw of the slave cylinder may be too much for the fork and clutch to handle.
 
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