Clutch Problems SIIa

Hi everyone,
I'm new to this forum, but have been reading it for a while.

My girlfriend owns a 1966 SWB SIIa ex-Military Landie, which has been running fine for the last year or so.
Just after Christmas the Clutch Slave cylinder stopped working, so i bought a new Slave and Master cylinders.
I fitted both a couple of weeks ago, and bled the system with an eezi-bleed. We drove the landie for about 10 miles around the lanes, checking all felt ok.
Coming out of a village up a hill and changing from 3rd to 4th, all of a sudden there was no drive, I change back down the gears, but there was no drive in any gears.
We parked by the side of the road, I bled the system and topped up the reservoir, started the engine, put it into first, let the clutch out, still no drive.
We bled the system again, put it into first and it pulled away, and pulled in all gears. When we got close to home, the same happened. I bled the system a couple of times, and eventually the gear enegaged and we made it home.

I am pretty sure there is no air in the system, as i am using an eezi-bleed, which i have used on other cars many times before. So far I have used just shy of 1.5litres of brake fluid .
When i check the reservoir, there is no loss of fluid.
One thing I have noticed, is the biting point for the clutch is right at the pedals limit.

Any suggestions?

Cheers
Daren

reet how far down do you have to push the pedal to be able to engage rev? then how far up do you have to release it before it just begins to move ?

When it is working, as soon as i press the pedal it starts to engage.
The pedal is nearly all the way up before it starts moving.

Daren

nah yer not reading this properly....
just slowly push the pedal down till you can engage rev.. then let the pedal back up slowly till it just starts to bite.
the two points should be close together.
if after getting it into rev you need to release abart, say more than 1/2 inch or so then yer clutch is ****ed if its less then 1./4 inch its good
between 1/4 and 1/2 and its on its way out

Ah ok, understand now.
I'll give that a go tomorrow morning, and in the mean time price up a new clutch, and work out how much time/effort it involves.

Cheers for your help.

Daren

4 hours if yer good..8 if you work to the book and longer if yer a complete ****

You don't mean the dreaded Haynes do you?

course not am talkin emer's here

and longer if yer a complete ****

Click to expand...

Wot about if you like to stop for nice cup of tea and a biscuit every now and again?

then yer a ****

dba11 said:

My girlfriend owns a 1966 SWB SIIa ex-Military Landie,

Click to expand...

"Top Girl" I would keep hold of her.

Ok, I checked the distance and it was just shy of an inch.
So I'm about to order a new clutch.

The parts I am going to order are :-

Clutch Friction Plate
Clutch Pressure Plate
Clutch Release Bearing
Hydraulic Flex pipe

Can anyone think of anything else i may want to order/replace while i am doing this?

Cheers
Daren

how about a v8 and conversion kit fer me?

rear crank seal and g/box input seals????

Hehe

I'll add the seals to the list.
Normally I order from john Craddock or Paddock Spares, any other recommendations?

You mention in an earlier post about 'emer's' manual, what is this? As i only have the Haynes manual.

Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated.

Daren

emers is what the army use and you might not need the seals as mentioned but as they're cheap you might aswell get them incase.

i use paddocks all the time mainly cos they only charge a fiver fer shipping

Where can i find an Emer's manual?

I'll get the seals anyway, as it's a no brainer, and use Paddocks.

Daren

don't know if you'll find any as they have secret stamped all over them fer some reason. if they was availible you'd probeely find them at an ex mod auction

ah well not to worry, i'll have to make do with Mr haynes' attempt at a helpful manual.

Any hints/tips or pitfalls to watch out for?
I have replaced engines/gearboxes/clutch's on other cars, but never on a Landie.

Daren

if yer taking the box out then stick a 1/2 socket under the rear of the engine . it keeps the engine on a more even keel so eases putting yer box back on.