Clutch Pedal Spring

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moremuckmush

Well-Known Member
Posts
174
Location
Durham
Evening all,
Just been surfing info on these LOF clutch springs that are said to make a good bit difference by way of easing the the amount of graft needed to push the clutch pedal, any you guys fitted one and are they as easy to fit as the YouTube videos suggest .
Thanks in advance
 
You need to check you have the right pedal, does yours still have the linear spring?

It made a huge difference on mine fitting the LOF srping, I also fitted the LOF mastercylinde, but have found that causes the pedal to stay down and required a lot of fine tuning on the master cylinder and the lock stop to make it work correctly.

I would also say you should check if you have the pedal box that has the pedel down position stop bolt on the box.

Cheers
 
You need to check you have the right pedal, does yours still have the linear spring?

It made a huge difference on mine fitting the LOF srping, I also fitted the LOF mastercylinde, but have found that causes the pedal to stay down and required a lot of fine tuning on the master cylinder and the lock stop to make it work correctly.

I would also say you should check if you have the pedal box that has the pedel down position stop bolt on the box.

Cheers
Thanks for the quick reply and feedback ,

Just been reading that you need to already have a certain pedal/box and something I'm going to check in the morning , ah so onto of the spring swap there's another modification to be had with the master cylinder, it's an 89 110 pickup I own and until I look tomorrow I'm not sure if the pedal will accept the new improved spring.

cheers
 
Thanks for the quick reply and feedback ,

Just been reading that you need to already have a certain pedal/box and something I'm going to check in the morning , ah so onto of the spring swap there's another modification to be had with the master cylinder, it's an 89 110 pickup I own and until I look tomorrow I'm not sure if the pedal will accept the new improved spring.

cheers

mid it’s an 89 it won’t, it needs to be the 300tdi pedal box onwards, easy to swap the pedal box over tbh.

I fitted a 300tdi pedal box to my earlier defender, along with the LoF power master and the LoF spring, and a new AP racing clutch. The spring was too strong and held the pedal down but I just swapped to the standard spring and it was fine
 
How does the LoF spring make the clutch pedal easier to press? The one that's originally fitted on it is a return spring, nothing to do with helping you push it down
 
I think the idea is that the design of the spring helps return and assists the pressing of the pedal, research tells you that there is a critical position adjusted by the bump stop on the pedal box or adjusting the servo to get the spring/pedal position just right , so in theory the spring works both ways .. clever stuff
 
I think the idea is that the design of the spring helps return and assists the pressing of the pedal, research tells you that there is a critical position adjusted by the bump stop on the pedal box or adjusting the servo to get the spring/pedal position just right , so in theory the spring works both ways .. clever stuff
I adjusted my clutch as per Britannica Restorations videos and it's bloody lovely now. Feels much more like a modern clutch and takes no effort to press at all, not like the older ones where you ended up with muscles of steel on one leg. Worth a short trying just a proper adjustment and bleed before you spend money on fancy parts
 
I adjusted my clutch as per Britannica Restorations videos and it's bloody lovely now. Feels much more like a modern clutch and takes no effort to press at all, not like the older ones where you ended up with muscles of steel on one leg. Worth a short trying just a proper adjustment and bleed before you spend money on fancy parts

Is yours a linear spring or the later style of spring?
upload_2021-8-9_13-36-3.png

Cheers
 
I adjusted my clutch as per Britannica Restorations videos and it's bloody lovely now. Feels much more like a modern clutch and takes no effort to press at all, not like the older ones where you ended up with muscles of steel on one leg. Worth a short trying just a proper adjustment and bleed before you spend money on fancy parts
Yep , Plenty short journeys for me so don't half give your calf some jip after a while, at first you think its not bad but sit in modern traffic for a while and it becomes a work out, your point is duly noted though and agree
 
How does the LoF spring make the clutch pedal easier to press? The one that's originally fitted on it is a return spring, nothing to do with helping you push it down

The round over-centre spring not the straight spring. It helps as it changes action halfway through the pedal stroke.
 
I ordered the parts to do this when my clutch master cylinder failed about 4 years ago. They didn't arrive until after the hydraulics were sorted so have been sculling around in the dash until today. Finally decided time had come and it turned out to be a pretty straightforward job thanks to the tip to pretension the spring and hold with cable ties. With this method there is no need to hold the pedal down when fitting.

110 Defender. Year 2000

Parts used:
Britpart spring EDP7510L
2 x bush DCP3212L
1 x U shaped saddle described as Bearing CLP3180
All 4 items also available as a kit EDP7510LBPK from Rimmer Brothers amongst others.

First job was to remove finisher plate that hides the top of the original spring. 3 screws at the bootom of the vinyl panels.



IMG_3131.JPG


Next unbolt top of spring, remove the plate that retains it and replace bolt. Remove other end of spring from pedal.

IMG_3132.JPG




Fit 2 plastic bushes to bracket and saddle to clutch pedal.

Compress spring in vice. Ideally place rag over it to limit flight and injury if it slips and pings out. I placed zip ties around the spring legs and tightened them at the same time as tightening the vice. The spring arms need to be pulled together until they are at least parallel to stop the ties sliding down.


IMG_3134.JPG


Fit outer ends of the spring into the bushes. The coil of the spring should end up at the top.

I ended up with at least a quarter inch gap between the middle of the spring and the receptacle / bearing on the pedal. Lined up the spring so that it was immediately in line with where it needed to be and cut one tie. The other tie broke and the spring ended up nicely in place.
 

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Aye I've seen the earlier spring but thankfully never had a landy fitted with it. I think you can retrofit the later spring? Or I may be wrong

minor if you change the whole pedal box, the actual pedal as quite different and the spring is not interchangeable between them
 
you cant beat a few pics when trying to explain something .. top job , as in the earlier posts I have the other type of pedal so will need to sort the type you have shown if I'm to gain that upgrade
 
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