Clutch bearing?

Hi all, my S3 with a 200di disco engine started making a horrible whining sound from the engine this morning. Been out in it this afternoon thinking it was the belt and noticed the gears were getting harder to engage, developed the horrible burning smell, wouldn't go in gear and the pedal now goes straight to the floor with very little effort.
So my question is, clutch release bearing or whole clutch? Thanks for any help you can give me fellas

I had a similar problem whereby couldnt engage gears, turned out there was a dodgy clutch pressure plate which meant the clutch was only disengaging on one side of the plate. Ended up getting a whole new kit for around 100 pounds off paddock.

Whining could be bearing. Smells could be friction plate. Either way you have to dive in and find out. Once you've gone to the effort of getting to the clutch, I'd always do the friction plate and release bearing anyway.
Then you may or may not have to do the pressure plate.

Rat67 said:

Hi all, my S3 with a 200di disco engine started making a horrible whining sound from the engine this morning. Been out in it this afternoon thinking it was the belt and noticed the gears were getting harder to engage, developed the horrible burning smell, wouldn't go in gear and the pedal now goes straight to the floor with very little effort.
So my question is, clutch release bearing or whole clutch? Thanks for any help you can give me fellas

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Have you checked that the rod hasn't gone through the arm?

Always replace the whole clutch, and the arm, if in doubt, you will only end up doing it again if you don't.

And if you do go all the way check the condition of the flywheel for wear/ scoring.

And while you are checking the flywheel you may as well replace the crank oil seal and while you are there you may as well do the sump gasket and.... is this how restorations start lol

come on guys, he should be right with just the clutch section, just look for excessive oil leaks around the area while you replace the clutch and decide if its ok or may need attention, all id probably do is replace the throw-out bearing the arm as the others have said and the friction disc and pressure plate, also it may not hurt to do an overhaul on the slave cylinder or replace that as well as the new clutch will put more strain on the hydraulics, oh and get the flywheel machined if scored if not just get the flywheel checked for straightness.

Tony..

Thanks very much for your replies guys, think maybe replacing the whole thing may be the way to go, better safe than sorry and all that. Are the kits from Paddock any good?

Rat67 said:

Thanks very much for your replies guys, think maybe replacing the whole thing may be the way to go, better safe than sorry and all that. Are the kits from Paddock any good?

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id say they are ok to use.

Thanks Kommer, the saga continues, disconnected everything and today undid the exhaust, as I moved it there was a cracking sound from the engine bay. Long story short, I removed the exhaust manifold and it does not look good, basically clamped on with bloody washers and leaking like a sieve. Looking at prices online and at over 400 quid I'm stuffed, any ideas guys?

Also seen people say you can fit a Defender 300tdi manifold to the 200tdi block?

I have a 200DI had the old 2.5 manifold fitted which uses clamps , the manifold is now spare along with the clamps.
I replaced it with a 200tdi manifold which I removed turbo unit from and welded a steel disc in its place so now have the Steve Parker 200 exhaust fitted.

Thanks Blackburn, turns out the manifold was from a series 3 not a disco, so I've bought the one pictured, this is the one which was clamped on with washers so I thought better the devil you know. So now this is going to be clamped onto a Disco 200DI block but which would be the best gasket to use and has anyone got any better suggestions than washers for a tight fit? Cheers lads

Have a look at Glencoynes 200di conversion website.
I can send you the clamps I made for postage.
Standard 200tdi gasket

That would be brilliant Blackburn, cheers. Please let me know the cost of postage and I'll sort it out with you

PM me your address .

Okay, I finally got the gearbox off (after dismantling most of the cab) and to be honest I'm not totally sure what I'm looking at now. I'm no expert at this and would appreciate the advice of those in the know.
I pulled the fork from the box and it seems to be a heavy duty one that looks ok, the release bearing has no play and seems quite smooth in it's operation. I've removed the friction & pressure plate but as I said I'm no expert so I've uploaded a few pics to see what you guys think. I don't mind replacing the clutch if it needs it but I dont want to get taken for a ride if it's ok. Thanks again guys and sorry for being a pest.

I'm very surprised that release bearing is OK judging by the amount of wear on the pressure plate it doesn't look like it goes round at at all.
The friction plate looks at bit worn but you need to measure it.
Pressure plate springs look well worn by the bearing but the machined face of the plate and the flywheel are the important bit.
If it was me, I'd replace it all except the fork but then that's because I'm immensely wealthy not to mention reluctant to take the clutch out every few hundred miles.

Try the clutch plate on the splines of the gearbox shaft and make sure it slides freely.
Since you have it to bits I would renew , post a pic of the flywheel face .
Have you checked the clutch pedal has free play between it and master cylinder , also hose could be causing a blockage.
Worth ordering a new hose at the same time.

Cheers guys, took it to a Land Ranger place today and he said the friction plate was okay for a while. Bought a new bearing and slave cylinder, £57 and took the old slave out today, very gunky and very easy to push piston down. I'll try your suggestions tomorrow and possibly go with a new clutch anyway seeing as it's out already. Got the brackets for the manifold today as well Doug, much appreciated.