P38A Clicking when TRYING to start

I do not seem to be able to wake the beast up.

I turn the key and all I get is a clicking sound and a very quick message flash bye saying Motor Disabled!?

Also I noticed that the locking button on the key would not lock the doors etc, but the key can still unlock. On top of that, even by manually locking from inside it would only lock that door and not all the others like it usually does.

Now I have been having some trouble with the LH window, it opens but then will not close and then some time later the sunroof started to do the same, only moving in one direction.

Could it be the module in the drivers door?

But if so, would that stoop the engine firing up?

Battery.

myfirstl322 said:

Battery.

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Nope, all's well in that department. LoL if only it was that.

Sounds like battery. How about the earths, particularly the starter motor one?

If you locked car with fob then opened it with key you will get engine disabled message. This needs either EKA code or fob to be pressed to clear. If fob has lost sync it will need EKA code to clear engine disabled. If only one door is opening with key it will be faulty CDL switch in drivers door lock. Problem being that EKA cannot be entered until that is repaired. Fob cannot be synced until EKA code is accepted. Sun roof will be switch failing to make contact on switch pack. Easy to repair. Window only going one way could be same problem as sunroof or wiring to outstation. Look at white plugs and sockets at base of L/H A post.

wammers said:

If you locked car with fob then opened it with key you will get engine disabled message.

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Wammers, please re read:

O Bife said:

Also I noticed that the locking button on the key would not lock the doors etc, but the key can still unlock. On top of that, even by manually locking from inside it would only lock that door and not all the others like it usually does.

Click to expand...

The FOB in itself is ok.

This no-starting started the other day after having had to pull over sharpish due to an air-lock in the coolant system. About 2 hours later when I went to fire her up... ...click click click. Now either by luck or something else I got her running after a gentle rock in gear. That made me think it was maybe the starting motor that was having a laugh. Once again the same happened and the same cure worked. But this time it did not.

Re-garding the driver's window (LHD) not closing. The mechanic bypassed the black box in my door and put in a switch that now allows me to open and close my window. Now I ask this, could whatever he did with the wiring to fit the extra switch done something to the car's brain?
Also, the way he has it wired allows me to operate it without the key in the ignition!

O Bife said:

pull over sharpish due to an air-lock in the coolant system. About 2 hours later when I went to fire her up... ...click click click. Now either by luck or something else I got her running after a gentle rock in gear.

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Hope it was not a hydraulic lock on the pistons,there might be more to this

dubbleRR said:

Hope it was not a hydraulic lock on the pistons,there might be more to this

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What is that?

I did notice a big drop in power a few seconds before pulling over due to the temp dial sky rocketing. After filling the coolant system she was back to herself and pulling great.

Water gets forced into cylinder under pressure ,engine cant turn ,but rocking in gear can clear the cylinder

dubbleRR said:

Water gets forced into cylinder under pressure ,engine cant turn ,but rocking in gear can cleat the cylinder

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Ah! Now that does seem to make a bit of sense. I guess that the only way in knowing is by removing the head?

Or is there a kinder way in finding out?

Remove spark plugs.

myfirstl322 said:

Remove spark plugs.

Click to expand...

That's pretty difficult on a diesel.

Or them squirty things....

The injectors?

wammers said:

That's pretty difficult on a diesel.

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LOLOLOLOLOL only you Wammers! LOLOLOLOLOL

O Bife said:

The injectors?

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Aye, the squirters

A wee dab into each bore at TDC with something that can wick moisture.

myfirstl322 said:

Aye, the squirters

A wee dab into each bore at TDC with something that can wick moisture.

Click to expand...

Would glow plugs not be easier?

I still think starter motor is suspect.

As for window. I think the BECM controls the windows based on signal from the switch pack. Suspect the switch pack is dodgy and your switch is just spliced in to power the motor direct. Probably does no harm but I wouldn't leave mine like that, especially if switch pack just needs a squirt of electrical cleaner.

Grrrrrr said:

Would glow plugs not be easier?

I still think starter motor is suspect.

As for window. I think the BECM controls the windows based on signal from the switch pack. Suspect the switch pack is dodgy and your switch is just spliced in to power the motor direct. Probably does no harm but I wouldn't leave mine like that, especially if switch pack just needs a squirt of electrical cleaner.

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Not as simple as that. You have to remove the switch from the board. Then remove the clear tape covering the contacts. Clean the contacts then using double sided tape refit the contacts and the switch..

wammers said:

Not as simple as that. You have to remove the switch from the board. Then remove the clear tape covering the contacts. Clean the contacts then using double sided tape refit the contacts and the switch..

Click to expand...

Mine acted up a bit when I got it. I just squirted round the switches with some contact cleaner and used the switches. Been fine since and that's 5 years or so.

Grrrrrr said:

Mine acted up a bit when I got it. I just squirted round the switches with some contact cleaner and used the switches. Been fine since and that's 5 years or so.

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The contacts under switches are sealed cannot see how contact cleaner would help. Under the plastic switch are two triangular pop contacts. One for each function. Both are sealed in place by clear tape. Contact cleaner cannot get to them. There are three contact points for the outer edges of the triangular contact and one in the middle that is made when the switch is pressed. That completes the circuit. The clear tape must be removed before the contacts can be cleaned. You cut off the seven pips on the reverse of the board to remove the switches. Then cut away the tape switch by switch and remove it complete with contacts stuck to it. Carefully remove contacts from tape clean pop contact and contacts on board. Position pop contact correctly then secure in place with double sided clear tape. Push switch tangs back through board and press switch base onto double sided tape to secure. There is no need to remelt the cut off tangs.