Chipping my TD4

Hello all,

I'm a newbie to Freelanders (just purchased a 2002 TD4). I'd like to chip the BMW engine it has but there seems to be a bewildering amount of information on the web and i'm unsure as to which way to go, can someone help?

My specifics are, I live in Cyprus so the chip needs to be posted to me and be simple enough for me to install without any tools apart from me being able to open the boot on my drive.I don't own a owners/Haynes manual for it so apart from filling/checking fluids under the bonnet the engine and bits are unknown to me.

Can anyone help?

75ZT HOME

Tuning-diesels for cheaper diesel tuning.

read these two sites... most members use Rover Ron's Synergy.

Oh and :welcome2:

Thanks, all seems confusing though!

Do I dont I need a sensor thingy, which one, costs! Are/is it all worth it?

It all depends on the state of your MAF Sensor. Indications as to the state of the MAF are on Rover Rons site

I purchased the Synergy 2 with the dash mounted switch. I did not replace the MAF Sensor because I felt that it wasn't enough out of spec although for the small price of a Pierburgh MAF i really think I should have.

The Synergy 2 Module was fitted within half an hour although I had been at the MAF and air cleaner before so had the appropriate tools etc to get the air cleaner cover off (I recommend a long flexi bit for a screw driver). The part that takes the longest is getting the wire for the remote switch through the bulkhead and to the dashboard, a straightened metal coat hanger and a lot of messing about does the trick.

With the Synergy module fitted it makes a huge difference to the car, performance is improved drastically. I have not seen a huge improvement in fuel consumption but thats because I drive the Freelander round much quicker now (I know I shouldn't).

I really don't think you would be disappointed if you were to purchase a Rover Ron Tuning module. Its easy to install, its easy to remove when you get round to selling your Freelander (or scrapping it because the IRD, the VCU and all the other expensive bits of the car has failed) and its one of the cheepest units on the market.

Sounds like there's no downsides to the module! I'm only keeping the car for 2 years max due to me being overseas with a return to the uk then. Would you recommend the Synergy 1 or 2 module for a TD4 2002 Freelander manual gearbox? What's the purpose of the dash switch? Do I need any specific tools to install it in the engine (I can't get a Haynes out here and I don't know the various parts in the engine!)

Whats the IRD & VCU?

The Synergy 2 module gives you the benefit of having the MAF compensation which is good because the Bosch MAF (which is in the TD4) has a life of only about 40,000 miles. The MAF compensation, as suggested adjusts to compensate for an out of spec MAF. It also allows the cheeper Pierburgh MAF to be fitted instead of the Bosch MAF. I think a Bosch MAF is about £400 where a Pierburgh MAF is about £15.

The Dash mounted switch alows you to switch between Off / Economy / Power

The switch can only be selected when the engine is switched off so you can't change the setting while you are driving. When I first installed the kit, I played around using the switch but I didnt see any real difference in economy and if I remember correctly you can still make those changes using the multi position switch on the module its self but that means going under the bonnet.

Will you need special tools? Yes. Firstly you have to get the cover off the air cleaner. The bolt on the rhs is difficult to get to and I had to purchase a flexi drive which did the trick.
You also need to disconnect the MAF. If I remember correctly, to diconnect the MAF you have to undo the two attaching bolts which are special star drive headed bolts. I got round this by cutting slots into the bolts with a dremel. While you are at it you should buy a can of carb cleaner and give the MAF a good clean while it has been removed (thats assuming you are not replacing the MAF).
You shouldnt need a Haynes manual because the kit comes with clear instructions.

Whats an IRD? Intermediate Reduction Drive (I think). Its the gearbox that separates out the front and rear wheel drive. If its the pre facelift model then the ratio's front to rear were a little bit out and if the VCU is goosed then the IRD gets a bit ofa hammering (I may be wrong on that so anybody here kindly butt in and correct me).

Whats the VCU? Viscous Coupling Unit. Its about half way down the drive shaft to the rear wheels. In normal driving the drive from the engine goes to the front wheels. When the front wheels slip (if your off road etc) then there is friction created within the VCU which caused the VCU to lock and power is transmitted to the rear wheels. But like all things Freelander, it starts to fail after about 60,000 miles and the VCU lock up permenantly. Do a seach on here for LOTS of information on the VCU and how to check the state of yours.

Hope all this helps.

Just a couple of comments to add.

I have a Roveron box of tricks (synergy II) as mentioned, with the MAF compensator. I also have the EGR valve removed and bypass kit fitted.

Today it passed the MOT with a emmissions reading of 0.41 parts/million against a max of 1.5p/ml and as such went through as a fast pass. Thats with the Synergy 2 switched on.

Also, even though I diagnosed a duff MAF at 14000 miles and had it replaced with a LR genuine part (£190 incl fitting) and not have done 42,000 miles, I have NOT altered the MAF compensation switch on the Synergy 2 but have not noticed any hesitations as caused by a faulty MAF. The MAFS though, do deteriate with time, although mines seems to of not so far. The Peirburg MAFS are around £50, LR are about £150.

Regarding the VCU and IRD, I thought it was the VCU that had the ratios changed rather than the IRD?

Steve

I would always favour changing the MAF for a Pierburgh unit and using the Synergy 2. Comparing how the engine ran with a brand new Land Rover supplied MAF and a new Pierburgh MAF was almost no contest, the engine just ran so much better with the Pierburgh.

The screws holding the MAF in are actually Star plus screws, they have 5 points not 6, sets usually available on Ebay.

Tomo1971 said:

Just a couple of comments to add.

I have a Roveron box of tricks (synergy II) as mentioned, with the MAF compensator. I also have the EGR valve removed and bypass kit fitted.

Today it passed the MOT with a emmissions reading of 0.41 parts/million against a max of 1.5p/ml and as such went through as a fast pass. Thats with the Synergy 2 switched on.

Also, even though I diagnosed a duff MAF at 14000 miles and had it replaced with a LR genuine part (£190 incl fitting) and not have done 42,000 miles, I have NOT altered the MAF compensation switch on the Synergy 2 but have not noticed any hesitations as caused by a faulty MAF. The MAFS though, do deteriate with time, although mines seems to of not so far. The Peirburg MAFS are around £50, LR are about £150.



Regarding the VCU and IRD, I thought it was the VCU that had the ratios changed rather than the IRD?

Steve

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That's good info re the MOT as I thought I might have to turn off my Synergy to pass. Those figures you quote are excellent though & as I've mounted my box inside the air filter housing it would have been a small inconvenience to have to switch off then on afterwards. Still goes to prove that you can't beat a synergy with egr bypass & a regular generous slug of Millers powersport.

VCU doesn't have ratios or gears, it's a hydraulic lock effectively. It's the IRD that has the ratios.

Never experienced fitting a MAF compensator or Synergy but am keeping an eye out on ebay for one.

The VCU has no gears. Its a unit which when slip in the rear wheels is detected the fluid in the VCU heats up and locks the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft hence transferring drive to the rear.

The rear differential is the unit on the older 'landers that caused the problems - it had the wrong ratio in it and caused 'wind up' of the transmission system over stressing the IRD and then BANG!

Sorry to be a bearer of doom and gloom!

Thanks for that. You are right, i've now had the TD4 for a few weeks and it is sluggish at pull away situations. Not after a fast car just one with more 'oomph' Can anyone recommend the best settings for the Synergy II for the TD4? As I mention, i'm after the bhp/Tq increase for rectifying the underpoweredness and not a sports car, thanks

Got mine on 10

Do a bit of a search on here. I do remember this discussion going on previously.

My way: Full synthetic oil throughout, bypass egr, cleanout inlet manifold, regularly clean MAF with good quality electronics contact cleaner(Maplins), Change crankcase depression limiting valve filter annually, Knockout Cat-con substrate completely to allow exhaust and therefore turbo to breathe, lubricate turbo linkage with 'copper slip', make sure air filter is clean, add millers every other fillup.

Dann, I have no idea as to what you are talking about regarding your way, it all seems gobbildygook to me. I'm just after a little more power, will the Synergy II & PB Maf do this? Is the price tag of £290 really worth it for only the two years I own the car? Opinions please

wgb34 said:

.....will the Synergy II & PB Maf do this? Is the price tag of £290 really worth it for only the two years I own the car? Opinions please

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Simple answer, yes. You're unhappy with the engine power currently, fit the Synergy and PB MAF, fairly easy to do (once you've got the tool to remove the MAF) and enjoy the increased power. You needen't do the other modifications, but again they're not hard to do if you can hold a spanner and will give a further small increase in power, no where near as much as fitting the Synergy. I'd advise the EGR bypass and cleanout the inlet manifold though, the engine will run much smoother. The bypass costs about £40 ish from Ebay, inlet manifold costs a tin of Mr Muscle oven cleaner!

The bypass-do I need a EGR filter & gasket if fitting the bypass?
How much extra does this give in terms of power/Tq etc..
Where are all these things under the bonnet?
Will the car run fine/incresed pull & power with just the Synergy II & PB MAF?
Do I need to fit the MAF if I put a Synergy II in the Freelander?

The EGR bypass is a good thing but not essential and nothing to do with the Synergy unit.
You may not need a new MAF. Its all dependant on if your MAF is way out of spec. You could get away with cleaning the MAF with carb cleaner. I have not replaced the MAF on my car that has done 46000 miles but Im thinking of replacing my MAF with a PB sometime this year.

You obviously have loads of questions, but most will be answered with a copious use of the search.