Cheap Chinese diesel heater.

I thibk its ****ed. I just did it again and it ran but so much smoke and it ducking stinks. I’m taking it out. All that ****ing time spent

removed the lot. I’ll take to the farm to test with a spare battery so it doesn’t look like my house is on fire

I would run it outside for half an hour or so, maybe there is some oil on the burner housing. If that's not the case look for a leak in the fuel pipe.

Edit
Sorry, I posted this before I saw the last post
Col

Colthebrummie said:

I would run it outside for half an hour or so, maybe there is some oil on the burner housing. If that's not the case look for a leak in the fuel pipe.

Edit
Sorry, I posted this before I saw the last post
Col

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cheers col that’s the plan

resto_d1 said:

I thibk its ****ed. I just did it again and it ran but so much smoke and it ducking stinks. I’m taking it out. All that ****ing time spent

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When switched on the electric pixies go through a sequence for start up. Similarly they nob about a bit on shut down.
Part of that sequence is running the glow plug to burn off residual fuel.
They do smoke like a bastid when this happens but only from the exhaust. It’s why I ran the exhaust pipe to the sill and out through a hole that has a 28mm brass plumbing boss screwed into it. It’s just behind the passenger door so clouds of unburnt white fuel don’t hang around under the vehicle. It was exactly the same with my Eberspacher unit.
It will need a good thrash on full blast to clean out the crap.
Don’t try to self prime. The unit has a built in prime mode. You press both the up and down buttons for ten seconds and the LDC screen says something illegible. You can then press another button (can’t remember which one) and just the pump runs. This will run until you hit the mystery button again.
This always ( if done right up to the burner) pumps far too much diesel into the combustion chamber and gives you even more billowing clouds of white smoke when you fire it up. No harm will come to the unit and it will burn it off and continue to work perfectly.
Your only getting rid of a bit of unwanted chit. Now get it back on and thrash it unmercifully ye big tart.

Oh and rout the exhaust out the side

You also say it now has a master switch.

make sure you switch it off at the LCD control first. Remember the sequence has to run full cycle and burn that spare fuel off so it will start up nicely the next time. This takes about five minutes to switch down, burn off and cool. Then and only then should you isolate it from the battery.

you’ll have to get used to switching off five minutes (sometimes more) before you arrive at your destination and kill the power.

you know it’s finished because the fan is the last thing to stop gently blowing when it’s finally cool enough to shut down.

Why didn’t you just ask before taking it all out again

I am a doctor

flat said:

solar top up panel?

Plug-in battery charger when you aren’t using it? I plug mine in often to keep it in good order

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A cheap solar conditioning panel won’t cut the mustard I’m afraid. I’ve tried it. Fine for maintaining a battery but far too weak to add much to it. Your far better off getting a larger one than the little 8x12 inch offerings in the accessory shop.
50 billi litres is about right. Or whatever they come in.

I demand a PM (so I actually see your having issues) when it’s back in and ready to fire.

in the mean time take two of these at meal times and see me in two weeks if no improvement.

resto_d1 said:

Well, I dripped a bit of fuel down the line to speed up prime process then started up. Pump clicked as it should and I watched remaining air leave. When it started though, stinking smoke was coming out of the intake?! I shut it straight off and **** myself in unison.

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Run it, it will sort itself out, you have most likely flooded it.

resto_d1 said:

I’m all wired up. I’ve wired heater power to a relay and switch meaning heater controller can’t pull power when ignition is off. I haven’t got a second battery though. Do you think I’ll be ok starting the car then starting the heater?

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The downside of your power supply idea is all the diesel heaters need a run down time when powering off (to cool down I think) so to take the power away from them before they have fully shut down might be making troubel for yourself?

Bobsticle said:

You also say it now has a master switch.

make sure you switch it off at the LCD control first. Remember the sequence has to run full cycle and burn that spare fuel off so it will start up nicely the next time. This takes about five minutes to switch down, burn off and cool. Then and only then should you isolate it from the battery.

you’ll have to get used to switching off five minutes (sometimes more) before you arrive at your destination and kill the power.

you know it’s finished because the fan is the last thing to stop gently blowing when it’s finally cool enough to shut down.

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It's been a while since I booted mine up but I think there was summat in the instructions about running it on full heat before switching off, or am I just imagining that.

Col

Colthebrummie said:

It's been a while since I booted mine up but I think there was summat in the instructions about running it on full heat before switching off, or am I just imagining that.

Col

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always on full heat in a landrover. The heat just escapes

Colthebrummie said:

It's been a while since I booted mine up but I think there was summat in the instructions about running it on full heat before switching off, or am I just imagining that.

Col

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No, you can run on any setting from start up. It is an idea to give it a good blast now and then as I should think it could gum up easily. People who have the German ones seem to recommend giving them a few blasts on paraffin now and then but they’re mostly boat freaks and we know what they’re like

lynall said:

The downside of your power supply idea is all the diesel heaters need a run down time when powering off (to cool down I think) so to take the power away from them before they have fully shut down might be making troubel for yourself?

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Yes - believe your supposed to let them do their run down sequence.

Also, I don’t even really want it for general keeping me warm - I’m not bad once it’s up and running. It’s more so I can start it on cold morns and defrost the thing!!!
I’ve been busy with more pressing matters than the heater - I’ve spent the afternoon removing crud from chassis and several rounds of degreaser. Got some lanoguard to give a whirl on it. Trying to make the rear crossmember last until March!

lynall said:

Run it, it will sort itself out, you have most likely flooded it.

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I’m thinking this is likely. I really need to run it out in some open space though as it looked like my car was doing burnouts on the drive

thinking of buying one for my 110 project

Are they worth it and any recommended links or sellers on ebay ?

Cavey_P38 said:

thinking of buying one for my 110 project

Are they worth it and any recommended links or sellers on ebay ?

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Yes.
Just got a second one via the Czech Rep. for £85. Looks as good as the first one direct from China but that was £135.
Prolly all made in the same factory so you’d be unlucky to get a dud.

just chose the controller wisely. Take into consideration the remote ones use battery power all the time. Fine under normal day to day driving but can run the battery down if you only use the landy now and then.