chassis/welding

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
T

tallpaulmcneill

New Member
Posts
1
Location
fife
hi
i went and got my self a land rover 90 about 2 months ago the body work looks good but the chassis is needing some welding asap i think , ideal a new chassis would be the answer but it not going to happen ,i would like to know if it possible
to weld this part of the chassis without removing the body?

thanks paul
 

Attachments

  • passanger side chassis rail.jpg
    passanger side chassis rail.jpg
    118.5 KB · Views: 1,368
  • driver side front leg.jpg
    driver side front leg.jpg
    144.4 KB · Views: 3,731
A definite MOT failure as it's right by the steering box mounting...and it does look really bad, generally to weld you need something to weld to!!

But to answer your original question it can be repaired without taking the body off, but you will need to remove some bits, steering box, bumper maybe? and I think you can get this as a repair section.
 
your going to need to do something about your chassis number to,the police where i live would take your landy because the chassis no. been welded over
 
how the fok is that chassi foked?!?!?!?!???!

strip all the components, cut it back to where its good metal and weld a plate!!!!

chassi foked...! jesus!
 
Agree with Jp, strip that paint back, see whats left, cut the ****ty stuff out, get some 2 or 3 mm plate, make a template, mark it out, cut plate, weld the fooker on, paint it. Piece of ****.
 
[JP];1241196 said:
how the fok is that chassi foked?!?!?!?!???!

strip all the components, cut it back to where its good metal and weld a plate!!!!

chassi foked...! jesus!
Click to expand...

you can't weld to fresh air mate - doing a few small patches is fair enough but when it gets to the stage when the dumbells need replacing and there's so much visible rot you can guarantee the remaining metal will have been thinned from the inside to such an extent that you'll be struggling to find enough thats sound enough to weld to - 150 for a new rear x member 40 each for dumbells and straight away your into good used SH chassis prices - that's without consumables and plate costs, I'll forget about the time it'll take eh

bite the bullet and do the right thing
 
fair enough... but from those 2 little pics, you cant just say, the chassi is fooked!

From what I've seen, on a hole that size, you only have to go back 3 or 4 inches, maybe not even that, to find good metal to weld..

Now, if there's loads and loads of holes like that on the chassi.....yep, fair enough, its fooked.
But if only those 2.... its an easy repair.
 
[JP];1241461 said:
fair enough... but from those 2 little pics, you cant just say, the chassi is fooked!
.
Click to expand...

I can, you don't get dumbbells in that condition without the rest of the chassis being in a very similar state

I'd reckon the underseal forms at least 20% of the chassis structural strength
 
Im with Sean on this one, if my chassis looked like that I would have been looking to replace it.

Best thing the OP can do is go round it with a hammer and find out if there is anything left/salvagable, he may be lucky but if it has rusted through the repair aswell then I wouldnt hold out much hope for the original parts.
 
Pod51 said:
Agree with Jp, strip that paint back, see whats left, cut the ****ty stuff out, get some 2 or 3 mm plate, make a template, mark it out, cut plate, weld the fooker on, paint it. Piece of ****.
Click to expand...

anyone who suggests plating a chassis with 2mm plate has zero credibility

hey why not fold up some baking foil and evostick it on
 
I know they all rot in different places at different times - mine had similar holes on main chassis legs near rear suspension. There were a few on here who said probably be alright with a little welding, but I went galv chassis route. When I had a good old poke around on old chassis, it were proper fooked all over the place!! In fact, only place it was sound was where yours has gone!!!
 
Sean said:
anyone who suggests plating a chassis with 2mm plate has zero credibility

hey why not fold up some baking foil and evostick it on
Click to expand...


Don't be a cock , replacement richards chassis wall thickness is 3mm :doh: So I stand by my 2/3mm plate of mild steeliness.

If I had taken the advice that I must get a new chassis after finding a rusty hell then I would have been about 3 grand down now and not £50 including paint. Sure it took a crap load of work but it's all good now.
 
Last edited:
Pod51 said:
Don't be a cock , replacement richards chassis wall thickness is 3mm :doh: So I stand by my 2/3mm plate of mild steeliness.

If I had taken the advice that I must get a new chassis after finding a rusty hell then I would have been about 3 grand down now and not £50 including paint. Sure it took a crap load of work but it's all good now.
Click to expand...

would you really repair the holes pictured above with 2mm plate when even by your own admission the usual wall thickness is a minimum of 3mm ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

jimllshiftit
Any advice for novice welder about to stitch new rear cross member to 90 chassis?
Replies
3
Views
880
tottot
tottot
OlympicLiftingPaulF
Having a new chassis on my 90 - and what else......?
Replies
5
Views
351
Knappster
Knappster
L
Replacement chassis
Replies
11
Views
2K
MrF
M
F
Clarke welder
Replies
1
Views
522
tilly2
T
L
Rotten front cross member
Replies
11
Views
1K
Anaconda
A
Back
Top