Chassis rust

My suggestion is to use what I sell, but then it would be, which is why I sell it.

Corroless CCI works how you would like to think dinitrol and waxoil work.

If it sounds too much like snake oil, that's because it is not cheap, and until I started recently within the UK it is not targeted at automotive uses, because they are too busy selling it in larger quantities to everyone else, rather than packaging it in shiny box's and using lots of big words to sell it.

(You lot, including me ask too many questions about a product, vs how much we buy, so economically it's debatable if I can establish a market for it..

I don't know if my business will succeed long term due to the "hard sell" of premium I.e not cheap coatings, but we shall see.

My site is www.facebook.com/buzzweld

The main thing is your prep. Put more effort in to that and even cheap coats will stand a chance of lasting.

Not trying to break with tradition, but if you flap disc back your chassis, and are using out product, there is no harm in water spraying your chassis and leaving it a few days to lightly corrode all over. This acts as a fantastic key to the product, and allows it to work with the corrossion that you induced.

As I said, corroless sounds too easily like snake oil, because it does not confirm to our typically way of thinking about vehicle prep and repair.

I was about to click "buy it now" when I noticed the postage cost. For the 2, 500ml, cans it would be 16 quid for postage (7.99 each). Making the whole thing 50 quid a litre. It might be good but I aint paying that for a litre of paint.

I gather that salted winter roads are the cause of your corrosion woes.
Ever considered rustproofing with fish oil? I have done all the inside of my old Disco everywhere I can get to with the stuff from an aerosol can. It stinks a bit for a while but it seems to soak and "wick into" every nook and cranny.
It has worked well even just over already rusted surfaces it seals and holds the onset of rust.
Not expensive, especially the non-deodorised stuff, (if you can stand the pong).

Gazbo said:

I gather that salted winter roads are the cause of your corrosion woes.
Ever considered rustproofing with fish oil? I have done all the inside of my old Disco everywhere I can get to with the stuff from an aerosol can. It stinks a bit for a while but it seems to soak and "wick into" every nook and cranny.
It has worked well even just over already rusted surfaces it seals and holds the onset of rust.
Not expensive, especially the non-deodorised stuff, (if you can stand the pong).

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Add to that the cats love you..... Disco Pussy wagon with pussy cats coming from all around for a lick.... thinking how rough a cats tongue is they probably wouldn't do a bad job of roughing it back to bare metal

So long as the Tomcats don't pee on it I can put up with the fishy smell ok.

We also have stuff out here that is called "Penetrol", it is like a really thin oily consistency petroleum based product that dries hard like a clear lacquer over the surfaces it is applied to.
I have seen it used on polished steel surfaces, (side rods on a steam loco), that will normally get a layer of rust on them shortly after polishing, apply penetrol and they stay shiny and rust free, it also "wicks in" to seams and rust flakes really well.
I have heard it is expensive though so it may be similar in nature to some of the pre-mentioned products available over your side.

Fizzer said:

I was about to click "buy it now" when I noticed the postage cost. For the 2, 500ml, cans it would be 16 quid for postage (7.99 each). Making the whole thing 50 quid a litre. It might be good but I aint paying that for a litre of paint.

Click to expand...

I am still refining many things.. But we combine postage. So two cans would be one postage. If you contact me via facebook it is easier to sort this, or do you a custom listing. I cannot get ebay to change the way the postage works but will ASAP.

Our postage is high because we are one of few companies selling correctly. I.e if Royal Mail find you are sending paint through their network you can end up in court, so at massive length due to EU legislation we have a proper dangerous goods agreement.

Hi all, im a big advocate of Duck Oil (marketed by Swarfega) its very penetrating and will find its way underneath failing paint surfaces and rust accelerating wax products. After a couple of applications with a pump sprayer the chassis will constantly look wet with oil and a perfect water barrier as it continually passivates the steel surfaces arresting any further deterioration. I do this once every six months and my Disco2 is testament to its effectiveness. Internal corrosion must also be considered and Duck Oil is perfect for this (Chassis Wand on eBay) will reach deep inside the chassis box sections and Cills. If you regularly subject your Landie to off-road use then nothing betters regular applications of Duck Oil to keep the Rust Gremlins away...

Waxoyl or any other good preventive internally or externally. Underseal is good if applied to clean dry substrate. But this time of year is not a good time to be applying it, all you are doing is sealing moisture in. Applying underseal over rust is a fools game.

My perspective is that there seams to be a growing number of people that have witnessed similar moisture trapping and excellerated corrosion under Waxoyl when it's applied over previously corroded steel, I know that I've been disappointed how corrosion tends to sweat under these waxy layers, to the point that I have removed the Waxoyl in preference to a preserving and moisture displacing oil spray every six months or so..with great results.