Chassis replacement

I'm looking into doing this as my chassis is in a terrible state. Its a C plate 90 2.5N/A and never been waxoyled. Are there any publications that describe whats involved and does anyone have any job lists/advice. I will have to dismantle the body as have no way of lifting high or use of any helpers.

thanks

jeremy

I have piccies and things. I will post them when I get home and give you an idea of the job.

jerf said:

I'm looking into doing this as my chassis is in a terrible state. Its a C plate 90 2.5N/A and never been waxoyled. Are there any publications that describe whats involved and does anyone have any job lists/advice. I will have to dismantle the body as have no way of lifting high or use of any helpers.

thanks

jeremy

Click to expand...

inspiration is what ya need .... have a look at this and just do it...

clicky link...

Picasa Web Albums - rick - 256mb memory ...#

You'll need at least one other pair of hands to help you for sure because the back tub will be a little awkward else!!

I found that the best way to do it was by taking the floor panels and transmission tunnel out, but leave the galvonised sills and seatbox attatched to the tub. This eliminates tackling all of those rusted up bolts which you can't reach with an angle grinder. Just undo the two nuts which connect the front of the sills to the b/head mounts (and all of the tub mount bolts!).

I managed a complete chassis change in two days including swapping the dash onto a new Td5 b/head. But then I had the help of three other volunteers and a forklift!

Take the seat box off seperately to the rear tub If the bolts are seized they'll snap off anyway and once the footwell floorpanels, transmission tunnel & seat box are off you can get access to all the tub mounting bolts anyway. Get lots of small tubs for the nuts and bolts and label which tub go with what. If possible put the screw or bolt back in the hole in the item it goes with and stick a bit of tape over so you don't lose it. This way you'll know which bolts goes with which part. When it all goes back together.

Thanks for that - the more photos the better. Is it the shell/tub that causes most of the problems? How heavy is it? How much of the hard work involved could be done while the car is being used as a daily commute ie sorting out seized bolts/ rotten brackets etc. Does the Haynes manual describe a method?

thanks

Roof and sides are easy to get off. Tub is managable on your own but easier with 2 people. Once you start to undo it. Do it all in one go. Don't drive it around once you've started to remove bolts from it

Forget Haynes they just aren't aimed at this sort of refurb. Once you start you'll be amazed at how simple it is . (seized bolts excepted)

I know it int all that poplier but LRO have been doing a series on repolacing the chassis on a damaged 90 (or was it a 110) - anyway, lot6s of piccies, lots of dvicce, lots of adverts for ****part but it might be useful.

It was I that have done LRO's vehicle! and I've done my own at the same time. I had a second pair of axles to start my rebuild while the vehicle was still on the road. This meant that I had a rolling chassis with most of the break lines already sorted before my vehicle was taken off the road.

redhand said:

Take the seat box off seperately to the rear tub If the bolts are seized they'll snap off anyway and once the footwell floorpanels, transmission tunnel & seat box are off you can get access to all the tub mounting bolts anyway. Get lots of small tubs for the nuts and bolts and label which tub go with what. If possible put the screw or bolt back in the hole in the item it goes with and stick a bit of tape over so you don't lose it. This way you'll know which bolts goes with which part. When it all goes back together.

Click to expand...

PIKEY

Fooking put new nuts and bolts on.

Note what type of bolt is used where but replace the lot.

Buy a few good quality nut/bolt/washer selection packs and replace the lot.

Oh and cover them all in copper slip as you go.

discomania said:

PIKEY

Fooking put new nuts and bolts on.

Note what type of bolt is used where but replace the lot.

Buy a few good quality nut/bolt/washer selection packs and replace the lot.

Oh and cover them all in copper slip as you go.

Click to expand...

I was referring to things like the dashboard & instrument pod screws etc etc, which don't need replacing. Any fooker wiv harf a braincell knows you replace all the body mounting bolts with new ones. Bit dark but ya can see that the bolts is noo.

Oh right OK...

We all know your a good guy redhand. (Sig material)

Those pictures are ace - it does look more like a restoration project than a fix so its probably going to have to wait until I have the use of a 2nd car and take it off the road for a few months. In the mean time - whats the name of the cross member near the rear shock mountings? Mines rusted to bits and access for welding on the top is minimal - should I unrivet/remove the floor to get access?

thanks

jerf said:

Those pictures are ace - it does look more like a restoration project than a fix so its probably going to have to wait until I have the use of a 2nd car and take it off the road for a few months. In the mean time - whats the name of the cross member near the rear shock mountings? Mines rusted to bits and access for welding on the top is minimal - should I unrivet/remove the floor to get access?

thanks

Click to expand...

No remove the bolts holding the rear tub to the chassis and lift the tub up as high as it will go without forcing it. you should be able to get in to weld it then.