Chassis help
- Thread starter Td5Tramp
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You want to put the D2 body on the D1 chassis?
Has been done before, you would have to use the original D1 ID as the chassis is the identification.
I the D1 just a chassis or a rolling chassis with axles etc?
I havent seen anyone thats done it before im literally 26 bought my first lanny. No axles just chassis, just wondered if anyone had heard anythin like it
So have u heard it been done as its a drastic price from a new fabricated one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...974259?hash=item215968fff3:g:xz4AAOSwYFlcyD7H
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Like I say, it has been done before.
Bare chassis make it harder because D2 has different axles front and rear as well as the means of locating them on the chassis, it can be done but you will need to get handy with your welder.
It is a big job and I truly mean it's a big job as you'll need to build up a rolling chassis out of your D2 drive train and then transfer your D2 body onto the other chassis, and then you have all the electricals and brakes to get sorted.
If you are good with spanners and a welder then you'll have a fun project for the summer.
Henry_b
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Just drop a D2 chassis under it..
Or patch yours.
I've seen D1 and D2 chassis that are like a quilt..
No riginal metal left just plates and **** welds
Or patch yours.
I've seen D1 and D2 chassis that are like a quilt..
No riginal metal left just plates and **** welds
I know I think i need a better welder he seemed really shockedJust drop a D2 chassis under it..
Or patch yours.
I've seen D1 and D2 chassis that are like a quilt..
No riginal metal left just plates and **** welds
Tell me about it should of thought twice before wantin a LR
Henry_b
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Yep no welding job is too big, just can get frustrating sometimes when you have no rigid metal to weld too.. thats when a tub of fiberglass filler and metal shavings come in handy, oh and tigerseal
lol Hahaha did u copy and paste that from ur MOTYep no welding job is too big, just can get frustrating sometimes when you have no rigid metal to weld too.. thats when a tub of fiberglass filler and metal shavings come in handy, oh and tigerseal
Henry_b
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brianconwy
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When you say riddled, do you mean with perforations or just rust? Where are the perforations?
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Nothing wrong with wanting a Land Rover, but with all things it's buyer beware and buy the best you can afford and be prepared to walk away from anything that's not 100% or at least doable in terms of your ability to repair it.
You bought a pup with a bad chassis because you didn't know what you were looking at or where to beat it to death with yo toffee hammer, that's on you not the vehicle.
Get a handle on how far the rot extends and see about getting a 1/2 ~ 1/4 chassis repair section and get that fitted if you can afford it.
If the rest is good, worth repairing. Mine is in for a erar end rebuild soon, I have replaced brakes, got bushes on front ARB, track rod to do.
ACE leak, need to wait and see if fixed.
Irefusd the offer to remove, I pointed out to them the hydraulic hoses and the fact one leak had gone as I had fixed it.
ACE leak, need to wait and see if fixed.
Irefusd the offer to remove, I pointed out to them the hydraulic hoses and the fact one leak had gone as I had fixed it.
Yeah I suppose I’ll get some pics tomorrow an see what ya think
I’ll give you that one like there’s not a patch on itNope just an industry secret
I 'ave a P38 they dunt rust
No rust!! 18yrs old!!
Ahem
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