Chassis bush tolerance

STILL sorting my springs on the lightweight, wish I never removed the bush now

nevermind, anyway. Its been extremely hard to wind in the new bush, I got it to within 7-8mm but mashed the end so just cut it out and started again. I filed the inner chassis sleeve and then polished it up, just pushed the new one in, didnt go in easy, needed the 2ft breaker bar (again) and snapped my M12 threaded rod 3 times through grim determination its now in most of the way, the outer sleeve bit of the bush is about 1mm out of the chassis sleeve. Will this suffice? Im out of patience, threaded bar and washers. I want to get the spring back on this side this weekend and do the otherside to.

Will it be ok 1mm out? I cant seem to get it in anymore without smashing all my stuff! :blabla:

G

Hi,

Look ..... your chassis bush is knackered. The easy solution is to buy a new chassis with those bushes already fitted.

Just an idea ...... get a bit of threaded rod and two nuts. Fix bush on end of rod, with enough rod to hang onto without your hands getting close to the bush. Then nip down to your local DIY store, and buy a can of that FREEZING gas that plumbers use to cause a blockage in a water pipe, so they can cut into it without having to drain down the system. See what I'm getting at? Will it work? It might be an idea to leave the bush, on the rod, in your wife's freezer over night, to develop a bit of deep permafrost. Er.....and HURRY.

Please tell me if it works.

602

Wtf?

I have to say that I always put Series spring bushes in the freezer over night before fitting. Giving them a bit of a polish with 1000 grid paper helps too.

I would leave as is. 1mm isn't that much, and to be honest I have rectified worse.

cheers Andy

It was in the freezer for 5 days! Did help, but not enough. dont understand why it was so tight. my mates series said he just used some M8 bar and a spanner. I have had to employ much more ruthless tactics to get it in there!

Nevermind. Other side this weekend the rears can wait!

G

Possible there is rust in the chassis hole.

I also have one of those Bushwacka tools. Don't under estimate the advantage of fine thread on the thread bar. The Bushwacka has this and the bar itself seems to be very high tensile.

Note rears have less friction. The front chassis bushes are the longest of them all. All the others, chassis and spring, are the same length and shorter.

Started the otherside today, axle painted, nothing to do now but wait to put more coats on. question now, do I reomve this bush and replace or leave well alone?

How do you tell if the bush is worn and needs replaceing? seems ok to me, but im no expert. Dont want the hassle/rigmorole that I had on the last one!

any thoughts?

G

If it's any consolation I had the same problem with my series 3.

Cleaned/polished hole/bush with emery cloth on the end of a shaft in drill, Bush in freezer, hair dryer/convector heater on chassis,greased hole,made a tool,bust it ,made another,bust that too 12mm rod kept breaking!!!!!

Ended up with 14mm threaded rod, nuts & washers on both sides & breaker bar with a tube. What a bastide I regreted taking the fecking things out too.

Oh and if I remember correctly they do stick out a mm or 2 on each side.

Good luck!