Chassis blackout

Wimblowdriver said:

We used to use mordant wash (and rinse off) before applying primer to galvanised steel. Then etch primers took over a couple of decades ago. You don't need mordant wash before an etch primer.

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Mackers said:

I've read the other threads. It just gets confusing, so I like to ask in a poll-like fashion. So:

Option 1: wash, mordant t-wash, etch prime and satin black top coat for chassis and bumpers, or

Option 2: Steam and Dinatrol?

Thanks for responding if you do.

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Mackers said:

Cheers. I've just this minute found this article though, and it reckons I shouldn't use mordant on weathered galvanised (I forgot to say that my galvanised bits are about 5 years old). Oxide and black seems the sequence after that though.

https://www.galvanizing.org.uk/painting-galvanized-steel/

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resto_d1 said:

Most red oxides aren't what they were mackers. Have a look on bilt hamber site. I don't know if you currently have rust but I'd brush back as much as possible, hydrate 80 on any remaining to stabilize, electrox primer then epoxy mastic paint. Epoxy has flex in it meaning that it's got flex in it. I did a lot of my repairs in it and it's hard as nails

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mick 1986 said:

The stuff I used is by a company called Tor Coatings. It was almost £10/litre and the 5 lit tub weighed over 20Kg. It’s packed full of zinc, and stinks to high heaven. I wouldn’t think twice about recommending it to anyone.

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resto_d1 said:

Always a great sign when a pail weighs a lot. That's like the electrox by the sounds of it. I meant more hammerite kind of red oxide I.e. off the shelf bnq kind of products seem to be water based junk. What did you go over the top with? I went for corroless in the end as top coat.

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