changing offside cv joint

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THEengineer

THEengineer

whatever
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near big mountains and lots of mud
doing this next weekend so getting the parts in advance so do i need anything else?
couple of questions though,in busters guide he shows grease going on the roller bearings on the back of the cv is this normal axle grease? i have the brown type but his is grey
also i plan on buying a box spanner to remove the hub nut i though how do i torque it up afterwards?
 

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anyway back to normal service, the CV sits in one shot when in service so how about filling it with some of that? and torquing the hub? have you not had to do your bearings yet, its the same procedure so inside nut tighten to seat bearing then back off the nut half a turn and just nip up basically finger tight, then locking washer and second nut on over locking washer and tighten until you start to lose free movement on the hub, not too tight mind. Im sure somebody will be along with figures and stuff soon but after doing so many bearings now i never torque it up just till it feels right, do you have fresh bearings to go on ? may as well whilst its apart.
 
DiscoPol said:
anyway back to normal service, the CV sits in one shot when in service so how about filling it with some of that? and torquing the hub? have you not had to do your bearings yet, its the same procedure so inside nut tighten to seat bearing then back off the nut half a turn and just nip up basically finger tight, then locking washer and second nut on over locking washer and tighten until you start to lose free movement on the hub, not too tight mind. Im sure somebody will be along with figures and stuff soon but after doing so many bearings now i never torque it up just till it feels right, do you have fresh bearings to go on ? may as well whilst its apart.
Click to expand...

cheers pol new bearings went in 3 months ago but as it is with landys no clicking then,now its clicking its nuts off slowly getting louder
 
THEengineer said:
doing this next weekend so getting the parts in advance so do i need anything else?
couple of questions though,in busters guide he shows grease going on the roller bearings on the back of the cv is this normal axle grease? i have the brown type but his is grey
also i plan on buying a box spanner to remove the hub nut i though how do i torque it up afterwards?
Click to expand...

just use one shot put some in when fitting doesnt need to be packed though,if yours is 30o tdi inner nuts adjusted to just remove play outer just tight
 
DiscoPol said:
anyway back to normal service, the CV sits in one shot when in service so how about filling it with some of that? and torquing the hub? have you not had to do your bearings yet, its the same procedure so inside nut tighten to seat bearing then back off the nut half a turn and just nip up basically finger tight, then locking washer and second nut on over locking washer and tighten until you start to lose free movement on the hub, not too tight mind. Im sure somebody will be along with figures and stuff soon but after doing so many bearings now i never torque it up just till it feels right, do you have fresh bearings to go on ? may as well whilst its apart.
Click to expand...

Kind of, seat bearings, back off and adjust first nut, lock washer and second nut finger tight then bend the tab over the flat on the first nut.....now it can't move so the second nut can be tightened without moving the first.

Bend washer over second nut....job done
 
blue beasty said:
Kind of, seat bearings, back off and adjust first nut, lock washer and second nut finger tight then bend the tab over the flat on the first nut.....now it can't move so the second nut can be tightened without moving the first.

Bend washer over second nut....job done
Click to expand...

the tabbed washers are keyed with a flat to the bottom that seats against the flat on the bottom of the stub so it cant turn and effectively creates a non spinning barrier between the nuts preventing any movement of the inner nut,once all nipped up then i bend the lock washer in all the right places, if you want to be pedantic oh turquoise one:p
 
DiscoPol said:
the tabbed washers are keyed with a flat to the bottom that seats against the flat on the bottom of the stub so it cant turn and effectively creates a non spinning barrier between the nuts preventing any movement of the inner nut,once all nipped up then i bend the lock washer in all the right places, if you want to be pedantic oh turquoise one:p
Click to expand...

Fair enough, I but I'd say it's betterer to lock the first nut in position with the correct load on the bearing and then tighten the second nut against it.

Quite a bit betterer :eek:
 
blue beasty said:
Fair enough, I but I'd say it's betterer to lock the first nut in position with the correct load on the bearing and then tighten the second nut against it.

Quite a bit betterer :eek:
Click to expand...

I hear ya but ive tried both ways and it makes cock all difference to my discos, they eat bearings because i play in an old sand quarry most of the time with plenty of wet sticky abrasive mud, run wheel spacers and drive like a twonk so it seems that i am doing the bearings about once every 6 months at best, i tried timken made no diffrence, i tried locking every think in place , made no difference, tried hub seals with garter springs, made no difference, tried waterproof marine grease, made no difference so now i do em quick and cheap and change em regular and that seems to be the only answer so, i say each to their own and :p:p:p:p
 
blue beasty said:
Fair enough, I but I'd say it's betterer to lock the first nut in position with the correct load on the bearing and then tighten the second nut against it.

Quite a bit betterer :eek:
Click to expand...

hmm makes no difference ,i bend washer after tightening 2nd nut, when you tighten 2nd nut it adds a little load as first nut is pushed against opposite side of thread
 
jamesmartin said:
hmm makes no difference ,i bend washer after tightening 2nd nut, when you tighten 2nd nut it adds a little load as first nut is pushed against opposite side of thread
Click to expand...

Like I said....fair enough, but a little extra load will be added anyway as there's some movement in the washer.

Probably part of the reason I do it like that is working primarily on Series' that only have the little tab that sits in the groove on the stub which is a bit more fragile than the later flat type.

So long as it works tis all good :)
 
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