changed gearbox now clutch problem

1997 300TDi Defender
Changed gearbox and put on new clutch and HD thrust bearing. HD lever arm came with 2nd hand gearbox.

Cleaned out clutch slave cylinder no leaks or scoring reassembled and bled system.
Put box in gear depressed clutch output not turning so clutch not releasing.
Removed slave cylinder from bell-housing, no leaks found.
Push rod from piston to lever arm when pushed into housing stuck out about an inch from the bell-housing mating surface, I assume this means the thrust bearing is correctly located? I did check this before finally joining box to engine but you know what Murphy's law is like and how Sod's law usually takes over afterwards.

The 2nd hand box's number is still below the cut off for the change over in slave cylinders so the old cylinder should still fit.

Tomorrow (or when it's dry) I'll lift the front of the landy up and bleed the system again or will it be off with the box again and check everything again for the umpteenth time.
Any suggestions on what to try or check next gratefully received as I'm getting near to breaking point.

Cheers
Cothy

Friction plate round right way?

the friction plate I believe goes double side out so that it sits against the fly wheel I tried it the other way and it sits against the flywheel nuts and then there is a gap between flywheel and friction plate. If I have to take the box off again I will check that as the writing on the plate is visible through the clutch fingers.

Friction plate stuck on shaft splines? have seen this before after fitting new clutch where rust and crap wasnt cleaned off well enough.

Did have a problem with the splines at first which stopped the box going on but I cleaned them and made sure that the plate slid along the splines freely on the 2nd hand box, I even put it on both ways to make sure before centring it to the spigot bush and attaching the clutch. That time it only took 5 minutes to line up the box and it slipped on without any effort. I will bear this in mind if (it now looks more like when) if the box comes off again.

Have you got your hi lol in gear?

Tried it in high and low ratios but it acted as if the clutch was still engaging.

Today I tried it again in gear and all ratios but it acted as if the clutch was dis-engaged.

So I think I'm trying to hard to understand the ins and out of the Landy box as it was OK when I first got it.

Today I lifted the front end and bled the clutch again and left it at that.
I decided that the box needs to be turned by the engine to get the new oil circulating through the gears in both gearbox and transfer box so I'll work on getting the engine running without the propshafts connected and then see how things are going.

Then will it be out or not for the box?

Knowing my luck it will be start again from the beginning.

Check the slave again,sounds as if release bearing and fork are correct if rod just poking out of housing with bearing in contact with clutch. It still could be the wrong one.

Did you have to pull the slave cylinder into place or did it slide on by hand?
Is there any free play at the master cylinder end under the inspection plate?
From memory the clutch is just a push jobby so you cant really get the release bearing wrong unless you have somehow got the fingers the wrong side, but that would take some doing!

Get the engine turning things before whipping the box out. If the friction plate is stuck on the splines a bit of movement may free it.

Cheers lads will check all the above.

BUT

Murphy's Law? Nope

Sod's Law? Nope

It's Landy Law that rules!!!!

Put the engine back together to spin the box and no ignition now
Oil light weak
No ignition light
Glow plug light working on and off
front fog light on!!!???
Turn key everything goes off and there is a faint click
Then if left for a while oil and ignition light comes on bright but when I switch key off then on again I'm back to the beginning.

So it's out with the circuit tester and spare relay not to mention the books and cruising the threads on ignition did I mention prayers to the Landy Gods? Should help.

Battery voltage, if okay put back on the earth lead you have forgotten about

12.4 volts across the battery terminals so I thought I'd charge the battery up anyway while I clean and check the terminals as the fuse box is still covered in oil even after a few cleans. This would be an excellent time to do it properly.

When I got the Maggie the engine and engine compartment was covered in oil and had leaked into the cab covering the fuse box. It just takes time to get every bit.

Using Brake and clutch cleaner to loosen the baked in stuff then a second application seems to chase the rest from hard to get places. The wires can be wiped down with a cloth and the terminals cleaned with emery cloth. then checked for continuity giving the cleaner time to evaporate.

Weather is really wintery today for driveway repairs so this may take some time and a chance to catch up on other things.

Next I'll hook up the battery, turn on the ignition, see what happens and take it from there.

I'll start a new thread for the ignition problem then come back here after that's sorted.

HD lever arm is your problem throw it in the bin & get a genuine, had the same prob recently after fitting 2 new clutches & box out 3 times

I'll bear that in mind.
A few people have mentioned that in other threads but just trying to get the engine started now!

Bad Earth sorted now.

After staring her I Left the engine running in neutral for a while then in every gear for approx. five minutes each time then did the same in both ratios and everything seems to be settling down nicely.

Clutch seems to be working so I'm putting the worry about the problems down to paranoia on my part.

Next I'll start putting her back together between rain showers.
Bet you I'll still get wet.
Hey I think a polar bear just went past! No it's OK it was just next doors cat, not much difference really.