Central locking in a k reg 90

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D4m13nB3rry

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32
ok i just finished installing a new alarm system and central locking to my 90 took me 2 and a half days in total but i am very happy with the end result.
i now have an alarm immobiliser remote start {for those cold winter mornings} and central locking,

the few things i am still to do...
rear door central locking {i am in need of advice for this part}
the spare locking actuator i am am wanting to use as a electric pull for my bonnet as my catch is knackered, { any suggestions on the best way to go about this?} i am unsure where the best mounting spot would be.

any advice on anything i would greatly appreciate

also if anyone is thinking of putting central locking on their fender and is after any advice i can lend a hand, {vocal or hands on} i am located in Leigh, wigan

Thanks in advanced
Damien
 
I installed central locking onto the front doors last week and have just finished wiring them through a new fuse box so everythings looking tidy now. Im going to do the rear door lock tomorrow so will post up some piccys to show you how ive mounted it.

As long as the actuator is strong enough to release the bonnet catch im sure it would work pretty well, although id retain the cable so if the battery goes flat, youre still able to gain access to the engine. The locking mechanisms are just driven by 12dc motors so if you pass current through it one way it'll lock and the other way it will unlock so i should imagine they would be pretty simple to wire up to two 'push to make' switches in the dash, one to lock, the other to unlock.


Ollie
 
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Like olmasters says, the bonnet release cable is pretty hard to pull at the best of times, so the actuator will have to be pretty beefy (and mounted securely too.... you don't want it pulling off of the bodywork instead of pulling the cable!)

I think you can just about fit a CDL actuator to the early type rear door, or if you find one at the right price, a post Td5 rear door has all the holes ready to fix a CDL solenoid (and the room under the plastic trim), i fitted one to my 110 so i can lock/unlock the rear door from the dash.
 
hmm will have to look into that, i'll take some pics of the bonnet release when i get round to sorting it.
 
The locking mechanisms are just driven by 12dc motors so if you pass current through it one way it'll lock and the other way it will unlock so i should imagine they would be pretty simple to wire up to two 'push to make' switches in the dash, one to lock, the other to unlock.


Ollie
i have made a single button lock and unlock which looks neat and tidy, will take a pic and post it up
 
i have made a single button lock and unlock which looks neat and tidy, will take a pic and post it up

That would be good, as Diesel Jim also said, i'd preffer to control locking of the rear door as and when required, rather than everytime i unlock the main doors, so that would be much appriciated.


Last summer I made a rear door pannel for my 90 that sits flush with the door frame as shown. Athough I could have got the grinder out and just cut a hole for the central locking motor to fit into the panel, if possible I wanted to everything looking flush so i wouldnt have to fab a cover to hide it away.

dscf1230t.jpg


Next i offered the motor up to the door frame and took measurments which i was then able to transfer to a piece of 1.5mm steel, this was then cut out and riveted (indicated by red arrows) to the door frame.

dscf1234.jpg



The photo below shows the final mounting, the motor was infact slightly wider than the door frame, so to make it fit flush i had to trim the screw mounts down slightly. The cut outs in the steel mount also take account of the curved sections of the motor which are wider than the main body. They also allow the lock push rod to be installed/removed without having to take off the mount.

dscf1248.jpg



Ive basically finished this now, but will post more piccies tomorrow when my camera is nice and charged again

hope this helps

Ollie
 
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looking good can't wait to see the end result, i too would like to have mine as neat as possible, i will be leaving the rear door connected to the front doors or i think the system i have allows you to release the boot via an additional relay and pressing and holding the unlock button for 3 seconds will have to double check
 
Risht sorry for the wait, had a bit of camera trouble

This image shows how the door motor is connected to the locking mechanism via a rod. I took about an hour trying to find the best shape and this is the most effective method i found. Although the basic shape was simple, the top loop of the rod attached to the lock lever required enough free play to allow the lever to lock / unlock through a slight rotation, whilst not ebing overly slack so that the lock motor wouldnt lock and unlock consistantly.

dscf1255.jpg


To allow the push rod to exit the door panel, ive just chain drilled a slot then filled it smooth and applied some black spray paint to fininish it up. Although the rod currently exits the door panel, in due course I will probably make up a cover to enclose it, as ive done with the wiper motor, check bar and for the wiring. Although for now, its fairly discrete so im fairly happy with it.

dscf1258.jpg


Heres just a closepup of the rod shape

dscf1262.jpg


Hope this helps

Ollie
 
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