Can this be fixed? Clutch slave problem.

Can this be fixed? Clutch slave problem.

Has anyone ever tried to weld this back up? I am 1000miles from a rover parts dealer and I need a solution.

This is the bracket that holds the slave cylinder onto the transmission. I figure it cracked, bent and the plastics all shattered. I have the new part but it just wouldn’t line up correctly so I pulled the bracket.

Can this be welded or do I need to get a new bracket?

Wouldnt risk anything other than a new one myself - plenty on e bay, find one with a quick postage option ...other than that a scrappy might have a decent one.

Shipping is the real problem. I just paid over 100GBP to get the other parts here!

I am on my way to see the best welder on the island but I don't have high hopes for getting this square again.

Anyone have an oem part number for this?

Is the part number UUU100690

They can be welded if you are miles from a cheap solution. You need to make sure the clutch release lever is free as a stiff lever is often the reason for the bracket failing

I just met with the welder, he says he can fix it but it will crack again. I think I am going to go new.

How stiff is stiff? How do i fix it if it is hard to move? It is hot and dry here, everyting needs 2x maint on grease and lube.

4flats said:

I just met with the welder, he says he can fix it but it will crack again. I think I am going to go new.

How stiff is stiff? How do i fix it if it is hard to move? It is hot and dry here, everyting needs 2x maint on grease and lube.

Click to expand...

Then he is not a good welder then. a good welder can do that and not crack agaim. Proper fitment and joint prep a real easy job.

4flats said:

I just met with the welder, he says he can fix it but it will crack again. I think I am going to go new.

How stiff is stiff? How do i fix it if it is hard to move? It is hot and dry here, everyting needs 2x maint on grease and lube.

Click to expand...

It should weld ok and last!! The lever on the box should move freely when given a wiggle. If not you need to free it up, I use light oil applied to the shaft where it goes through the gearbox case to get it moving then once it's free a drop of engine oil every other month is all that's required to keep it from seizing again.

4flats said:

Is the part number UUU100690

Click to expand...

Yes thats the part number - like nodge says when you get the new or welded bracket fitted make sure that the linkage arm is well lubricated to reduce the risk of the bracket breaking again

I think you are onto the orgin of this problem. I can't move it by hand as it sits.

4flats said:

I think you are onto the orgin of this problem. I can't move it by hand as it sits.

Click to expand...

Told you The brackets/ cylinders generally fail due to the lever being seized !!

How hard should it be to move? I got it moving about 4 deg from 12 o clock to the right to 5 deg or so. I put as much pressure on it as I could by hand but couldn't get it to move any further.

What is next? More oil? More pressure? Is it toast?

I just found this old thread, says I need about 50mm of throw? I am going to try tapping it a bit with the hammer.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/leaver-siezed-clutch-206540.html

Somone stop me if this is a bad idea.

use a bigger hammer

It moves freely now about 1 inch back and forth with no spring action. In either position the trans is still in gear. It is not disengaging the clutch.

Any ideas? Could the clutch just be fried? It is my wife's car so I have no idea what was happening prior to the break down.

you have to fight the clutch spring pressure to get it to move any further, just make sure the movement you get can be made using your little finger, then you will know that the lever arm is free in its bush, and yes a competent welder would not hesitate with that bracket.