Freelander 1 Buying my first Landrover

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Jordan1992

New Member
Posts
5
Location
Glasgow
Hi all,

Hope someone here will be able to help me, I've been looking all over the internet about information on buying landrovers and came across this forum.I've had a look around and read a lot of the threads which have been helpful.

I'm looking for advice on is what to look for when buying a LandRover. I really want the FreeLander and have seen quite a few that I'm interested in - between 2002-2005 some are 1.8 petrol some are 2.0 TDI which is the biggest engine size I will go for because of insurance. The price for them all has been between £1000 - £2000 which is what I'm looking to spend between.

Anyway I was hoping to get some advice on what to look out for, what the main faults are and if the head gasket issues for the 1.8 petrols have been fixed on the 1.8 petrol model after 2002. I've read a few things saying stay away from Petrol, just wanted to make sure this is the same for the models after 2002 as I don't mind buying a diesel anyway.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Well first learn to love your road tax and insurance is the first priority. anything before March 2001 doesn't get hit with EU car emission tax. Petrol and Diesels BOTH have faults is not service history is not regular. When viewing first ask to see MOTs and any receipts of work carried out as this will give you a view of what repairs or major repairs are done or will need to be done. Next if it looks bad it is bad most Freelanders would be abused to the drivechain so therefore look underneath for propshafts to the front and rear and the VCU if they are there. On this point take an expert with you for propshafts and vcu need someone in the know to tell if there is an issue that will cost to replace. when in the landrover make sure all works starting as duff batteries hide a multitude of sins. If ok check that windows doors and tailgate drops correctly. tailgate uses remote control near it to drop a inch to allow you open with the handle. Also inside press the console button near the gearstick to unlock all doors. Make sure the keys function to open the door on the driver's sides. hope this helps a little as a grown up will come a long with better advise soon. If it feels wrong and you do not like it reject it as there are more available.
 
Welcome!
Search function is you're friend here been covered loads of times

Pay particular attention to sections involving VCU ~(viscous coupling unit) and IRD (intermediate reduction drive) and how to test their function.

If you go to look at any look at any make sure the prop shaft is still in place as if it's not there on arrival or the advert says " propshaft removed for economy" its bull droppings and usually means seller ignored the warning signs and is trying to cover up a stiffening VCU or IRD damage that resulted.

Other than that

Electrics: check they all work including the hill decent control and rear door window

K series: if it's had the updated head gasket and the cause of the failure is cured ( from
experience a lot dont then wonder why it fails again) it should give plenty of good service if looked after

L series diesel (land rover) : 2 cambelts to change and can suffer from maff issues ( if it goes better
disconnected it usually means it duff )other than that service it and it will outlast the body

TD4(BMW) :
slightly more complex and with more complicated electronics but by no means not home serviceable, make sure both fuel pumps work

I'm sure others more
knowledgeable than myself will be along shortly to tell you to use the search function :D

 
Search, search again and then search. Read as much as possible. Then read the technical archive at the top of the page. Then to be doubly sure as it's your first one, put a thread up asking for someone in your area to come with you. Most peeps will come for the cost of a cup of tea and a bun, or a pack of beer:)
Most important in my opinion, if you walk up to it and it has mismatch tyres on...... walk away. And try and buy one from a 4x4 dealer who offers a warranty.
But as said, search, there's loads of threads about buying the various versions available.
Mike
 
The K series is a great car so long as your not towing and don't mind replacing the head gasket ever 40 - 60k miles. The issue was never fixed.
If you can do it yourself or have a good local mechanic then total cost of ownership is low even with the HG issue.
If you can't handle a spanner yourself and don't have a good mechanic then buy an XTrail
 
Thanks a lot for all the replies, I'm still looking and hoping to find something in the next couple of months.
I can fix a lot myself as I'm a marine engineer, just wan't to sure what I'd be looking at for the landrovers.
I've been looking through everything and really appreciate all the help everyone has given, so hopefully in the summer I'll have a Freelander.
 
Freelanders for the most part are not hard to work on (especially K series). I've done loads of bits and pieces to mine including head gasket, clutch, brake discs and pads, window regulators etc and and I'm just a self taught home mechanic. If your a marine engineer then they'll be a doddle to you.
 
L series diesel (land rover) : 2 cambelts to change and can suffer from maff issues ( if it goes better disconnected it usually means it duff )other than that service it and it will outlast the body

TD4(BMW) :
slightly more complex and with more complicated electronics but by no means not home serviceable, make sure both fuel pumps work
There's 3 belts on the L Series (cam belt, fuel pump belt and aux/'fan' belt) and its important that all 3 are changed at their service interval. Its also important that the tensioners/idlers are changed at the same time. The L Series is a great, simple, economical and reliable engine that will last 'for ever' - but if there's 1 thing that will kill them its a faulty aux/'fan' belt tensioner that will throw the belt which gets wrapped round the main crank pulley and takes out the cam belt - result trashed engine.
 
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