Buying a late RRC V8 with EAS...questions?

rrc eas is good..and reliable if serviced!!

but as it all is under the chassis.no one services it!!!hense it ****s up..

bags need changing every 5 yrs or so...but as they cost 36 a courner so what!

zen said:

rrc eas is good..and reliable if serviced!!

but as it all is under the chassis.no one services it!!!hense it ****s up..

bags need changing every 5 yrs or so...but as they cost 36 a courner so what!

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I'm gonna replace all 4 air springs and take the best ones that I take off along as spares.

Is there anything else I should service/replace on the EAS system? It all works fine at present, but obviously it'll get a lot more use/abuse in Morocco next year!

i'd suggest you renew the inlet filter and exhaust silencer and take with you a couple of height sensors. also maybe plumb in some manual bypass valves and carry a small 12v aux compressor. that and your spare airsprings will see you through 90% of whatever might happen. to go a step further replace all the o'rings at each connection, drain the receiver tank and replace desiccant in air dryer. step further overhaul the compressor. a step further still, overhaul the valve block.

rasheed said:

i'd suggest you renew the inlet filter and exhaust silencer and take with you a couple of height sensors. also maybe plumb in some manual bypass valves and carry a small 12v aux compressor. that and your spare airsprings will see you through 90% of whatever might happen. to go a step further replace all the o'rings at each connection, drain the receiver tank and replace desiccant in air dryer. step further overhaul the compressor. a step further still, overhaul the valve block.

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Thanks rasheed - you seem to know a lot about these. From time to time, and not all the time, the EAS compressor seems to be running for quite a while any ideas why that would be? As I said, its not all the time so don't think its a leak...

rasheed said:

i'd suggest you renew the inlet filter and exhaust silencer and take with you a couple of height sensors. also maybe plumb in some manual bypass valves and carry a small 12v aux compressor. that and your spare airsprings will see you through 90% of whatever might happen. to go a step further replace all the o'rings at each connection, drain the receiver tank and replace desiccant in air dryer. step further overhaul the compressor. a step further still, overhaul the valve block.

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I would not plumb in bypass valves, just one more place for a possible leak, instead carry a set of valves that fit the pipes and pop the pipes from the valve block and fit the valves in an emergency, £24 on Ebay or make your own. I would do all of the rest and also carry 5 metres of pipe and some couplers, very light, takes up little space.

Datatek said:

I would not plumb in bypass valves, just one more place for a possible leak, instead carry a set of valves that fit the pipes and pop the pipes from the valve block and fit the valves in an emergency, £24 on Ebay or make your own. I would do all of the rest and also carry 5 metres of pipe and some couplers, very light, takes up little space.

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OK, thanks Datatek. I was gonna PM you actually, does your software/lead combo work on Classic EAS or only on the P38's?

MikeV8SE said:

OK, thanks Datatek. I was gonna PM you actually, does your software/lead combo work on Classic EAS or only on the P38's?

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The RSW software for the EAS is I think available for the classic, have a look at www.rswsolutions.com Sorry the cable I do is P38 only, I could do them for the Classic but have no means of testing them.

Datatek said:

The RSW software for the EAS is I think available for the classic, have a look at www.rswsolutions.com Sorry the cable I do is P38 only, I could do them for the Classic but have no means of testing them.

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Thanks Datatek. Just been reading through their site and found this:

The Classic Range Rover EAS uses an identical EAS communications protocol to that of the P38 Range Rover. The same EASunlock software will work with the Classic Range Rover. The primary difference is the cable connector and the addition of some signaling transistors.

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Is this something you could produce?

that didnt work on mine..had to change the resistor to 5k..

MikeV8SE said:

Thanks Datatek. Just been reading through their site and found this:



Is this something you could produce?

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In theory yes, in practice no, as ZEN found dependent on the transistor it can be necessary to change component values to get the cable to work, I have no means to test the cable so it's not practical to make it.
Does the classic use the OBD II connector or some other type of connector?

MikeV8SE said:

Thanks rasheed - you seem to know a lot about these. From time to time, and not all the time, the EAS compressor seems to be running for quite a while any ideas why that would be? As I said, its not all the time so don't think its a leak...

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Nah, just what I've learned through trial and error with mine! The guys who seem to really know the EAS around here are Data and Wammers but the latter's being rather inexplicably coy about it of late.

The thing about the compressor is that it comes on when the system thinks there isn't enough air in the reservoir tank which acts as a buffer supply. Now when the system lowers a corner (for any reason) it does this by reducing the pressure in that bag but it doesn't take the air back to the tank, it exhausts it to the atmosphere through the dryer (to recharge the dessicant) and exhaust on valve block. Then when the system next needs to raise a corner it draws on air in the tank. This means the tank needs periodic replenishing which is when the compressor is run. If you think yours is working harder than it should either you're making your EAS work hard or its losing air from the tank or harness to and from (which won't behave like a normal leak, ie dumping a corner down on its bumpstops), or there may be a problem with the pressure switch which tells it how much air is in the tank. Don't know about the Classic but on the P38 there's an overheat protection circuit for the compressor which will stop it for about 180 seconds if it gets too hot. So if you notice the interval between the compressor being on repeatedly is exactly 3 minutes its likely that its the protection circuit kicking in rather than the pressure switch saying there's enough air in the tank. This then indicates a more thorough investigation. Even if that leads to a compressor or block overhaul it shouldn't alarm anyone as parts are now cheap and the job isn't difficult.

Datatek said:

I would not plumb in bypass valves, just one more place for a possible leak, instead carry a set of valves that fit the pipes and pop the pipes from the valve block and fit the valves in an emergency, £24 on Ebay or make your own. I would do all of the rest and also carry 5 metres of pipe and some couplers, very light, takes up little space.

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fair enough and good point about the extra pipe and couplers. my view on the bypass is if fitted correctly its no more prone to leaking than any other connection and saves yanking the pipes in and out of the valve block and risking scoring them etc.